Should it be unplugged?
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Freshman User
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From: Rolla,MO
Should it be unplugged?
After reading several discussions on unplugging the wastegate on my 2000 6-spd psd I did it and have been running it that way for a while now, my boost shoots up very quickly , but when it gets above 30 lbs my service engine light comes on. I pull alot of big loads with my truck almost every day. It is my understanding that when the light comes on the computer tells the truck to start defueling, so in turn I guess I am really losing power. On long hill pulls it seems as if the truck does pull down quicker and I have to downshift. So should I plug my wastegate back in to make the truck pull harder for a longer period of time?
and Does the wastegate have any effect on the very loud and annoying flutter noise that I am getting from the turbo? I have a wicked wheel ordered- I hope that fixs the noise but man does it get loud when she is pulling hard. thanks for input JL
and Does the wastegate have any effect on the very loud and annoying flutter noise that I am getting from the turbo? I have a wicked wheel ordered- I hope that fixs the noise but man does it get loud when she is pulling hard. thanks for input JL
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Bonney Lake, WA
Another option would be to get a blow-off valve that fools your MAP sensor into thinking that you're only getting 22psi boost. You'll actually be getting full boost to the engine, but the pcm will be fooled into not defueling. It's part of a Powershot2000 propane system, but can be purchased separately.
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
It's more of a relief valve than a blow-off valve, but you are quite correct. Defeating the SES light is a much better alternative than hooking the stupid wastegate back up.
The mini-regulator works better than the relief valve in my experiance.
The wicked wheel will take care of the flutter you are hearing, but be aware of the fact thet the wicked wheel is also louder, as in higher pitched, than the stock wheel.
The mini-regulator works better than the relief valve in my experiance.
The wicked wheel will take care of the flutter you are hearing, but be aware of the fact thet the wicked wheel is also louder, as in higher pitched, than the stock wheel.
More Turbo
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From: Fairbanks, Alaska
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Freshman User
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From: Rolla,MO
Thanks Guys, How is the best way to get in contact with Dale at Tymar? I have got to get one of these "boost control valves". Where can I get some directions on how to install this? I do not have propane. (YET) Is this something a non-mechanic -myself- can install?
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Fairbanks, Alaska
Originally posted by JL-COWBOY
How is the best way to get in contact with Dale at Tymar?
How is the best way to get in contact with Dale at Tymar?
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Where can i get a mini-regulator to fool the MAP sensor and where exactly do I intall it?
http://www.itpdiesel.com/other/Overboost%20Kit%20Instructions.pdf
I have intentionally not hyperlinked the address because the FTE software was scrambling it up, copy and paste that address into a new window and it will work.
Last edited by cookie88; Mar 12, 2004 at 06:08 PM.
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Freshman User
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From: Rolla,MO
So if I trick the SES light from coming on the truck should not defuel so therefore on long hill pulls the truck should pull harder for farther distances.By grounding out the MAP sensor will that allow for this? This should let the truck boost higher for a longer period. thanks
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
JL, if you're wanting to go that route you should swing by Radio Shack and pick up a 4.7v Zener diode and ground the MAP through the diode. That way the MAP sensor will function normally right up to the point where it would normally defuel.
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Just strip a little bit of the cover off of the green/black wire near the MAP sensor and solder the banded end of the diode on. Solder the other end of the diode to a 15" piece of wire and run it to ground.
There is a bolt (10mm I think) up high on the firewall behind that MAP that works great. Put a medium sized ring terminal on the end of your ground wire and tighten it down. The whole thing takes about 10 minutes.
There is a bolt (10mm I think) up high on the firewall behind that MAP that works great. Put a medium sized ring terminal on the end of your ground wire and tighten it down. The whole thing takes about 10 minutes.
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Freshman User
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From: Rolla,MO
I stripped a little piece of the cover off of the green/black wire on the map sensor and ran a piece of wire to the bolt for a ground. But when I started the truck the SES light came on and stayed on. Any suggestions please
