Folks,

I like to change fluids fairly regularly on my 5 SP AUTO, 4.0 SOHC, 98 EXP.

Recently I was listening to a pretty good radio auto show. The host (an everyday mechanic) recommended flushing trans fluid by disonnecting the trans fluid cooling hoses, putting the OUT in an emply oil pan, and the IN in flesh fluid...then idling the vehicle to let the fluid simply circulate out the old and suck in new.

He recommended this rather than a flush (using those special machines) because it was a "gentler" process.

Has anyone used this dyi method before? and/or have advice concerning such? (btw...do the wheels have to be turning to circulate trans fluid?)

I would like to save the money and do it myself....and if it is as good or better...even more reason.

THANKS!

 

Yes, I've flushed my transmission im my Ranger this way. I marked a bucket at the gallon level, and would pump a gallon
at a time, then replace with a new gallon. After pumping out the 3rd gallon, I dropped the pan, and replaced the filter before putting the 3rd gallon back in. This minimizes the amout of ATF in the pan when dropping it, since it doesn't have a drain plug. I didn't have the rear wheels turning, but had the engine running with the transmission in drive.

 

Thanks for that info.

Were the In/Out hoses easy to find....and to indentify which is which?

...also...I am assuming that you just put on the emergency brake and chocked the wheels (w/it in drive)? and....did the fluid really gush out....or does each gallon take a while to pump out?

THANKS !

 

Actually, I had my wife putting it in drive, holding the brake,
and shutting it down when it had pumped out a gallon. I put both
lines into the bucket, not knowing which one would be under pressure. One line pumped a gallon in no time, and fluid just
dripped out of the other one....If you disconnect the metal lines
from the radiator, get some rubber hose to run from the metal lines into your bucket, it makes it a lot easier to work with.

Good Luck!!

 

Done it many times. Recommend you change the filter first since you will be pouring clean fluid into a dirty pan and sucking through a dirty filter. Don't know if it was clear but the transmission will not suck up fluid from the disconnected lines. One will pump fluid and the other will dribble. Do not recommend putting it in gear other than park and do not let the pan suck dry. Pan drop is about 4 quarts and suggest overfilling an extra 2 quarts. Transmission easily takes that and just pump out 3 quarts and refill. Around 15 quarts gets it clean. If high mileage and pan dirty, it will need another new filter in 6 months. New fluid will loosen up crud in tranny. Best filter you can buy is only $10 at www.bulkpart.com though you need to buy O rings and pan gasket seperately.

 

Here's my two cents.. I wanted to flush as much of the old fluid as possible so I did the 4 old quarts for 4 new quarts twice. Dumped the pan and changed the filter. Repeated the 4 old quarts for 4 new quarts one more time. ...thats about 12 qts of good flushing. So there's 12 new qts of the regular ATF fluid in the tranny, repeated this cycle and replaced 12 qts of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. It's a bit on the wasteful side but I didn't mind the $15 of extra cost at least I know I have good clean ATF fluid in the tranny. Synthetic ATF fluid makes the tranny shift much more reponsive and crisp without worrying about the fluid overheating especially with a ATF cooler.
Don't recommend the wife sitting in the car with the brakes on, especially if you have a life insurance policy that'll make her rich and run off with a younger dude.

 

as far as i know i used to work at jiffy lube and on the explorers the top line off of the radtor is the out and the botom was the return line but dont quate me on that

 

I've been thinking about this, and got an idea, so i will run it past you guys. Since fluid will have pressure in the return line, have that go into a bucket with a air tight lid. Make a line that goes from the top of one bucket to the top of another with a air tight lid.then make a line to the bottom of the second bucket. Put fresh fluid in the second bucket and have dirty in the first. Then when the first fills, will put air pressure in the second one, and with the pickup on the bottom will push fluid back up into the line. I know you would still have to add some when you are done because it would have to create pressure at the start, but with my 4R100 i think this would work. Any thoughts?

 

If you get a bladder water tank from a water well system, you will have what most flush places have. They monitor the pump pressure and when it spikes up, all the new fluid is gone. Transfering pressure by air will fail miserably because it compresses too easily. You won't be able to overcome gravity with the pressure developed. Just pumping it out is easy enough and nothing to store.

If you want to go Rube Goldberg, Put two buckets on the same side of a balance scale. Fill one with new fluid and the other gets old fluid dumped in it. Put a 12V bilge pump in the new fluid operated by a microswitch on the balance beam. Balance the beam with weights so the switch is off. As old fluid is pumped by the vehicle into the empty bucket it gets heavier and the switch turns on till enough fluid is pumped. This process keeps repeating till old fluid bucket is filled.

 

Thanks very much all. I think I understand the process.

The only part I need a little clarification on is an item that Opera House mentioned. Will a 6V bilge pump do? If so, I can just use the one from my boat.



.....actually.......I'm just joking....BUT...that R Goldberg rendition had me rolling )

Anyway....about the tranny drain. So...the system holds around 4 quarts in the pan? Is that why 4 quarts (1 gal) is used as a counter? And the fluid flow starts in the pan....through the tranny...then out the hose (which will be in the bucket)?

Assuming the above is accurate...will dropping the pan first (to replace the filter first) dump out most of the oil then (more than 4 quarts?)...or do the other 3 gallons stay up in the tranny system?

Assuming that is true....would it be good extra measure (consider that the filter may be dirty in a few months anyway) to also include a version of RD26's suggestion in the process and...:

- Drop Pan and replace w/ a "bargain brand" filter.
- Pump out old fluid...pump in some bargain brand atf (using 1 gallon at a time, etc, as suggested).
- Go drive 20 miles or so
- Repeat process but use a WIX or similar filter
- Clean the Pan real good
- Pump/Fill process using Mobil Synthetic ATF

....so....would running that new fluid 20 miles and replacing make for a Significantly better flush? If so.....I'll spend the extra $15 or so and make an afternoon of it.

OR....would it be just as good to do the above...but not drop the pan/filter the first time (b/c I'm just running the first replacement for 20 miles as a flush)?

OR....is the first part just overkill altogether?

THANKS ALL for the HELP

 

6V pump!!!! You must be an old boat guy. My oldest boat is a '37 and newest is '55. I converted them to 12V. The best filter you can buy is the SPX (Fords OEM supplier) from bulkpart. This works for the A4LD through the 5R55E. There are no cheap filters, all about $23 locally.

You are not going to clean anything in 20 miles. It wil take months for the impacted sludge to loosen up. I alwys throw a about 5 ceramic magnets in the pan. They always get a good coating of fuzz. You should consider an external spin on oil filter. Kits are about $30 but I just used an oil filter mount $12 and a FL1A.

 

Opera,

Ceramic magnets....hmmmm.....clever. Where would I get those....any particular size? ...and there's no danger of them bouncing loose {{{{PLANG!!---GRRRRRRR!...}}}} ?


So.....from my above post.....do I understand the basic's of fluid flow...etc...of the trans? Also....If I change the filter before draining any fluid....will that cause all 4 gallons to come out...or does 3 gallons remain suspended in the trans when the pan is dropped?

As far as the cleaning process....it sounds like just a filter change after 6 months will do. If I do drop the pan to just change the filter...then (I guess related to the above question)...I will only need to replace 4 quarts?

Thanks very much for your feedback.

 

You have never specified your transmission. Typicaly there is about 10 quarts of fluid. Dropping the pan will get out a little over 3 to 4 quarts depending how long you let it drip (it will drip out for weeks). The rest is stuck in the torque converter. The half that is below the TC shaft will never cone out. This is the reason the engine has to be running to check level. The old fluid can only be replaced by mixing new with the old. Some people are **** about getting all the old fluid out. The real problem is sediment. This is impacted metal and clutch material in the clutch packs and in the passages of the valve body. Varnish does not really form in the transmission like it does in an engine. Although they say it, flush machines can not get this sediment out. A TC can be cleaned by a machine if it is removed but it is still recommended that these be just replaced. Magnets can be bought at Radio Shack and there is no way that they can get up into the mechanicals. You will have a plastic sheet magnet in the pan that isn't very strong. New pan gaskets can often be reused if you are careful. So, you could drop the pan and reclean it once a month for a couple of months.

 

Well....I'm not sure of the exact trans model. However, it is a 5 speed automatic in a 4.0L SOHC 98 4x4.

When/if I periodically drop the pan to clean....will I always need to replace 3-4 quarts? I'm assuming that there is always that much in the pan.

 

Your transmission is a 5R55E and it will take the filter with the long pickup tube. Figuring 3.5 quarts eaxh time, after the first change there will be 35% new fluid, second change 58% new fluid, third 73% new fluid, fourth 83% new fluid. Those who flush with 15 quarts of new fluid will also get approximately the same number. Although, repeated changes will get actually more dirt out of the transmision than a flush.