removing the knuckle?
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From: Del Rio, Texas USA
removing the knuckle?
guys just about to dive into my Xover steering and custom Relocation project.. just wanted to know from those who have.. the joints holding the knuckle on.. are those going to "pop" out.. or are they going to have to be "pressed" out of the knuckle?.. thanks
Rob.
Rob.
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Hi Rob
When you take the two nuts off the knuckle goes downward with a rap of a rubber hammer. To take the joints out of the knuckle is a different story they need to be pressed in and out with a ball joint press.
Dick
https://www.ford-trucks.com/contents...20Installation
When you take the two nuts off the knuckle goes downward with a rap of a rubber hammer. To take the joints out of the knuckle is a different story they need to be pressed in and out with a ball joint press.
Dick
https://www.ford-trucks.com/contents...20Installation
Last edited by 99f350sd; Feb 19, 2004 at 09:55 PM.
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Posting Guru
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From: Del Rio, Texas USA
dick, thanks man! just the link i needed.. thats awsome.. sounds like this job aint happening in my garage.. will be heading down to my favorite USAF auto hobby shop! you know! they got many a presses of all sizes!
thanks again Dick!
JJ
thanks again Dick!
JJ
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: central california
Dick
that link is for a 1999 f 250 and I have a 1992 f250 Is the brake down pretty much the same . Im going to be replacing ball joints tie rod ends wheel bearings and wheel & axel joints are their any other parts I need That I have not listed for this job?
Thanks
that link is for a 1999 f 250 and I have a 1992 f250 Is the brake down pretty much the same . Im going to be replacing ball joints tie rod ends wheel bearings and wheel & axel joints are their any other parts I need That I have not listed for this job?
Thanks
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: CA Desert
I'm just about finished with my upper and lower Ball-joint replacement. I ran into the following problems: The website instructions don't tell you about the upper ball-joint sleeve that you have to take out first. I used a hammer to vibrate it upward. Hit it (knuckle) left, right, left, etc. The retaining nuts on the ball joints had to be grinded off due to rust, and when replacing the lower ball-joint self-locking retaining nut, the ball-joint spins while you try to fasten the nut.... I bought a regular nut instead. It was a real pain in the **** for me, a person with limited mech skills and tools. Barrowed most from AZ. Bought Moogs at CarQuest, cheaper than AZ's brand and both had lifetime warrantee. Finishing up tonight.
RedCrewCab4x4
RedCrewCab4x4
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Sounds good...My sleeve stayed in place...the joint came out of it.
The article said to put a jack under the knuckle to get upward pressure to tighten the nut. I didn't have any trouble...Sounds like you had lotsa rust. I thought nothing rusts out where you are I'm the one who should have all the rust...
The article said to put a jack under the knuckle to get upward pressure to tighten the nut. I didn't have any trouble...Sounds like you had lotsa rust. I thought nothing rusts out where you are I'm the one who should have all the rust...
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Joe Kucinski
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: CA Desert
You're right 99F350sd, I did buy the truck preowned and believe it came from Nebraska or somewhere there. My first vacuum I recall much corn under the door trim. Either way, these trucks are surely built "SuperDuty". Didn't see the jack advice, thanks.
RedCrewCab4x4
RedCrewCab4x4