my truck is running very roughly.also the carb is leaking gas on the side by the choke cable.on a scale of one to ten,how would you rate the difficulty of reuilding a factory 2 barrel carb.also do any of you have instructions or diagrams you could send me on doing this.i could get this done for under 100.00 anywhere around town,but would really like to try it on my own.thanks for all your help

 

If you have the ford carburetor, they are quite simple to rebuild, not many parts to replace, an old chilton's manual has a good exploded view of this carb, I have a copy, but no scanner to send it, however if you are leaking fuel,you might check if your float bowl is overflowing, also check for vacuum leaks.

 

what would cause the float bowl to overflow my engine was recently rebuilt and the guy said that he built the carb.it never leaked until he got his hands on it .the old chilton manuals run about fifty dollars.i do plan to buy one,but i`ve put so much into my truck lately i can`t afford it right now .so if one of you guys could scan it and e-mail it to me i would really appreciate it.

 

Just finished rehab of 2-bbl carb on my '66 352. A carburetor "tuneup kit" was $16 at the local auto parts. The process was pretty simple; I used a copy machine to make an enlargement of the exploded view that comes in the kit, which made it easier to follow. However, I got one of the original rubber parts into the parts cleaner, which softened it up beyond further use. Then found out that part was not in the kit. So, instead of going back for a "seals kit" for the carb, I'm making a homemade replacement. While the carb's not back on the engine yet, the job was not complicated, and I'm confident. Take more time reading the instructions first than I did; all will be well.

 

The two barrel Ford and Holley units are pretty smooth, mostly cleaning, inspection and replacing a few parts. They ship with decent enough directions. Setting up the carb for just the right "shot" of fuel at the accelerator pump, float level set, idle jets and away ya go. Can be done with a vaccuum gage well enough.

 

As suggested get a rebuild kit at the local parts store, they come with a picture & clear instructions. I have rebuilt several 4 BBL's besides 1 and 2 BBL's & there is no problem if u are mechanically inclined, have an organized work area & take ur time. I have never adjusted linkages when rebuilding carbs; if it ain't broke ,don't fix it! Also pick up a can of Carburetor Parts Cleaner so u can dip the parts to clean them up. Float Level is the critical adjustment & i always have set it so the float rides 1/64 or 1/32 lower than the specs call for without problems. If float level is set too high, gas overflows. After running car look into the carb throat with engine off to see if any gas is dripping from the nozzles. Sometimes easy to move the Float level adjustment when assemblying it together.

 

after rereading my previous post, it could get confusing about the Float Level position. Best for a newbie to set it according to specs. I meant to communicate that the float should ride lower in the float bowl when on the car. Could get very confusing when the adjustments are made in the inverted position when rebuilding. I am sorry for the confusion.

 

Just rebuilt the holly 2 bbl on my 66 f350. For $16.95 my truck runs great, finally! Easy job, just be organised.

 

The carb itself is pretty basic and you should had an easy go at it if you follow a few guidelines.
1. Purchase your kit, carb cleaner, and a few shop rags.
2. You will need 2 flat blade screwdrivers (3/16 tip should be sufficient for screws, 5/16 for the needle/seat assy)
3. Some clean paper and a pencil.
4. Start by drawing a rough picture of the carb on your paper. Be sure to note screw positions.
5. When removing the screws, poke the screw through the paper in it's corresponding position.
6. Follow the diagram in the picture to remove any linkages, screws, bolts, etc.
7. Do not remove the butterflies or Choke shaft onless absolutley necessary because the screws are staked and removing them usually damages the shaft.
8. Be sure to clean all parts completely, blow out all passages with compressed air.
9. Replace the needle and seat, Install the float. Make sure to measure the float drop so that dimension is as close to the spec as possible.
10. Reassemble the carb.
If your choke is automatic, set the pot on center since you can adjust this later.

It all should go real easy, I just recommend you clean it and replace the two items I mentioned above and you will be able to adjust the carb and make it run smooth.