help with 460 performance?... new here
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,922
Likes: 153
Dude this thread is nearly ancient, I'd think he has long since moved on. Can you elaborate on "doing a little oil control" ? An Edelbrock Performer isn't really much better than a stock square bore 4v manifold. If your going to use a hydro cam try Lunati #96, I used to have one in my big block and I really liked it. 5/16 push rods will work just fine for a hydro cam. There is no reason to change to 3/8 unless you are going to run some sort of a solid roller. It's important to get the pistons up in the bore as close to zero as possible, depending on the piston they could be way down in the hole. Figure on decking it, balancing it too. You are probably using D3's ? You will need to trim the guides down some so the retainers don't hit them. You are going to have to mill drill & tap the heads for studs and guide plates or use a retro kit. I wouln't recomend those kits if a solid is going to be used. You might as well cut the seats for spring seat cups and PC seals while your at it and put in some bigger valves. I think your times might be a little optimistic with what little you have told us of your build.
New User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
as for the oiling control all im doing is porting some of the ports in the head and block so i can get a better oil flow, going to open them up a little. and the eld performer rpm is a better of the intakes as far as the performer series. unless u know of a better one. im running 33 in tall drag slicks that my uncle gave me. so i wont have a traction problem, but for the push rods. my uncle bent one of his 5/16 on his 460 so im going to go 3/8 just for good measures. i allready know bout the rocker studs, and i allready have them inserted, like i said ive done alot of reserch lol, but im definatly interested in what everyone has to say so opinions and ideas would be great
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,922
Likes: 153
As far as oiling goes, enlarging, chamfering and polishing ports should be approached carefully. If you aren't sure how much you can go safely, be conservative. I would drill in drain back holes in the front of the blocks lifter valley on each side. Be careful on the left side, you have to drill it at a compound angle to get through "safely". You might want to also do the dist gear oil mod as well, you drill through from the front cam bearing to the botom of the dist gear, you can find instructions on this at 460ford.com.
Have you considered a Weiand Stealth ? The Edelbrock air gap rpm manifold is probably just as good, but I'm no Edelbrock fan.
There is no reason for a push rod to bend if the valve train geometry was thought out carefully and set up correctly. You will need to be running a custom length push rod. Big block valve trains can be bullet proof, but you need to think it through, experiment, mock up, check fit, operation, etc. and get the right parts for your build.
Have you considered a Weiand Stealth ? The Edelbrock air gap rpm manifold is probably just as good, but I'm no Edelbrock fan.
There is no reason for a push rod to bend if the valve train geometry was thought out carefully and set up correctly. You will need to be running a custom length push rod. Big block valve trains can be bullet proof, but you need to think it through, experiment, mock up, check fit, operation, etc. and get the right parts for your build.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Quickdraw514
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
Nov 21, 2014 11:29 PM
76Highboy4x460
Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460)
16
Feb 11, 2004 11:43 PM
1 Big Mike
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
10
Oct 28, 2002 08:05 PM
