Time to remove engine ... but how?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Tennessee
RainbowATF, file this away - use 7/16 bolts for the removal. The hole is just under 1" deep so I bought 4 2" Grade 8 bolts(probably overkill) and had no trouble at all, except that one hole was smaller than the others. I checked it again after the engine came out and sure enough, the one hole wouldn't take a 7/16. Maybe it was filled with gunk, but I couldn't even get it started. It was the hole on the rear of the engine, just to the right of center (if you are looking at the engine from the fan, as you would when it is in the engine compartment). I can send you an exact pic if you like, the engine is on the stand now.
On the other hand, maybe something weird was done to my engine in its 33 years of life. Oh yeah, the leveler I used was great - nothing bound and I kept it level very easily.
On the other hand, maybe something weird was done to my engine in its 33 years of life. Oh yeah, the leveler I used was great - nothing bound and I kept it level very easily.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
From: burlington, iowa
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...oid=38619&.jpg
wow i thought my engine was dirty.
i spent 3 hours with a tooth brush after this photo cleaning it up and installing my chrome valve covers.
wow i thought my engine was dirty.
i spent 3 hours with a tooth brush after this photo cleaning it up and installing my chrome valve covers.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 480
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, Ohio
Joadmobile; thanks for the tip. I'm a female who owns a 1979 F100 Truck I bought from my cousin (female also) for $350 and put another $200 into tuning and emissions and passed Ohio E-check. My engine has 140p +/- 5p of compression on all cylinders and I measure vacuum at 22 inches at idle. My dad helps alot and has the experience as the hot rodder/racer ca 60-70s. Several gasket oil leaks. I plan on automotive career and vocational school starting after high school. Thanks again.
Last edited by rainbowATF; Mar 15, 2004 at 10:35 PM.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Tennessee
No problem, rainbowATF. E-mail me off list if I can do anything else. Like I said, I worked on a '72 VW Superbeetle daily driver for 12 years, from when I was 17 to last year. This is my first American project and so far it is way, way better. I used to have to lift the car over the engine once the engine was on the ground! 
This is going to be a big hobby/learning experience for me.
This is going to be a big hobby/learning experience for me.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
joadmobile,
Since you have the engine out, can I suggest something?
If you have the money, replace all the body and radiator mounts now, since if they are original they will need it. A nice set of poly will only cost $80 and it will never be an easier time then now.
With the engine out and the clip off the front it will be much easier to do and if your radiator support is rotted this will be the easiest time to get some angle steel under it and to replace the rubber mounts.
What makes it easier is you can jack up the body off the frame and stick 2x4s across the frame rails since the engine and transmission will not be in the way and all the linkage is disconnected.
It is one of those things you do not think about until after you get the engine/trans back in.
Since you have the engine out, can I suggest something?
If you have the money, replace all the body and radiator mounts now, since if they are original they will need it. A nice set of poly will only cost $80 and it will never be an easier time then now.
With the engine out and the clip off the front it will be much easier to do and if your radiator support is rotted this will be the easiest time to get some angle steel under it and to replace the rubber mounts.
What makes it easier is you can jack up the body off the frame and stick 2x4s across the frame rails since the engine and transmission will not be in the way and all the linkage is disconnected.
It is one of those things you do not think about until after you get the engine/trans back in.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Tennessee
Rebo, I am going to do more than that. Check my gallery and you'll see a complete F100 1971 4X4 frame with front discs, an aux tank peeking up from the truck bed that will replace the in cab tank, and a filthy 302 that is most likely going to be replaced with a 351W crate engine. Ambitious? Undoubtedly. Am I insane? Certainly. The next step will be to bring the 4x4 frame into the garage and start blasting. You wouldn't know the best way to adapt a C4 to a transfer case (I'm thinking Dana 20) where there used to be a 390, NP435 and Dana 21 would you? I know a tranny shop will have to change the tailhousing and output shaft, but what else? I do NOT want a manual trans and I'd like to keep the C4 as it is in pretty good shape, oil stains aside.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
From: pasadena tx.
Looks like your engine removal is a success i don't know what the flame message means i'm just an old 44 year old ive been told mean ol p---k it's just that when you read these type questions it scares me to think i might see these type of stories on rescue 911 rebocardo brings up a good point now would be the time to change these mounts. Hey they are very pricey but advanced adapters is a quality manufactor of good products you want have to worry about them failing on you. Hey why not a c6 it's going to be tougher since your adapting these smallblock c6's are in just about every 80's vans behind 302's & 351's had to stop on my 70 xlt to redo my house first just needspaint & body work wich takes time & patience so house first.So peace joadmobile ive been workin a lot of overtime at work this is were i responded from so you know what work will do to peoples thoughts so sorry dude keep the forum posted on progress [ps. didn't pay much attention to spelling and punctuation in school either]
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
From: burlington, iowa
i just pulled my tranny and engine today, i took them out as one unit, started at 9:39 am, had the front clip complety off by 10:07am had engine out and on the stand and tranny in the corner at 11:58 am. Tools all put away shop swept and eating KFC on the picnic table with my wife at 12:10. whew thats enough for one day tommorow i strip the engine and see all the damage.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Tennessee
Thanks for the message, XLT. I'll try not to get my feathers all ruffled anymore. My C4 was rebuilt a couple of years ago so I'd like to stay with it, plus it loses less HP to friction than any other Ford transmission.
New User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
1990 302 engine replacement
I've been reading this thread and have a question. Is it easier to remove the engine and transmission together or just the engine? I've got mine ready to pull (was planning to do it this evening), and was planning on just pulling the engine (based on the procedures in the Haynes engine rebuild manual).
New User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: richmond virginia
1970 engine removal
um i have a 1970 f250 with a 240 and a manual transmission in it and id like to put a 302 with an automatic and some other stuff like disc power breaks and power steering any help with any of this would be greaghtly appreasiated but the real question for this is when changing the engine what wil i need to change and move and can i use the same length driveshaft
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 1
From: seattle us
Originally Posted by joadmobile
You wouldn't know the best way to adapt a C4 to a transfer case (I'm thinking Dana 20) where there used to be a 390, NP435 and Dana 21 would you? I know a tranny shop will have to change the tailhousing and output shaft, but what else? I do NOT want a manual trans and I'd like to keep the C4 as it is in pretty good shape, oil stains aside.
New User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: richmond virginia
any answers?
Originally Posted by sanchezz834
um i have a 1970 f250 with a 240 and a manual transmission in it and id like to put a 302 with an automatic and some other stuff like disc power breaks and power steering any help with any of this would be greaghtly appreasiated but the real question for this is when changing the engine what wil i need to change and move and can i use the same length driveshaft
