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Are talking about the conversion kit which allows you to install adjustable RA on your engine? If so, yes it's as simple as it sounds. A few tips:
1. Be sure to clean the threads where the studs go in thoroughly. I would suggest squirting some solvent down them, blowing it out with compressed air, running a tap down them, another shot of solvent or Brake Kleen and then more compressed air.
2. Test fit each stud/guideplate assembly before applying the thread locking compound. Casting differences in the heads sometimes require you to flip the guideplates over in order for them to fit correctly.
3. Let the thread locking compound sit for several hours or overnight before installing the rockers.
4. If you're using the original or stock type head bolts install the heads first then install the kit. Otherwise you probably won't be able to fit the head bolts past the guide assemblies.
I wouldn't recommend using the kit if you're going to a roller cam or very heavy valve springs (>350 lbs.). I don't think the special studs would hold up well to spring pressures that high.
Last edited by Bill_Beyer; Mar 13, 2004 at 10:59 AM.
I am running the Crane kit on my 400. It is easy to install...follow the instructions and also what Mr Beyer has mentioned too. Might want to go to Sears (or your favorite tool supply store) and get yourself a 7/32 hex (allen) to put on a ratchet. Its easier than using an ordinary allen wrench. So far I have about 35k miles on my engine and valvetrain....so far so good.
Tighten adj. nut till pushrod spins with your fingers. Then tighten lock nut. Rockers will still wiggle, but that seems to be OK. Are you running roller rockers??
I never take anything for granted when building a engine. The last thing you want to do is throw good money after bad. I have never seen the crane set up, but if a pushrod passes through a guide plate you must use hardened push rods. Checking push rod length is very important after machine work,or changing valve train equipment. Larger cams usualy have a smaller base circle. Everything has a direct affect on length.
Some machine shops don't control stem heights. meaning they might sink one valve lower than another to clean up a seat. Now one stem heighth is higher or lower than another. Affecting push rod lenghth. You can face stems some to corect this problem,but not much. Most stock valve stems are hard faced and grinding eliminates this hardness. Be ware of one spring shimmed a lot more than another,thats proof that its sunk more than it's neighbors.
Its easy to check pushrod length,. Put checking springs on #1,put your head on with feeler gages under it to simulate head gasket thickness. Put valve train in and adjust pushrod until there is no slop. Turn crank and watch the rocker tip sweep the valve stem. It should start in at the top and stop before running off the edge. If it doesn't get an adjustible push rod and adjust it until it sweeps it perfectly. Then add mfgrs. recomended preload to the length you got and you've got your total length. They do make push rod length checking tools,but I have never used one.I just cut a chunk out of a stock one, taped both pieces and put a fine thread screw in with 2 jan nuts in it.