Time to remove engine ... but how?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 119
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From: Southeast Tennessee
Time to remove engine ... but how?
I'm ready to pull the 302 and C4 out of the Joadmobile - I've removed all of the front end stuff. I have the 4000 lb engine hoist in the garage and ready. However, as the only engine I've ever removed was from a '72 VW Beetle, what do I do now? Specifically, to where do I secure the chain to the block before I hoist? Any helpful hints from those who have been there would be appreciated.
On another note, there are two hoses going from the engine to the passenger side of the firewall. They are about the size of garden hoses. What are these? I don't have A/C.
On another note, there are two hoses going from the engine to the passenger side of the firewall. They are about the size of garden hoses. What are these? I don't have A/C.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
Those should be you heater hoses. Disconnect them at the engine/manifold.
keep in mind, your hoist is probably only 1000lbs at full extension. Still plenty for a 302/C4 combo.
Have you considered a carb-plate hoist attachment? It's probably the easiest.
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...14&prmenbr=361
Coming out with the tranny is a bit of a challenge. having some buddies around is the best plan of attack. I reccomend seperating the engine and tranny in the truck. Of course my experience is with FE motors and C6 transmissions (both heavy by comparison to your 302/C4).
keep in mind, your hoist is probably only 1000lbs at full extension. Still plenty for a 302/C4 combo.
Have you considered a carb-plate hoist attachment? It's probably the easiest.
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...14&prmenbr=361
Coming out with the tranny is a bit of a challenge. having some buddies around is the best plan of attack. I reccomend seperating the engine and tranny in the truck. Of course my experience is with FE motors and C6 transmissions (both heavy by comparison to your 302/C4).
Last edited by gtex; Mar 1, 2004 at 02:59 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 940
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From: LAT 46.55501° & LON -122
If you are talking about pulling the engine/tranny as a combo, you are going to need a little more rigging than just the carb plate to keep the engine from tilting up on you. Preferably something easily adjustable like a turnbuckle or block and tackle that reaches from the tip of the hoist to somewhere on the tranny toward the back.
Is the intake even strong enough to hold both items at once using a carb plate?
Is the intake even strong enough to hold both items at once using a carb plate?
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: burlington, iowa
make sure you remove the entire front clip before you try and pull the motor, only 12 bolts and comes out in 45 minuites
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 184
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From: pasadena tx.
engine removal
If you dont know what the heater hoses are or even a clue were to put the chain to pull the motor, i feel you don't have a clue on how to pull this engine out.
You can't be going to this site with simple questions on this type of project, you are going to get hurt or hurt some one else YOU need to pay someone to do this.
You can't be going to this site with simple questions on this type of project, you are going to get hurt or hurt some one else YOU need to pay someone to do this.
Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: N. CAL
What does a complete 390 FE motor (block, heads, inlet & exhaust manifolds) weigh? What about a C6 transmission? I'm going to be pulling an engine & C6 (separately by the way) from a donor 72 F250 truck next weekend. Eastwood (one of the FTE advertisers) sells the carb plates as well "Engine Lifting Plate Item No. - 46077". Think I'll give that a try. They also have an "Engine Lift Brackets One Pair Item No. - 46120"
Any tips (bolt order, tools needed, etc.) for separating the auto tranny from the block would be appreciated. Hoping not to "reinvent the wheel." Thanks.
Any tips (bolt order, tools needed, etc.) for separating the auto tranny from the block would be appreciated. Hoping not to "reinvent the wheel." Thanks.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 119
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From: Southeast Tennessee
That is what I ended up doing, since the C4 came out with the engine. We used one of those load leveling bars with an adjustable hook point and had zero trouble. Pics will be added to the forum soon. Thanks for all the help, except for you xlt70black. I don't know you from Adam and yet you feel the need to be a jerk to someone who has worked on air-cooled VW's all his life and has no experience with engines that have radiators. Since when can I not ask a simple message on this site - did I miss that rule in the FAQ? Keep your flame messages to yourself, please.
Last edited by joadmobile; Mar 15, 2004 at 01:19 PM.
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
yeah Joad nothing wrong with doing it the first time, go for it. The engine/tranny assembly is long, you'll have to be ready to deal with that. And that front crossmember? Consider removing the front clip, that was a hot tip. Anyway, all big stubborn american iron, tame it.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 480
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, Ohio
Proper lift points on the engine is relevant question. Engine only or combo with trans. How to do it without damage and with safety. I am going to do a 302/c4 this spring and but have pulled many GM car engines:Chev 283,327,307, 409 Olds 391. Never hurts to check and gain benefit of others experience. Glad you asked and got an answer; so I won't have to be humiliated for asking the same thing.