94 explorer problems
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94 explorer problems
The other day i changed the oil, oil filter, plugs, plug wires, and air filter. And cleaned off the throttle plate. Ever since then the check engine light has been coming on about 15 seconds after it is started. I went to auto zone and they ran the codes it said bad tps sensor. i removed the sensor and auto zone tested it and said there was nothing wrong with it.
when it starts the idle is around 1000 rpms. but right when the light comes on the rps drop to 600 and it begins to idle really rough. Also the fuel economy has gotten worse. taking about twice the gas. When i get out of the car i can smell a "gas" like smell.
While driving it runs "normal" except at intersections when i stop and its just sitting idle.
The MAF and the TPS sensor were replaced about 4 years ago too.
If anyone could help i would apericate it.
thanks!
when it starts the idle is around 1000 rpms. but right when the light comes on the rps drop to 600 and it begins to idle really rough. Also the fuel economy has gotten worse. taking about twice the gas. When i get out of the car i can smell a "gas" like smell.
While driving it runs "normal" except at intersections when i stop and its just sitting idle.
The MAF and the TPS sensor were replaced about 4 years ago too.
If anyone could help i would apericate it.
thanks!
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From: CT
Sounds like IAC problem. Check this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=166103
Your IAC is on the left side of the upper intake so don't let the pics throw you off.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=166103
Your IAC is on the left side of the upper intake so don't let the pics throw you off.
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I forgot to put in the orginal post that its burning ALOT of fuel gone 40 miles and burt 3/8ths of a tank.... normaly go about 300 miles on a full tank. I'm thinking it might be a bad o2 sensor. gonna check it tommrow
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From: UT
What were the actual codes? What portion of the test (KOEO, KOER, or continuous memory)? If they didn't give them to you, you can retrieve them yourself with nothing more than a paper clip. See www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html
I would definitely check/clean the IAC. Maybe clean the MAF.
I would definitely check/clean the IAC. Maybe clean the MAF.
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wires were done one at a time and braided properly. vacum pressure is good. Replaced the o2 sensor and the problem still presists. Tested and cleaned the IAC its working properly.
The maf is fine as well. Also rececked TPS and it was fine.
The maf is fine as well. Also rececked TPS and it was fine.
Posting Guru
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From: Baltimore
Make sure all the vacuum lines are attached to the vacuum tree located on the rear of the passenger side of the engine.
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Worked on it some more today. Replaced another o2 sensor that i missed the first time.
and replaced the positive battery terminal (it was almost coared through)
Problem still presists.
Check the vacum pressure again it about 25 psi and didnt spike or drop at all.
few nights back cleaned and checked the IAC it fine
ran the codes again...
got TPS voltage to low and Maf voltage to low or inconsistant with tps..
Im begenning to think my tps really is shot
and replaced the positive battery terminal (it was almost coared through)
Problem still presists.
Check the vacum pressure again it about 25 psi and didnt spike or drop at all.
few nights back cleaned and checked the IAC it fine
ran the codes again...
got TPS voltage to low and Maf voltage to low or inconsistant with tps..
Im begenning to think my tps really is shot
Postmaster
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From: UT
What codes are you getting? Are they KOEO, continuous memory, or KOER codes?
Not sure how you checked vacuum, but it's technically impossible to get a 25 psi vacuum. A perfect vacuum at sea level would read ~14.7 psi.
Not sure how you checked vacuum, but it's technically impossible to get a 25 psi vacuum. A perfect vacuum at sea level would read ~14.7 psi.
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I've experienced pretty much these same symptoms on my 93 XLT Explorer. The only exception is that the only codes it gave me were that the MAF voltage was low (nothing else meaningful, anyways.)
And I tried everything - I cleaned the MAF, checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned other sensors, etc. I followed the recommended book procedures (and even invented a few of my own) all along convinced that it couldn't possibly be the MAF. It turned out to be a bad MAF. I replaced it - the 'last' thing on my list, and all problems went away.
So - I guess don't discount a bad MAF in your search. I've replaced it now twice - the second one after only two years. Same symptoms - this time a quicker resolution. ;-)
Eric
And I tried everything - I cleaned the MAF, checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned other sensors, etc. I followed the recommended book procedures (and even invented a few of my own) all along convinced that it couldn't possibly be the MAF. It turned out to be a bad MAF. I replaced it - the 'last' thing on my list, and all problems went away.
So - I guess don't discount a bad MAF in your search. I've replaced it now twice - the second one after only two years. Same symptoms - this time a quicker resolution. ;-)
Eric
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Oh - and the bad smell, high fuel consumption, etc. I think Ford calls that 'limp home' mode. With a problem like this, the mixture goes to full rich all the time, since the computer is no longer able to calculate the proper mixture.
Eric
Eric
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got home from a freinds house and wrote my last reply. and i was wrong on the vacum thing. the gauge was reading about 18psi... i was reading it up side down 
When i left for work and started the car the light never came on and it ran perfectly fine the whole way to and from work. Leading me to belive that it was infact the + battery cable that was the problem
When i left for work and started the car the light never came on and it ran perfectly fine the whole way to and from work. Leading me to belive that it was infact the + battery cable that was the problem
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