starter not disengaging
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Joined: May 2003
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starter not disengaging
okay here's my problem, I have a '93 explorer 2wd and when i start it my starter remains engaged (horrible grinding noise). So far I have replaced the entire starter and also the starter relay on the left fender. I'm all out of ideas on what could be the problem so if you guys have any thoughts, please share. Thanks
Tyler
Tyler
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From: SoCal
I think jerkrules is right, sounds like a short in the ignition switch. Remove the small wire that just slips on & off from the starter relay, thats the wire from the ignition switch, if the starter stops cranking, replace the ignition switch.
Last edited by 87 XLT; Mar 11, 2004 at 12:06 AM.
Tuned
Joined: May 2003
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From: Southern IL
I have the same problem. Changed out three switches, checked adjustment several times on my head under the dash but, this 83 F250 of mine keeps starting in the run position and when I try moving the key back to get the starter to disengage, it shuts down. If I unhook the red wire to the Sol., put it in run, then touch it till it starts and pull it, all works fine. ?????? I don't know what's up with it tough....
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From: Pauline, South Carolina
Originally Posted by tysexplorer
It might be that but I'm not really sure. How can I check that?
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From: SoCal
The starter solenoid is part of the startr, the starter relay is mounted on the fender. Test at the starter RELAY as Jerry sez, and if theres voltage on that small wire with the key at run, either the ignition switch is bad or that wire is crossed with 12 volts somewhere.
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Tuned
Joined: May 2003
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From: Southern IL
83 F250 starts in run
I don't mean to seem like an idiot to you fellas and I know which one is which. I'm saying the one on my finder, relay, batt+ on one side, goes to starter on the other, with a red wire connected to the S terminal, nothing to the I terminal. There is 12V+ on that wire in the run position. Three new switches, I'm told by a mechanic that it's probably adjustment on the switch. I've checked all positions and they work with the exception of the 12v+ on S terminal continuously.
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Tuned
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 345
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From: Southern IL
Run the Sw all the way one way, get no start, other way you get no off or no acc. Put another new one in by the book. Key in lock pos. with key out. Sw in lock with small drill bit in the side to ensure, set the lash in the rod half way. Put everything back together, same thing. I should add that just before this problem, I had smoke in the dash, just above radio, and burned fusible link from Alt to relay. Now, the seat belt light stays on no matter what too. Multimeter quit on me the other day and going to get another tomorrow.
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From: SoCal
If it's an auto trans and you shift to reverse then turn the key to run, does it still crank? Or if manual does it still crank when your foot is not on the clutch?
Last edited by 87 XLT; Jul 31, 2004 at 01:14 AM.
Tuned
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 345
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From: Southern IL
Start safety switch was bypassed long ago cause I was to lazy to adjust it. Mechanic pal of mine says to pull the switch and move it by hand to verify that it actually is working properly. I know I saw smoke for a few seconds just above the radio right before the fusible link to the Alt. blew out. Still, there's 12V+ or nearly at the S terminal in the run position. I'm thinking it's either the switch or the control module. Thanks for any and all help....... It's needed......
I've got the diagram for the Duraspark II out and checked but in the run position, how much Voltage should be on the S terminal? I don't know but would think that it should be lower than 12v until the key is turned to the start position, at which time the then 12v should activate the starter relay and allow the voltage to pass to the starter. Clues, ideas, checks???? I guess I could have a crossed wire from the fire in the dash like 87XLT says. I've tore into it and so far, can't even find a clue as to what burned. I'm starting to think it might have been inside the radio...
I've got the diagram for the Duraspark II out and checked but in the run position, how much Voltage should be on the S terminal? I don't know but would think that it should be lower than 12v until the key is turned to the start position, at which time the then 12v should activate the starter relay and allow the voltage to pass to the starter. Clues, ideas, checks???? I guess I could have a crossed wire from the fire in the dash like 87XLT says. I've tore into it and so far, can't even find a clue as to what burned. I'm starting to think it might have been inside the radio...
Last edited by Chiefrider007; Jul 31, 2004 at 01:35 AM. Reason: Added text
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From: SoCal
I'd try removing the bypass from the start safety switch & see if it still cranks. Heres a guy that had a problem like this & how he solved it. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=257962 Should be zero volts on the S terminal until you turn the key to start then should be 12 volts.
Last edited by 87 XLT; Jul 31, 2004 at 02:21 AM.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: SoCal
What i'm saying is to open the circuit at the start safety switch so that you will know if the problem is between there & the starter relay or between there & the ignition switch. Good luck with it.
Tuned
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 345
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From: Southern IL
I think I got it. Rule out what you can. I have to narrow it down somehow, right. Thanks a bunch and I hope I can get her working right again... I forgot to mention that it also drained my battery when all this started. I've replaced it as well....