Cracked Block

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Mar 15, 2004 | 05:28 PM

Winchester

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Joined: Dec 2003

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From: Saskatchewan

Cracked Block

Wondering if anybody has sucessfully repaired a cracked FE block. I've got about a 1" crack extending from a frost plug hole. It wasn't leaking when the engine was removed and I actually didn't know the crack was there untill it was magnifluxed.

I'm likely going to drill and tap the end of the crack and install a set screw. For the remainder of the crack I'm undecided about gouging it out and welding it or epoxying it. I've repaired a couple of small diesel blocks by pining and welding but not with the common 50% nickel rod, had to use 95% nickel otherwise the weld would crack as it cooled.

Just wondering if anyone has any advise they'd be willing to share.

Thanx in advance...

Mar 15, 2004 | 08:06 PM

78fordman

Cargo Master

Joined: Oct 2003

Posts: 2,833

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From: Jefferson, Iowa

brazing might be an option. Me and my ol man always fixed those old hit and miss engines with brazing it. Low heat and it holds pretty good.

Mar 15, 2004 | 08:32 PM

FERacing66

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Joined: Feb 2004

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From: Jackassville

fixing the crack sounds like a good idea, but have you looked into the price of a new block?

Mar 15, 2004 | 10:29 PM

Winchester

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From: Saskatchewan

I do have access to a couple other FE blocks but none of them are in as good condition as is this one (minus the crack of course!)

Mar 16, 2004 | 11:17 AM

scroob

Elder User

Joined: Sep 2003

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Is it one of the freeze plugs right where the motor mount is? If so, keep in mind that's where a lot of stress is.

Mar 16, 2004 | 11:31 AM

Big Orn

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Joined: Jun 2003

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From: NE Texas

Using High Nickel seems to be normal, but it's really bad in that area. High Nickel welding rods leave a hard spot in the gray cast iron and can cause it to crack even after peening. I don't have access to a book or internet article right now, but there are newer types of rods made just for engine blocks. They have a higher trensile strength and more elongation properties. There should be no reason why the block should not be just as strong after welding as before.
Try your local machine shops - I bet they've repaired many of them. And, if they're more advanced, they may even have a few rods on hand along with the procedures on how to use them.

Mar 16, 2004 | 01:30 PM

coupedeville

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Joined: Mar 2004

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You have three options.
1. Drill and tap the crack at its end, and install a steel screw with the appropriate sealer. Repeat all the way to the other end of the crack. Rod & Custom magazine rebuilt a flathead in the May '03 issue. It takes a few hours, but it's cheap and effective.
2. Instead of epoxy, there are special sealers made for the job, such as "Strong Steel Stick" and others which I had in the computer, but can't find. Damn!
3. This stuff called "Irontite Ceramic Motor Seal". You need to drill out the end of the crack to keep it from expanding, but then you add the Irontite to the cooling system, and it seals it from the inside.

Try here too, they specialize in crack repairs:
http://www.locknstitch.com/
Also look at :
http://www.highsidechem.com/redepxy.html
http://www.aremco.com/a15.html

Or PERMATEX Hi Temp. Metal Repair
Compound. Makes long-lasting repairs. Gets stronger with heat up to 2000°F. Should work on a block very nicely.

Last edited by coupedeville; Mar 16, 2004 at 01:57 PM.