I have a 1984 F250, with a 460. I tried to cross reference the only numbers I found on the carb, at an auto parts store, and came up with nothing. How can I tell what I have. It is the original I think, and says Holley for Motorcraft on the carb body, but I can see no numbers. It is a 4 barrel.

 

On holley carbs, the numbers are found on the air horn on the drivers side. The part that sticks up in front of the choke should have some numbers on it. I don't know though, where the Ford part numbers are.

 

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Its a 4180.

Holley made it for Motorcraft. Its an emission carb, not a performance carb.

I have read that it shares little with it near cousin the 4160 Holley.

 

Any opinions on a better choice for general use, if I were to switch this carb out?

 

The carb you have as you decribe it is a 4180 600 CFM built for Ford used on the mustangs and trucks. The number at the parts house will be under Motorcraft as mentioned above. If the Motorcraft Tag is gone then take all the numbers off the air horn and you should beable to find a kit but hold on because they run around $100.00

I'm a die hard Holley guy and I replaced my 4180 with a 4160 Hi Pro bought from JEGS. I get 9-13 MPG and I don't seem to be holding up traffic here in Sin City. Hope this helps E-mail me if you need any other help. Kermmydog

 

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I too replaced mine with a 4160 600 cfm Holley. It was a direct swap in my case. I have also used an Edelbrock 1411 750cfm on it too.

I think the Edelbrock runs smoother on the 460, there again thats in my case.

 

Thanks for all the help. If a re-build is about 100.00, for the difference in price, would I be gaining anything by swapping to a 4160? I don't want to get into changing manifolds etc, but prefer to keep my cost down. However, if I can buy a new carb relatively inexpensively, then I would rather save myself some time, if it will give me any gain. Can you explain why you switched to the 4160, and what you notice vs. running the stock 4180?

 

i would go for the new carb if you can afford it, just because its brand new. the plates wont be warped, it has many recent redesigns, and you wont have to get in there and clean it up. I am all for rebuilding wha tyou have, but a new carb will be nicer for a daily driver, IMHO. just my 2 cents

 

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I had re-built the 4180 it did not really respond to it. It ran like crap before and after. About the only it did alright was idle. Stomp it and it would fall on its face and sometimes even die. I think it was just good and wore out. I have re-built untold carbs and never had the problem with it not being better afterward.

The 4160 Holley, when you stomp it the tires go up in smoke, thats the difference in performance.

No need to swap the intake for either carburetor. The Holley is a more direct swap. The Edelbrock bolts right on too, but you need and adapter for the automatic trans kick down linkage.

 

The Holley 4160 from Jegs $239 with electric choke maybe $259 anyway the Edelbrock is the same price and if you have a auto trans you need to buy the adp. seperate for $20 Holley has the Ford Kickdown already on. I fact if you have an Auto Zone near they offer good prices on both.

 

Thanks, but here is another problem. I called the Holley company, and was told that if I put on a 4160, that it would not hook up correctly to my emissions equipment. I just bought a re-build kit and was going that route. Is this correct?

 

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Unless emissions are an issue where you are, its not a big deal.

I'm thinking on the 79 E250 van I got my 460 from all it had different was the hoses from the canister that fastened to each end of the fuel bowl. Everthing else just pretty much plugged to the same places.

 

F250sc i have the same year truck with the same engine you do mines a XLT but i dont think it matters mines also a HD truck so it dosent have a cat from factory just a air pump i have the holley 4180 carb on my truck and it was giving me problems to was idleing rich and i was about fed up with it but it did pass smog in california with a blowen power valve! LOL but barley but thats when i first got the truck so i ddint tear into it right away but the sputtering idle and strong smell of gas and black smoke billowing out got on my nerves so i got a complete master rebuild kit from napa for 70 dollars and rebuild the entire thing including changing out the old power valve as that was the problem the truck had 121,000 when i got it and the engine is new but the carb was off the old block and had never been touched anyway i tore into the old one and rebuild it cleaned it all up with cans of carb cleaner which i was told to do from a guy off here used a tooth brush and 2 cans of carb cleaner and got it spotless and then rebuild it with all the new parts seals gaskets o rings needles and seats power valve all of it and now it runs excellent i really dont see a problem with the the holley 4180 when its working correctly my truck needs to be pumped in the moring when cold to stay running before its fired up or it will die right away but i got it in the summer and when its not dropping to 10 degrees and what not in the moring and at night fires right up with out the choke so all i do is pump it a few times in the moring get the choke on and the accelorater priming it with fuel and starts right up once its warmed up it runs fantastic and driving at about 60 MPH at 2500 RPMS as thats what mine tachs at in 4th gear i am getting 15 MPH of course mines 2 wheel drive as well and this is on flat to semi flat ground now because i put the trip milage speedo and tach out of a XLT bronco in my truck im able to find that out and i thought that was pretty good for being such a big engine this sof course is unlaoded as well so in my opion id rebuild what you got take the time to clean it to i had mine totally apart and sprayed and scrubed it with a tooth brush and made sure it was spot less and cleaned the parts again by rinsing them one last time before i assembled it again paying attention to how it went back together of course take the time and clean it up then once you get it on id turn all 4 air screws out 4 full turns and adjust each float bowls level and then adjust the idle screw mixtures till you get the smoothest idle what i do is go to the back of my exhaust pipe and listen since i dont have a vacum gauge to test it i listen for a miss or sputter sound from it i got mine to where it just idles smooth and sounds good aftering messing with it for awhile i think i got all my air screws out about 5 turns anyway thats what id do i was gonna just replace my carb to but first decided to give it a second chance and so far its been worth it and i rebuild it about a month ago good luck with your truck