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I haven't tries to hi-jack this thread, I have noticed that a lot of people are mislead by the "synthetic" label - what I have tried to do is provide information about the title of this thread...
Is this thread not titled Rotela-T??
What is the problem with providing that information?
My guess is many folks on this forum are under the impression that there is a rotella "synthetic", which such an animal does not exist. That was the information that I was providing...
Sorry for starting a war Guys! I WAS FULLY AWARE, that this oil is not synthetic. I have been using synthetic oil for years- but only in my gassers, not my PSD. Was just looking to see if others felt the same way I did in regards to my situation.
Dang, that article about the by-pass filter is very impressive. Sure wish it wasn't so expensive. Hmmm, maybe one of you guys will come up with a homemade version of this too!
Originally posted by fast freddie Dang, that article about the by-pass filter is very impressive. Sure wish it wasn't so expensive. Hmmm, maybe one of you guys will come up with a homemade version of this too!
hmmmm, something to consider about Rotella vs Motorcraft. My neighbor has a '99 PS and it had a problem with cutting out on him after going about 6 miles or so from a cold start. Winter/summer didn't matter. Ford dealer changed the Injector computer and the problem continued.
They put an oil pressure meter on the high pressure pump outlet and noticed a lot of fluctuation in pressure.
This mechanic, whom I trust pretty much, said he has seen these kinds of oil pressure fluctuations with Rotella and the thinking is that the Rotella may have a tendency to foam.
My neighbor went back to using Motorcraft oil and hasn't had a problem since.
I switched back to using Motorcraft also. I noticed more smoothness and less clatter with Motorcraft. Also the oil is still brown when you wipe the dipstick on a white paper towel after a couple thousand miles.
Next time you get a chance, do the white paper towel test with Rotella about 1000 miles after a fresh oil change. I'll guarantee you if you look close in the right light, you will see a green tint to the oil. I sent an email to Shell asking why the oil had a green tint and never heard a response.
Another thing to keep in mind is that the high pressure oil in a PS is more of a hydraulic fluid then oil and the oil used has to hold up to the high pressure and the pumping. I have to think that Ford has Engineered something into the Motorcraft oil taking the high pressure pumping into consideration.
I'm sticking to Motorcraft Oil because of what my neighbor went thru, cost him $800 to find this out. Also because I don't like the fact that an oil turns green. Before you think I'm crazy, do the white towel test and you will see a slight green tint in the right light.
I think cavitation and or foaming is due in part to leaving the oil in longer than recommened( past 5k miles) I always change my oil out at 3k. I check my oil (dipstick) On a weekly basis, I never noticed the oil with a slightly green tint. My oil always looks clean, then again it might be because I only have 38k miles on the truck. Thanks for the tip, I will keep an eye out for the green tint.
Interesting comment on the green tint to the Rotella, I thought it was just my eyes finally going but guess not now,whew, any ideas on what causes this?
Well what can I say.? That's just damn impressive. I gotta get me at least one. That's some good lookin' work on your truck. What's the ball valve for going to the filter? Does it make uch of a mess when you open the housing? Thanks for the great info Mykro!
I've never noticed a problem with Rotella and I use it exclusively in my truck. 157K miles and no problems with it so far. Anyone who tells you that Motorcraft oil is better than Rotella and other quality oils is selling you a bill of goods. Yes, it is a good oil, but it certainly isn't the only oil you can use with a PSD.
I have been told by two fairly experienced diesel guys that Rotella's additive package "comes out" at lower temps than other oils. I don't know whether that's all Rotella oils or not. International dealer service manager said oil samples have come back with unusually high copper counts (bearings) tear the engine down and bearings are ok. He believes it's one of the additives in the Rotella coming out under high temps and showing false copper. He recommends installing an oil cooler. Dale at Tymar Performance said the same thing about Rotella and recommends using Chevron Delo but doesn't think an oil cooler is nec. but said you should have an oil temp gauge. As far as using Motorcraft oil I would bet, but could be wrong, that Ford doesn't make it's own oil, GM uses Mobil. If Motorcraft oil is alot more expensive than other oils it may pay to find out who makes it.
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