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Old Feb 13, 2004 | 12:35 PM
  #1  
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Angry zapped stator#3

HHEELLPP! My 84xlt 300 6cyl keeps blowing the stators on 3 straight rebuilt alts. I've checked for shorts,none. I've put differant regulators on.bought a new batt. new cables.cleaned up corrosion on reg. plug. Was told that the ignition module might be problem but i don't see how that can be, because the truck starts and runs fine there's no batt. drain. the problem is there's no output coming from the alt. the original system had 167000 on it before it quit with nary a problem till alt gave out. Now i got another alt. and reg, but am afraid to install them till i figure out if its somthig in the truck doing it to the stators or just bad luck rebuilds. I thought the reg. was supposed to protect the alt. and wiring? What i really can't figure is why only the stators and not the more sensitive diodes? anybody got any ideas??
 
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Old Feb 13, 2004 | 01:11 PM
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I am not sure exactly the set-up in the alt, as far as the different sections and such, but Ford usually hooks the "sta" terminal to the choke on the carb with a white/black wire. Is this wire in good shape? The only thing it's for is the choke, unless you have a truck with an idiot light system instead of guages.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2004 | 01:21 PM
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yes the wire is in good shape,and thats the correct setup stator to electric choke. Irecently had carb rebuilt and choke rehooked up. before i just left choke wire off,do you think the electric choke would cause the stator to go bad? would a shorted choke show up doing the test for shorts at batt.?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2004 | 01:32 PM
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oh yeah one other thing i've got an ampmeter gauge that appears to not be working,hell i don't think it ever did. Do you think that has anything to do with the problem? Hey franklin I see your from Staunton are you familiar with the Victory garage in Weyers Cave?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2004 | 01:53 PM
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The stator is the fixed windings that don't rotate. Are you saying that it is going open? The stator terminal is at 1/2 the alternator output voltage. The regulator only controls the current going to the field terminal. The field terminal goes to the rotor winding via the slip rings. More current to the field means a higher alternator output voltage.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2004 | 02:08 PM
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yes after bench testing with ohm meter st=grd,grd-st,batt-st,st-batt. its supposed to be 6-6.5 in one direction 0 in the other,i got o in all directions meaning open terminal inside alt.I'm trying to figure if i did it or did i get 2 bad alts in a row.and is my reg still ok.#3 alt was tested at store before i left it said good.but when i ohm tested it i got same results as above,what gives?I retested all wires indivigually no shorts good grounds new batt-fully charged. So I guess I'll reinstall alt and see what happens.this time I'm going to leave choke wire off stator. I thought maybe I got a bad electric choke causing stator problems? My ampmeter gauge does'nt work either never did? If i had a shorted cell in the previous batt could that cause my problem?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2004 | 02:18 PM
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reg.test

can I test an external reg. off a 84 xlt 300 6 with a multi=meter.advance does'nt test the,anybody know who does? If i got to hook the system back up to test it and its bad will it hurt the new alt?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2004 | 03:50 PM
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Are you sure you meter is working? Are you using a needle type meter or a digital meter? On a needle type of ohmmeter 0 is indicated when the needle swings all the way over when doing the test. This would indicate a short not an open like you said. An open is indicated when the needle doesn't move at all. To do a quick test of your analog (needle) meter short the two leads together to see if the needle swings all the way over.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2004 | 12:03 AM
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From: Central Kali
A faulty regulator can only do two things. (1) not give any output to the field terminal. Then your alternator would not charge the battery. (2) Put out full system voltage to the field terminal. This would not hurt anything unless you went to a high rpm where the battery voltage would be too high.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2004 | 01:25 PM
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hey guys,i'm back at it again. the meter i have is the radio shack digital and it reads o when i tested the stator.So anyway I went to autozone and had both the old and new regs.tested turns out the old ones bad so now I'm re-installing the new reg+alt with a new batt.I'm going to leave the choke wire off the stator for now just to see what happens. oh yeah I taped it up just to be safe.I'll let you know what happens>
 
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Old Feb 17, 2004 | 01:35 PM
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stator stats

I'm still trying to find out what will cause a stator to go bad? are these the strongest part of the alt?Does it take a massive short? Or is it poor workmanship on the rebuilds to leave an open terminal.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2004 | 02:01 PM
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electric choke

On the 84 inline 6 automatic tell me about the electric choke.If the choke shows no short can it still be bad to where it blows a stator? On mine theres a connector where a second wire branches off and feeds power to what looks like a vaacum switch for the emissions system. The switch is located on the right fender next to the starter relay. what is this thing called ,what does it do?? Could this switch be bad and causing my stator problem? Damn I sure wish i knew if (Betsy,thats my truck) is eating these alts. or if these Palladium rebuilds are just junk. I've tried testing every conceivable way there is and found nothing wrong. There was'nt a damn thing wrong with her until I changed the alt. But I find it hard to believe that 2 seperate alts. had bad stators right from jump street. Can anybody relate to simular problem?? I've been DAZED and CONFUSED for a week now!!
 
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Old Feb 17, 2004 | 02:11 PM
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Do you have any photos of this so we can see?
 
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Old Feb 17, 2004 | 02:27 PM
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Are you serious or are you just messing with me? If you are serious I'll take the digital outside and take a couple a close ups of the part, as well as my WORKHORSE (no not my wife HaHa) I mean the most reliable truck I've ever owned. Damn I love at ole girl (MY TRUCK).
 
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Old Feb 17, 2004 | 03:17 PM
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if i understand them right , an electric choke is basicly a ' short ' by it self , and needs to 'show' one,but a regulated one . thats where the heat comes from to cause them to actuate . you might check the voltage at the choke, plug, on the carb. and see if its with in specs.its possible that somewhere in your harness you have a short to direct grond, bob. btw, are you insuring that your battery has a full charge prior to starting the engine with the new atl installed ?
 

Last edited by bob arrington; Feb 17, 2004 at 03:32 PM.
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