Failed Limited Slip Diff Clutch
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Failed Limited Slip Diff Clutch
On the weekend I got my truck stuck in the snow. I could only get 1 of my 2 rear tires to spin even when I got the the low traction tire to spin slowly initially before increasing the revs.
Are my LS cluthes fried?? If so is it a big job to fix??
Are my LS cluthes fried?? If so is it a big job to fix??
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
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From: Senoia, GA
prolly not they just aren't all that dependable. how many miles the truck have on it? never actually changed LS before but I know you gotta pull your rear chunk and that could take a lil esp if you don't have a full floater
-jason-
-jason-
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The truck (2002 Exploreer XLT with 4.0 SOHC and 3.73 ratio LS rear end) has 88,000 kilometeres (55,000 miles) on it.
The only reason the truck got stuck was because I could not get drive to both rear wheels. I made sure the truck had an LS rear end on it to avoid the exact scenario I found myself in!!!
Pardon my ignorance but what do you mean by a full floater??
The only reason the truck got stuck was because I could not get drive to both rear wheels. I made sure the truck had an LS rear end on it to avoid the exact scenario I found myself in!!!
Pardon my ignorance but what do you mean by a full floater??
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Indiana
I have a 31 spline Trak Loc (LS) sitting right in front of me, and I can see no reason that you would have to pull the axles (let alone the carrier). It looks to me like you should be able to remove the rear cover, pull the c-clips and pinion gears, remove and replace the clutchs and put it back together.
Am I missing something?
A full floater is normally used on 3/4 ton or larger vehicles. You pull the axles on those by unbolting the axle from the hub. The 8.8 is a semi floater and the axle is held in place by c-clips inside the pinion gears in the diff.
Am I missing something?
A full floater is normally used on 3/4 ton or larger vehicles. You pull the axles on those by unbolting the axle from the hub. The 8.8 is a semi floater and the axle is held in place by c-clips inside the pinion gears in the diff.
Last edited by steell; Feb 17, 2004 at 08:25 AM.
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From: Indiana
An 8.8 is an 8.8 is an 8.8, etc. Carriers are the same (with the exception of 28/31 splines). You asked what a full floater axle was, so I explained (and no you don't have one).
More than likely, the clutchs in the LS are worn out and need to be replaced. As I explained above, it's not a major job, and requires no special tools.
BTW: the 7.5" in Rangers, etc, is the same as an 8.8, only smaller
More than likely, the clutchs in the LS are worn out and need to be replaced. As I explained above, it's not a major job, and requires no special tools.
BTW: the 7.5" in Rangers, etc, is the same as an 8.8, only smaller
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Full float means the weight of the vehicle does not ride directly on the axle shaft.
If youre clutches are already worn out maybe it is time to look at replacing your limited slip with a locker? Just a thought...
If youre clutches are already worn out maybe it is time to look at replacing your limited slip with a locker? Just a thought...
Last edited by wick246; Feb 17, 2004 at 11:57 AM.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Florida
If you have to pull the pinion gears to extract the diff, then you are looking at a complicated job. Setting the pinion gears does require special tools and precision alignment. If not aligned perfectly, you'll tear them up. I suggest you have an experienced mechanic perform the work. You can test your LS by jacking one tire off the ground, putting your truck in neutral and blocking the other rear wheel. Take a torque wrench and place in on one of the lug nuts, then attempt to spin the free wheel with the torque wrench. If the free wheel spins easily enough to pop the torque wrench at under 20 pounds, then your clutches need to be replaced. 88K is alot of miles to get out of an LS diff.
when was the last time you changed your rear oil and added fresh friction modifier? Sometimes just some fresh 80/90 oil and friction modifier can fix the problem.
Tom
when was the last time you changed your rear oil and added fresh friction modifier? Sometimes just some fresh 80/90 oil and friction modifier can fix the problem.
Tom
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The truck has only 55 K miles on it (88 k kilometers).
The rear end fluid was swapped at about 25 K miles due to water intrusion into the rear diff (only a little i believe). When the dealer swapped the fluid I dont think they added the modifier (the modifier didi not show up on the parts list for the work that they did). The fluid recomennded is the 75W-140 which was added bt again i'm not confident the modifier was added. Could the absence of the modifier have fried the LS clutch?
The rear end fluid was swapped at about 25 K miles due to water intrusion into the rear diff (only a little i believe). When the dealer swapped the fluid I dont think they added the modifier (the modifier didi not show up on the parts list for the work that they did). The fluid recomennded is the 75W-140 which was added bt again i'm not confident the modifier was added. Could the absence of the modifier have fried the LS clutch?
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From: Florida
You would have noticed the absence of friction modifier right away. You would have heard and felt clutch chatter. Your clutches engaging and disengaging at a rapid pace. However, it wouldn't hurt to ask.
75W140 is ok. That's what Ford specs recommend anyway.
How long were you driving your truck with the water in the rear. I did the same thing to mine and screwed up my clutches. I recently replaced the fluid and it help alot, however did not fix the problem all-together. I have an Auburn aftermarket LS, and I called Auburn and they said the sometimes it takes a hundred miles or so for the new oil to work itself in. The problem actually seems to be going away a bit.
Try the torque wrench test tonight if you can. 20 pounds of torque isn't alot. You can probably just bear-hug your free rear wheel and try to turn it. If you can turn it easily, chances are your clutches are bad. If it feels like its sticking pretty good, then your ok.
Another trick is that if you are stuck in a position where only one tire is spinning and the other won't catch, apply your emergency brake or regular brake while hiting the gas for a second. In almost all cases, this will engage your other tire and get them both spinning.
Try the torque test tonight and let me know what happens.
Tom
75W140 is ok. That's what Ford specs recommend anyway.
How long were you driving your truck with the water in the rear. I did the same thing to mine and screwed up my clutches. I recently replaced the fluid and it help alot, however did not fix the problem all-together. I have an Auburn aftermarket LS, and I called Auburn and they said the sometimes it takes a hundred miles or so for the new oil to work itself in. The problem actually seems to be going away a bit.
Try the torque wrench test tonight if you can. 20 pounds of torque isn't alot. You can probably just bear-hug your free rear wheel and try to turn it. If you can turn it easily, chances are your clutches are bad. If it feels like its sticking pretty good, then your ok.
Another trick is that if you are stuck in a position where only one tire is spinning and the other won't catch, apply your emergency brake or regular brake while hiting the gas for a second. In almost all cases, this will engage your other tire and get them both spinning.
Try the torque test tonight and let me know what happens.
Tom
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From: Florida
Well,
I did my own torque test last night. According to Auburn, I should have torqued 70-80 lbs to turn the one wheel. Mine turned at 55-60. Not completely shot, but starting to wear.
However I did notice another problem.
with the one wheel off the ground and the tranny in neutral, i was able to rotate the tire back and forth about 2 inches without engaging the drive shaft. This movement was freely made. Also, I climed under the truck and was able to rotate the drive shaft back and forth freely without moving the tire at all.
So, there is definately 2 inches of play in my rear end. I don't think it's the clutches. I think perhaps it's either the pinion gear (maybe one of the shims fell out) or it the gears that connect my diff to my rear drive axles (ouch). I have an appointment to take it into Steeda next Tuesday to check it out. I hope it's nothing too serious.
Tom
I did my own torque test last night. According to Auburn, I should have torqued 70-80 lbs to turn the one wheel. Mine turned at 55-60. Not completely shot, but starting to wear.
However I did notice another problem.
with the one wheel off the ground and the tranny in neutral, i was able to rotate the tire back and forth about 2 inches without engaging the drive shaft. This movement was freely made. Also, I climed under the truck and was able to rotate the drive shaft back and forth freely without moving the tire at all.
So, there is definately 2 inches of play in my rear end. I don't think it's the clutches. I think perhaps it's either the pinion gear (maybe one of the shims fell out) or it the gears that connect my diff to my rear drive axles (ouch). I have an appointment to take it into Steeda next Tuesday to check it out. I hope it's nothing too serious.
Tom
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
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From: Senoia, GA
pull your rear diff cover off and drain it....then have a buddy turn the d/s back and forth while you look in the housing for play! It may be your backlash is off....that or your teeth are getting thin!
-jason-
-jason-
