What kind of clutch options do i have for a truck with a mildly built 300 run through a T-18 that will be offroaded? I'm shooting for about 180hp and 330lbs of torque. I have a stock clutch now (about 10k on it) and just driving it around town it barely has enough grab (everything is adjusted right) and towing forget about it. Once it grabs it's great, it's just getting it to grab that isn't easy. I'm going to be gearing down, but tiring up so i'm going to wind up about equivalent to what I have now (about 3.12's vs. 3.08's), but will have more torque to counter with, too.

A setup with either a heavier plate and stock disc or a stock plate and stickier disk would be about right. I have nothing against an increase in pedal pressure, but my dad complains about how stiff the clutch is now. He doesn't drive it often, but once it goes 4x4, I see it disappearing on weekends. (he has his own, a nissan xterra, but it's new so he doesn't want to mess it up. . . yet)

Who out there makes heavier plates for the 300? Will a 302 or 351 plate work or are they balanced differently? What about performance discs? It has the 11" setup in it.

Justin

EDIT: The truck is a daily driver.

 

You could try dialaclutch.com to see if they have a setup for you. I just bought a pro-gold setup for my truck and will be installing as soon as it gets here(tuesday). Will put up a post on how it performs. I went with the Luk pro-gold kit for increased clamping force and also because my buddy went to it after a centerforce and says he likes it better. I talked to a custumer rep on the phone and they insured me I will have plenty of clamping force to turn my 38's. Hope this helps.

 

I have run the centerforce dual friction clutches with good results, or even one of the centerforce preasure plates, these use wieghts and centrifical force to put more clamping power on, but are still not too heavy on the clutch pedal preasure.
As far as different balance your flywheel should be the only part that will make a difference on engine balance, the clutch itself better be zero balanced

 

Yea, generally speaking you want to buy the best clutch and pressure plate your wallet can afford. Centerforce, Mcleod, all have good stuff. Since you already have an 11" setup you probably don't need to drill for a 12"...just put in a quality plate and clutch. I don't think I need to mention that you need to make sure the boot around your clutch fork needs be uncracked and well sealed. A little mud and grit in there and you have the problems your describing...

 

The boot around the clutch fork was replaced when the tranny that is currently in it was put in by the PO (about 10k ago). It got a transmission, clutch, and pressure plate all at the same time. When I pull it all apart I'll check it out, see if anything did manage to get in there.

At what point in the centerforce line does the clutch become more of an "on/off" than letting you slip at all? what about the Luk clutches? My experience with dual friction discs is that it turns into a toggle switch, either all or nothing (of course this is with air cooled VW's).

I'd rather be over clucthed than under clutched, but would really like to be just right.

Justin