When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm too old and thick headed to trust the electric stuff, which is why the cable actuated ox always appealed to me. But, like Ryan heard, ox sucks.......I'd never buy anything of theirs.
I too have heard bad things about the OX locker though nothing solid or first hand. I had such high hopes too...
"bah.. the welded diffs don't turn that bad offroad.. "
I disagree and think it would be dangerous to drive welded on the street. It won't hurt your drivetrain going straight, but turning will put a lot of strain on things when you turn on pavement. You will not have much control for turns and curves.
That's what I was afriad of, I think I could handle it in town, but would probably snap either the pass. or driver side U-joint. Down the highway on a curve or passing someone I'd imagine I'd get some terriable viberation.
Originally posted by proeliator I'm too old and thick headed to trust the electric stuff, which is why the cable actuated ox always appealed to me. But, like Ryan heard, ox sucks.......I'd never buy anything of theirs.
I'm glad MI is so far away. I'd already be out in the garage sticking that in my Bronco . . . I guess it was good luck it was that far away instead of bad!
yeah, in the front they are bad news, but I'm a firm believer in never running in 4wd in the winter anyways, it just doesn't handle right, and you have no control should you enter a slide.
Rear on the other hand, I've spent many winters in MI and MN with a spool, and would take it over anything else, hands down, it's just more predictible than a locker or open diff.
as for that dana 44 for sale, I would be on that thing in a heart beat, but I'm sure it's in the wrong half of michigan(troll land, not yooperland)
BTW, I think it's funny how everyone Tells ME how bad a spool will handle, as if I have never driven one before..lol
ive had to limp home from fishy's house in front wheel drive before....and im welded up front....it aint scary(non winter weather) but your turning radius sucks.
if you ride down the road in 4x4or with the hubs locked alot, i wouldnt weld the front
off road....i love it....dont get me wrong...i would take a selectable or maybe even a detroit over it any day, but right now my money is better spent elsewhere and for my application, the advangtages far outweigh the disadvantages
first a welded diff can never be beat in terms of price and reliability! But once you do it you cannot go back!
electric/vaccum operated lockers sticks, rocks, and other such enemies can always grab an electric line or air hose and rip it off, but the convenience of a push buttton is very appealing
cable actuated locker never had one or had any experience with one but it sounds like they aren't worth it and they are a lil pricey! Plus the cable could possibly break
and finally, load sensitive types of lockers (Detroit NoSpin) which is the strongest b/c it is a hunk of metal, nothing to snag or break (w/o a helluva lot of force!) and extremely reliable. They are a lil pricey but when taxes come in I will have one with a new gear set!
I have an Eaton ELocker in my rear diff. The harness runs along with the ABS harness from the top of the housing. I rip it out and I have bigger problems. Drive shaft, brake lines, fuel lines . . .
What if you have a welded front diff and you only lock one hub, would that work ok on the street for snow/ice conditions, turning radius etc., and then when you go off road you can lock in the other hub when or before you get stuck. It sounds feasable, not trying to contradict anyone, just wondering if it could work?
that's what Ho and i do.....it helps the turning radius by literal feet but i would never ever drive it on the road with the front locked in and welded. if you only have one locked in and you go to hit the gas (not even hard) it jerks you to the side, and when you let off it jerks you the other way. i had to drive with my front hub (1) locked in when I exploded 2 rear u-joints and i was skeered to hit anyting above 35!
I lock one hub in until it starts to get a hairy, then it's ***** to the walls when i lock the other. Usually I lock the pass side first since it's further away so all i have to do is jump out and lock the drivers side. Makes it a lot easier with no doors too