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cannot reinstall distributor - 351m

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Old Mar 8, 2004 | 11:54 AM
  #16  
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78custom
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From: columbia
That Primer tube is the most evil of all engine parts. It took me three days to get it back n to the pump.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2004 | 09:35 PM
  #17  
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We got it in! But still got no spark. After 6 days and many swear words I got it running today after completely rewiring the ignition system from the firewall forward. I still need to find out why the red wire to the duraspark module is grounding out, but until then I'll leave it disconnected. Is ford wiring from the '70's notoriously bad or something? When I went to the auto electric store today everyone gave me a sympathetic "ooooohhh" when I told them what I was doing. Next I'll attack the lighting system to try and get the headlights to stop flickering. Should be fun, I'll allow a couple of weeks for that project, and about 4000000000 feet of multi-colored wire. Thanks for your help everyone,

Shawn
 
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 03:22 AM
  #18  
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Double your wire order...

These trucks are VERY OLD!!! The wiring system was designed to last 5 years or so...

The two power wires to the Duraspark module provide power either in start or run. In start mode the spark is retarded ~20 degrees for easier hot starts. Both are required to operate properly. Did you get the module tested at the parts store?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 08:28 AM
  #19  
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The module is new from the parts store. I've had them test several of the modules out of this thing in the hopes that they'd find something wrong, but the previous owner completely messed up the wiring under the dash and bypassed the red wire altogether. The white wire is constantly hot, so the car runs without the red wire connected but starting can take forever because it doesn't alter the timing while in the crank position. I think the guy bridged the 'crank' circuitry and the 'run' and bypassed the resistor wire. I could be wrong, but voltage to the coil is closer to 12VDC than 9VDC no matter whether cranking or running. Oh, and with the red wire connected the timing is more aggressive on starts, but it wont stay started. It sounds like it's going to run so you let off the key and it immediately dies when it goes into the 'run' position. I also found that there is continuity between that red wire and ground, so that could be the problem. I would really like to get this thing to run like it did when it was new, but these electrical problems are tough.

Shawn
 
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 05:32 PM
  #20  
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grclark351
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From: chicago burbs
the duraspark uses a separate power source for crank and run, you guessed it, red and white. one is crank, one is run, from the ignition switch.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2004 | 02:39 AM
  #21  
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Torque1st
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Yank ALL of that extra wire and get your OEM harness fixed or replaced. Those haywire messes are a fire looking for a time to happen.
 
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