Help. I have been experiencing starting problems with my 1997 PSD. It seems to crank slow and I need to hold the accelerator pedal to the floor (Fly by wire, should not make any difference). Now the truck will shut off part way through engine warm-up some times. It still cranks weird after it is warm. Cleaned the cables. I am also getting poor fuel economy but that started 4 months ago.

 

docsmith

Sounds like a cps problem. Do a search lot's of info on the subject get it from International for about $90.00. Also may want to check your batteries.

John

 

CMP cam position sensor, ie " BIG P.I.A. !!!" From reading through this forum and my own experiences it can definitely cause some of the symptoms you have listed. One minute truck runs fine,it may stumble a little or you just shut it off, try to start again and it'll just crank and crank and crank until you have sucked the life outta your batteries. You can do a search in this forum for CMP or cam sensor posts, or hard starts. Also try The Diesel Stop at https://www.ford-trucks.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/f-dfie.php3

Some things to look for.... does the tach move when you attempt to turn over the motor? The CMP should send a signal to the tach. If you have access to an OBD-II scanner even better cuz you can then grab the DTC's ( diagnostic trouble codes)

http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/73tdi.shtml

0340 Inactive CMP Sensor Circuit
0341 CMP noise Rejection
0344 CMP sensor circuit intermittent

For a better explanation of the CMP try this link at The Diesel Stop

https://www.ford-trucks.com/faq/949/maint/ecsd/cmp.php3

After I had mine towed home it would start and idle for like 30 - 60 secs and just shut off like the key was turned off. Took me almost two weeks to struggle through and figure out my problem. Thank GOD for the internet!!!!I hope this at least gets you pointed in the right direction. GOOD LUCK

 

Have your batteries load tested, even if one is bad replace them both. Does the tach register 2-300 RPM while cranking? If it does not the CMP is bad. The truck needs 9.5v while cranking for the IDM to fire the injectors. If batteries are good have the starter load tested. What grade and brand oil is in the engine? How clod is it? Do your glow plugs work?

 

Ggg6, thats kinda the first thing that hit my mind mabe the batts. or a starter going bad and drawing to much voltage. i remmeber when my cps (or cmp) went, it would crank just fine

 

2 things I would check before the CMP sensor ("CPS") are the batteries and the glow plugs. Also, have the injecor o-rings ever been changed? That could make it harder for the engine to get compression, making it much harder to start in Detroit.

BTW, I would suggest you get rid of the K&N, it doesn't filter that well. Get either the Tymar (my choice) or the AFE which is sold by the FTE online store.

 

I check the batteries before and they were fine. Just did a voltage drop and only had 0.23 volts between the far battery and the starter. It cranked today (15 degees) and held 10.5 volts for 45 sec+ then 9.5 volts for another 90 sec. The starter seems to drag so I guess I will get one from e-bay. Still has the engine quiting during warm up, how do check the Cam sensor? Have not had the check engine light come on.
Thanks for your input, love the site.

 

well this is kinda stupid question....are you plugging your truck in at night?...cause that'll do it too