Aftermarket CD player???
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: At home...
Aftermarket CD player???
Do any of you know what the deal is with the 95 Explorer "Limited" that would in-able me to put a aftermarket CD player in? I spend the previous evening screwing around with it.. and to be honest... I'm lost? Is there something I'm missing here that Ford does different? I can get the CD player it self to power up and function fine.. but no sound? I'm assuming it has something to do with the "factory sub" in the rear.. From what I can gather from my limited time with this vehical (Not mine, roommates..) The amp that runs the sub must power the rest of the speakers? That would make sence?... But at the sametime, according to my knowledge of radios, all I'd need to do is turn that amp on?.... I have had others tell me that the vehical needs to be completely re-wired, I'm looking for a second opinion!?
Anyway, sorry for the ramble, but I need help from you FORD guys... This has me stumped?
Thanks guys!
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: TX
try this web site www.crutchfield.com
they have a wire harness for the powered sub depending on the aftermarket player you have.
they have a wire harness for the powered sub depending on the aftermarket player you have.
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From: At home...
Thanks,
I did a little more thinking on this... and I wonder if the factory amp is getting to much power to turn on. I'm sure with a "factory" system that they would use a very low current... The aftermarket player might be over powering?
Thanks... I'll check it out!
I did a little more thinking on this... and I wonder if the factory amp is getting to much power to turn on. I'm sure with a "factory" system that they would use a very low current... The aftermarket player might be over powering?
Thanks... I'll check it out!
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: TX
it wouldnt be too much power to the amp, if you r going to keep the original speakers, crutchfield also has these speaker caps that lower the frequency and power going to the speakers due to the higher wattage an aftermarket player has, it also prevents distortion. its best to talk to a live tech, they have more answers then to search on their website.
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From: At home...
Talked with a guy and he says you need to buy a new harness that by-passes the rear amp... The whole harness kit costs $22.00..
BUT!... you have to pull the rear panel off to put the harness in. Which could make for a process!, But he said that is what the problem is. The factory amp only works with the factory deck...
Anyway, after screwing around with all this, we should be up and running by Wednesday evening! Thanks for your help!
Drew
BUT!... you have to pull the rear panel off to put the harness in. Which could make for a process!, But he said that is what the problem is. The factory amp only works with the factory deck...
Anyway, after screwing around with all this, we should be up and running by Wednesday evening! Thanks for your help!
Drew
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The $22 harness you're talking about is an amp bypass harness. Use it and you'll lose the use of your factory sub. You can get the correct harness that will let you integrate your factory amps and speakers with an aftermarket head unit for around $50 from Crutchfield. Plus you won't have to pull that panel in the cargo area.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: montreal
the factory amp can't be connected to an after market head unit... so I had to re-wire and get around the is... ford reall screws you when it comes to changing the sound system...
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Georgia
thats not true. any good after market can accept the correct harness. there are two different harnesses for the explorer one for the jbl and one without the jbl system. I had to go that route myself
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The part number for the adapter from Crutchfield is Item #142C4FDK5. Take a look at it on their website. This will let you keep your factory amps and speakers, including your factory sub. Quick, neat install with no hacked wiring. This is the proper adapter if you have JBL audio.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Los Angeles, CA
The guy who told you
"Talked with a guy and he says you need to buy a new harness that by-passes the rear amp"
is full of crapola! I have a Kenwood deck with 10 disk changer and the JBL system with sub. You need a deck with preamp outs, usually a set of four (R/L/Rr/Fr) and u send that back to the amp. The amp only powers the sub from my understanding, not the whole speaker set. You need to send a non-powered out to the amp.
LEt me know if you are confused.
"Talked with a guy and he says you need to buy a new harness that by-passes the rear amp"
is full of crapola! I have a Kenwood deck with 10 disk changer and the JBL system with sub. You need a deck with preamp outs, usually a set of four (R/L/Rr/Fr) and u send that back to the amp. The amp only powers the sub from my understanding, not the whole speaker set. You need to send a non-powered out to the amp.
LEt me know if you are confused.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Georgia
Actually there is a preamp with a built in crossover that supports all the door speeakers. The sub has its own little amp. Buy the crutchfield harness and the job is quick, easy and painless. The audio stores in your area should also have the harness. there should be no need for RCAs if you keep all the factory equipment.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: North East
NO NO NO
no this is how the system works
the stock deck puts out a preamp signal out that goes to the speaker amps in the back and the get boosted up and goes to the speakers so if you hook up the new deck and use the preamp line outs it will work but you have to use a kit that allows you to use the deck without cuting the wire harness bc the addapter will have the remote line on it and it goes to the remote on the am deck i belive soul97 and LACityFD were on to this thier are 2 amps in the back one for sub and one for 4 speakers
i hope this helps
the stock deck puts out a preamp signal out that goes to the speaker amps in the back and the get boosted up and goes to the speakers so if you hook up the new deck and use the preamp line outs it will work but you have to use a kit that allows you to use the deck without cuting the wire harness bc the addapter will have the remote line on it and it goes to the remote on the am deck i belive soul97 and LACityFD were on to this thier are 2 amps in the back one for sub and one for 4 speakers
i hope this helps
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From: At home...
Well... here's what I found.
Turns out that with the JBL system, if the speakers are 3 ohm, it's no problem, "BUT" with the 4 ohm "Explorer Limited" systems, an aftermarket player is not adaptable.. I'd need to re-wire the entire system. Including new speakers..
Personally sounds extremely stupid to me, but whatever.
Never heard of something so crazy!
Turns out that with the JBL system, if the speakers are 3 ohm, it's no problem, "BUT" with the 4 ohm "Explorer Limited" systems, an aftermarket player is not adaptable.. I'd need to re-wire the entire system. Including new speakers..
Personally sounds extremely stupid to me, but whatever.
Never heard of something so crazy!
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 79
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From: Georgia
Where did you find out this info. That sounds very odd to me man. The only part that i can see a problem is getting the music source for the sub. I thought the pre amp would handle that. I have taken the preamp and sub out of my 97 mountaineer and it all looks pretty straight forward from all the other stereo installs I have done. You should only need your source, being the new head unit, the preamp should take care of the rest. I have not added a non factory stereo to mine yet. I would still try the harness and see what happens.
Good luck, let me know if you need any help
Good luck, let me know if you need any help