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Old Mar 8, 2004 | 07:41 PM
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I'm back. Acceleration issues.

Well, the motor is fine (except for an oil leak that I think is coming from the head at #4). I've got 45 psi at cold idle and runs at 40-50 at rpm. I'm happy. BUT in first and second it accelerate fine, when I shift into 3rd I've got a hard miss. It doesn't matter how fast I rev it in 2nd, it misses in 3rd. I've been playing with the timing and fuel mixture and got it this far but I'm thinking it should miss in the other gears also, unless it is and I'm not catching it. Any takers?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2004 | 07:58 PM
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Is there any smoke? I think you are idling a little low at 50 RPM though, maybe 500 is what you ment.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2004 | 08:19 PM
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Hi, my name is Wallace and I'm stupid.
Hi, Wallace
I meant psi. Oil pressure is what I meant, I had oil pressure issues for about a week and fixed that. Now I can't accelerate like I should.
Once today it backfired through the carb and I glanced in the rear view mirror and there was some white smoke. I think that was timing and I believe I've got that fixed. I'm running an Edelbrock 600 and getting the fuel mixture is a bit**. I can't figure out why it lugs when I'm gearing up.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 12:38 AM
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From: yes
does it happen when you go from third to second or does it only happen after you've been accelerating for a while, such as a issue with your fuel system not keeping up with demand, clogged fuel filter, pinched fuel line or such
 
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 07:47 AM
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only from second to third. Honestly I think I'm being impatient. I'm adjusting the fuel mix every time I drive it and it's getting better. I think it's just starving for gas and I need to get meticulous with the carb. This is all a learning process for me.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 10:31 PM
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If you are adjusting the two front screws...all you are adjusting is the idle mixture. That's all those two screws do. The only way to adjust otherwise is to select smaller/larger jets and/or metering rods for your power curve. These carbs are real simple and usually easy to work with.

Good luck with it...

 
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 10:43 PM
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What kind of carb?

-Scouder
 
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Old Mar 10, 2004 | 08:03 AM
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Edelbrock 600
 
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Old Mar 10, 2004 | 08:15 AM
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This is my first project truck and so far, with everybody's help, it's been a school of hard knocks and patience. I'm getting a grip on the carb thing. I'm driving and adjusting the upper side mixture, driving and adjusting, driving adjusting, if you get the picture. It's all coming together. I need to get a tach so I can really follow Edelbrock's manual with this carb on tuning it.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2004 | 12:40 PM
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That's the big thing with Ebok carbs...they are TOO adjustable. With a Holley, a jet change and MAYBE a power valve and your good.

Ebok has jets and metering rods and if you adjust one it will throw in more variables.

Larry
 
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Old Mar 10, 2004 | 06:51 PM
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Here's another question. I was talking with this guy today who used to have some old Fords and he said that I may have a cam that is not enough for my engine/carb combo. He suggested my getting a "bigger" cam to give me more power. I'm running a standard cam right now and it's brand new. Any relevance to that?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2004 | 06:57 PM
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Well, biger the cam up goes your power band for the most part. Those 4x4 and towing cams are better than stock, same power band and more power, but once you start getting into bigger cams, your power band moves up. Not a bad thing, just keep that in mind.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2004 | 07:42 PM
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As long as he didn't say that the smaller cam was causing the problem you describe. A small cam will run fine, it will just stop making power before you expect it to. If you need more upper end power/rpm then a bigger cam is how you get it. The tradeoff is that sliding your powerband up the scale slides it away from the low end, meaning that your off-idle performance can suffer, along with gas mileage. Now on the other hand, if you have a crank with more stroke, like a 428 or a stroker like Gtex has, then you can use a bigger cam (within reason) without fear of hurting low end performance because the crank itself creates enough torque to overcome it. General rule of thumb, the bigger the engine, the harder it is to overcam.

-Scouder
 
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Old Mar 10, 2004 | 09:37 PM
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Originally posted by debestuss
Here's another question. I was talking with this guy today who used to have some old Fords and he said that I may have a cam that is not enough for my engine/carb combo. He suggested my getting a "bigger" cam to give me more power. I'm running a standard cam right now and it's brand new. Any relevance to that?

That's actually funny! If it weren't so un-true. Wow...can't believe someone would point you in that direction. Ok...a stock 390FE (cubic inches is the key) is just about perfect for a 600cfm carb.

It is a little hard to adjust the Edelbrock without knowing your idle rpm. So a rpm tool or tach will be your best option here. With the carb out of the box, you install and set the idle rpm to what you desire. Now assuming the truck starts <grin>...what is next is adjusting the idle mixture screws. All this adjusts is the amount of air that entires. More air less gas. Start with the left screw (your left looking at carb from front) and then move to the right screw. Now re-check your idle rpm. Do it again...if needed. I would say that you will not need to even think of re-jetting. However, you may think about calibrating the metering rods...or the set-up springs. Edelbrock has kits that really help a lot.

Good luck...

 
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 07:13 PM
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Okay, I won't worry about the cam right now. Two questions now
1) will aftermarket intake and carb affect the timing, should it be closer to TDC?
2) I run a 14x2 air cleaner. Is bigger better, should I try for, let's say, 6" thick?
 
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