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1976 F250 4x4..360 manual..pd 375.00--restorable shape but needs box and it seems quite beastly has holley carb..edelbrock manifold-stamped "390"?..headers and huge axles...
my boys are handlin this for me -as i severly cut my hand recently-anyway i have faith they can handle???????but it is our first time "inside" a motor
throwout bearing was shot and motor had slight knock--seemed to be in bottom end? didnt want to blow er up so we
pulled motor yesterday-put on stand-pulled pan..crank is stamped 2TA which im told means 360 motor
con rods appear sloppy on crank??
and when we "bump-turn" motor back n forth --twisting the har. balancer..theres a couple of rods that seem 'sloppy' on the wrist pins..on these the pistons dont move in the cylinder at all during this 'sloppy' movement
we are wondering if the knock wasnt actually from the wrist pins??..if it is will we have to replace pistons or just the pins?
really would appreciate some help here..
for right now we need to get truck runnin for a job coming up-and i would rather not put a bunch of money into it just yet till we get better familiar with it... if truck pans out i will put money into it cause i do like the rig..how do i find out more about truck-like size axles/diff and tranfer case?
also-my son did find a new crank and bearings on ebay--#2460828833
for 150.00 where as if we have to get crank ground and new bearings ive been quoted 245.00-265.00..should i get this?do i need it tho?
not to get off main subject-but whats all invovled in turning into 390 and whats the gain?should i consider this?
thanks ahead of time!!!!
The knock could be anything. It really doesn't matter as you definitely need a rebuild. I once had a 360 that had a damper key wear down and the damper would move around on the crank. You might be seeing the same thing here. A rod that is knocking would still likely have so little clearance you would need a mic to tell. You can easily turn a 360 into a 390. All you need to do is get a 390 crank, rods and pistons. That's all there is to it!
Model Year: 76
Series: F250 - 4x4 Pickup
Engine: 8 Cyl, 360ci, 2bbl
Assembly Plant: Ontario Truck
Transmission: 4 spd, Manual, New Process 435
Front Axle: w/P.S. D44HD or D60 axle
Rear Axle: 4.10 Limited Slip, 5200lb Dana 60
The T-case i'm not sure, could be D20, NP205, or NP203
NP205 shift pattern
4L
N
2HI
4HI
NP203 shift pattern
lock
low
N
high
lock
theres another one of them weird DSO codes. most are only two numbers.
Last edited by F150daniel; Feb 22, 2004 at 05:03 PM.
If you've got that much slop in the wrist pins and con rods to crank, that you can see it, you're headed for a rebuild. Period. Disconnect accessories, carb and transmission, pull engine, do not pass go, do not collect $200.
If you'd like questions answered about rebuilding, or performance, just ask.
if i have to rebuild then we are going to have to do it ourselves as much possible
i WILL DEFINETLY need and appreciate any help along the way...
from what ive been told so far about 360 to 390 cu
ill most likely go to 390 as i sometimes haul alot weight and occasionally pull heavy trailer ..we work in the forests of northern wisconsin and deal with changing terrain as well..
think its time to get a book--any recomends??
hey rusty--how do i acquire your offered help--cant post my email here
Last edited by fishinnutinwis; Feb 23, 2004 at 10:34 AM.
Yes! "How to rebuild Big Block Fords" by Steve Christ is an excellent manual/guide. You can buy it from the online store here for about the same price as samazon books the last time I checked.
hey ratsmoker--i looked at that-(details)-but it doesnt seem to cover the 360/390..do you know for fact that book covers my motor well enough to guide me thru the rebuild??
is the 360 considered a big block??
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