When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This weekend I tried to rotate the tires on my 1999 F250 Super Duty. I was unable to remove the wheels. The wheels are aluminum, the wheels appeared to be bonded to the hub and maybe the face of the brake rotor. This is the case for both the front and back wheels. I have tried rust penetratant, (10lb) hammer and block of wood. Has any one out there had this problem? Any tips on how to remove the wheels?
I had the same trouble on mine
I ended up tapping on the backside of the wheel with a sledge hammer,
a rubber face deadblow hammer would work better without marring the wheel
then after you do get them off clean the corrosion up and put antiseize on the center of the hub where the wheel goes over it and you shouldnt have any more problems
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 11-Oct-01 AT 11:17 AM (EST)[/font][p]Ditto what red99sdv10 said. These wheels are hub centered (big hole in the center of the wheel), so that's where they'll stick.
----------------------------------------
2000 F350 CC DRW Lariat 4x4 LWB 4R100 V10 4.30ls with Torklift tie-downs/Superhitch and Rancho RS9000 and Ride-Rite air springs.
1998 Alpenlite Pendelton 11'10" Slide-in camper with all options.
I have had the same problems too. I put antiseize on the two mating surfaces. The electronics industry also makes a compound that is similiar to this also if you should happen to work in this area.
Best advice to anyone that has aluminum wheels on a superduty is to remove them immediately, if it's not already too late and apply some kind of high temp grease between the wheel center and the center of the disk.
I ended up squeeling the tires around the neighborhood streets for a good fifteen minutes (with wheelnuts only fingertight) before they let go. Tire rotations should not take 2 hrs.
Yep, I had the same problem. I tried everything I could think of to get them off and in the end, name calling and beating the living shyte out of them was the only thing that seemed to work. As I recall sitting down and kicking them from the inside out seemed to work the best. Just be careful not to kick it off the jack or jack stands. As others mentioned, make sure you load it up with some anti-seize after you get them off.
I wonder if enviroment has something to do with this. I've been rotating my tires every 5k since new(74k now) and have never had this problem. It is pretty dry here in AZ.
I think you are right about the environment having an effect. I live near Toronto and unfortunately our vehicles are exposed to an incredible amount of road salt from Dec to Mar every year. Of course I could probably helped myself if I hadn't waited till the truck had 30,000 km / 18,750 miles (I think that's right) on it before I rotated the tires.
I'm going to remove my wheels to do a little cleaning up after some 4x4'ing (see other post this forum), and ould like to do some preventative maintenance.
>Can anybody recommend an anti-seize compound?
>
>I'm going to remove my wheels to do a little cleaning up
>after some 4x4'ing (see other post this forum), and ould
>like to do some preventative maintenance.
>
>-Steve
Same problem, live between Toronto and Detroit so I feel our acid rain adds to concern (from high sulphur coal used in power plants).
I got mine off with all nuts backed off 2-3 threads then turn tight circles and hit the brakes. Fronts easier than rear.
Scrape off the corrosion and put a very light smear of good high temp anti-sieze on the center opening, I also put a light film on mating surface around the stud holes. I stress light film, I brush it on and wipe off most of it. One application is all you need.
We use the Fel-Pro brand at work, and it works pretty good (I work at a chemical plant in a powerhouse) but you need to make sure it's compatible with aluminum.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.