Coldest A/C Possible
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Coldest A/C Possible
I have an 89 Brocno Eddie Bauer, 351w, with 169,000 miles. I am planning of replacing the ac compressor this weekend to plan for the hot summer. My plan is to get the ac as coldest as possible.
IS there anything else i should replace or tweak to get this? Like the blower motor, special coolant, etc?
IS there anything else i should replace or tweak to get this? Like the blower motor, special coolant, etc?
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
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If you are really getting 30 degrees out of the vents, the evaporator has got to be down in the 20's. That thing will turn into a big ice block in no time. Truely "ice cold air" generally indicates a low freon charge.
The coldest "practical" air that should be coming out of the vents is in the upper 30's or low 40's, regardless of R-12, R134a, or any compressor you decide to run. Even then, the evap coils are going to be down in the low 30's.
The coldest "practical" air that should be coming out of the vents is in the upper 30's or low 40's, regardless of R-12, R134a, or any compressor you decide to run. Even then, the evap coils are going to be down in the low 30's.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,195
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From: San Antonio, Texas
It works perfect. By 30 I mean about 30-33 and when I got that # is when I got it charged and set up right, and it was about 75 outside. When I was cruising the beach last summer it stayed around 35-40 according too the thermometer.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Loveland, CO.
If you are coverting to R134a, and I will assume that you are, then the two things that you can do to increase cooling is the get a larger condenser that is made for R134a, and to add an electric pusher fan IN ADDITION to the regular fan and have it come on whenever the AC is switched on (to blow air across the coindensor) , otherwise with the coversion the AC will tend to warm up when idling.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: South Carolina
Don't overlook...
Replacing the compressor is pretty straightforward - but don't forget to replace the accumulator and expansion valve at the same time. These are must-do's if you want to guarantee long performance out of the system. Also, have a set of the infamous o-rings and garter springs if your system is equipped with them. You'll probably be converting to R-134, so it's a good idea to blow the lines/evaporator/condensor out with compressed air and use the conversion refrigerant oil to refill. Check the manual - each component takes a certain amount of oil in it at startup. With a freshly overhauled system, you can expect temps in the mid to low forties. That's usually enough to freeze you out on the high settings. Good luck!
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: San Antonio, Texas
The oil for 134A and r-12 is the same stuff, the chemical companys market them as seperate.
You can use the same condensor, my truck is running proof.
Wat I think is funny is someyone told me that 134A oil would degrade and destroy r-12 o-rings and you had too replace the o-rings with ones made for 134A. Completly untrue. Just a myth.
One thing that has bothered me is that my blower motor is on the weak side, I found this too be the same when I drove my 83, is there a more powerful blower motor made for 80-86 or can I use a later model if they are more powerful?
You can use the same condensor, my truck is running proof.
Wat I think is funny is someyone told me that 134A oil would degrade and destroy r-12 o-rings and you had too replace the o-rings with ones made for 134A. Completly untrue. Just a myth.
One thing that has bothered me is that my blower motor is on the weak side, I found this too be the same when I drove my 83, is there a more powerful blower motor made for 80-86 or can I use a later model if they are more powerful?
Last edited by BroncoRoadKill; Feb 18, 2004 at 12:38 AM.
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