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Hey Guys,
I just recently replaced my old 2 barrel carb for a rebuilt Holley and I have a miss at high rpm's free rev'ing or when under load (driving). I had to move somethings around on top of the motor to accomodate the way the fuel line comes into the Holley and I removed the coil where the old owner put it on the intake. I mistakenly switched the + and - wires going to the coil and when I found what I did I changed them back (atleast I think that they are right now). What wire goes to the coil negative post, is it the wire from the points? I'm pretty sure that I have it correct if it's supposed to be that way.
Did I fry out the condensor/points or even the coil by having the wires reversed?
Not really sure why it would hurt the coil. If either the coil or condensor were hurt, I don't think it would run at all.
Does it miss at idle? or only higher up?
I know it may be a pain, but you find out that it might be the carb. I know how those rebuild Holleys run sometimes. You may want to bolt the old Autolite on and see how it runs. If it improves, then you know it's the carb. If not, then you know it's ignition related.
Did you happen to switch some wires on the cap by mistake??
Larry
Last edited by Freightrain; Mar 8, 2004 at 02:48 PM.
I got this carb because my original carb was leaking very badly and after a rebuild it was even worse. I searched high and low for a replacement carb and either I didn't get one because they were taking forever to get it from the parts store (they even lost my order somehow) or when I got the carb I couldn't get a manual choke (only heat or electric) and after trying to swap over my choke linkages from the old carb to the new they weren't compatible enough.
I did a little research on the Holleys and they seemed like a good carb to slap on the 302 that I have. After I swapped it over, it seemed to idle OK but when putting a load on it, the miss would occur at higher RPM's. I thought that maybe I fried something (either partially if not all the way) when I had the wires on the coil reversed. Putting the old carb back on really isn't a problem but it won't idle at all and it leaks badly, I'm about ready to throw a match on the whole thing because I haven't been able to drive it since the original carb went south 4 weeks ago.
Well I went and looked at the carb again and it appears that it was not getting enough gas. I adjusted the float level (wet) to what was recommended and the miss is gone but now i have another problem with it. The fuel filter will go dry and then it starts to sputter (under load) like it's going to run out of gas. I posted another thread in the carb section and I'm waiting to see what I get for responses over there. If it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have any luck at all I guess.
shoulda asked around I have a brand new Motorcraft i was running on my 69' for about 2-3 hours ran great and it manual choke...lol...too bad.....what motor are you running and have you checked your fuel pump even if it pumping fuel the filter thing(if it that type) coule be gummy......we will see...keep us posted...
This probably won't help you now, but I have had to take the accelerator pump housing and lap it out on a nice flat surface with a sheet of emory or good wet/dry sandpaper about 200 grit or so. Those things are prone to warpage and you can't stop the leak until they are flat again.
By the way, stay as far away from over the counter rebuilt carbs as possible. They are almost always junk and especially if they came from Holley. Even if you know absolutly nothing about carbs you have a better chance of rebuilding your own than you do of buying a rebuilt that will bolt on and go.
Last edited by willowbilly3; Mar 9, 2004 at 01:14 AM.
Originally posted by MudinMan19704x4 shoulda asked around I have a brand new Motorcraft i was running on my 69' for about 2-3 hours ran great and it manual choke...lol...too bad.....what motor are you running and have you checked your fuel pump even if it pumping fuel the filter thing(if it that type) coule be gummy......we will see...keep us posted...
I'm running a 302 and I replaced the fuel filter twice thinking there was something wrong with the first one. The pump is new also and only replaced it because it looked really old and I though that it might not have the pressure to run the Holley. I checked into getting a fuel pressure gauge first but I was quoted around $50 for the gauge and I thought that it was a better investment to get the new fuel pump at $35 instead. If you still have the carb you talked about I might be interested if this Holley doesn't pan out.
If you are loosing fuel pressure, check your rubber hoses. ALL/BOTH of them. They may be sucking closed from the pump, which in turn shuts off the fuel. There is only the two short pieces(one under cab, the other at pump), I would replace them if they look a bit old.
I just wanted to let everyone know that was helping me out that I finally got the truck running with the Holley carb. After going to another speed shop, I got a different 1" spacer for the carb (I didn't like the ford original one), got a rebuild kit and replaced the float bowl needle and nylon washers to seal it up, clear sight screw and bolted it all in. I couldn't get the engine to start so I pulled all the spark plugs and found they were badly gas fouled. I swapped them all out and the truck fired off like it should. I got the truck on level ground and adjusted the float till it just barely comes out the hole when I rocked it side to side and set the timing to help with the better gas flow I'm getting from the carb. It's still a little rich and trying to adjust the air/gas metering screws doesn't help it all that much but I'm pleased so far with the throttle response that it has. Tomorrow I'm changing the oil because I bet that it's got alot of gas in it.
You guys came up with alot of ideas to help me out and I'm grateful for all the help you guys threw my way. The next thing that I need to get is the pertronix kit and the coil so that I can get it running even better.