Bad Ignition Switch?
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From: PA
Bad Ignition Switch?
OK here's my problem. Truck started cutting out intermittantly while driving or idling. Usually restarted right away, I replaced the ignition module but no change. Now its happening more often so I hooked up some test equipment and here is what I found. When the truck cuts out I see the voltage on the battery side of the coil drop from 12V to 8V then no spark from the coil and engine stalls. I replaced the coil since I had a spare but no change. Now it no longer starts right away, it will crank normally but the voltage remains at 8V and no spark. Sometimes while turning the key back to off the voltage goes to 12 and sparks. One time I turned the key all the way to off but the starter kept cranking for a few seconds. Are these the symptoms of a bad ignition switch? Can anyone tell me how to replace it, I don't see it in my manual. Thanks.
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From: PA
Bad Ignition Switch?
Well the problem returned about 1 month after I replaced the switch, the replacement was a Sorenson brand made in China or something like that. I bought another switch from Pep Boys, it was Borg-Warner brand made in Mexico. The problem went away for 2 weeks then just started again, are these replacement switches also going bad or is there something else wrong with my truck? I just ordered a Motorcraft switch to see if the problem goes away for good. This is making me crazy, I don't know what else could be wrong. Anyone else have problems like this?
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I'm having the same kind of problem. See my thread "83 Crankshaft sensor". I haven't found the answer yet but am considering the ignition switch also. The thing about trying to start as it's returned to the off position has happened to me. Also, sometimes after starting, I have to move it back toward "off" a little to get accessories to work. Keep posting. Maybe we can help each other out on this!
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From: Vancouver
There seems to be a bit of play on these switches, but I can't figure out where. There's the lock tumbler itself, then there's the linkage running down the shaft to the ignition switch, then of course the switch at the bottom of the steering column. It'll be the weekend before I can take it all apart, but I had a similar problem with another vehicle some time ago, lights would come on by themselves while parked on a hot day. Turned out the switch mechanism was gummed up with contaminated grease.
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From: PA
I might have found the problem...my truck shut off again this morning on the way to work but this time it didn't start back up again. This time when I turned the key to start it wouldn't crank, just a click from the solenoid. I found a wire connected to the starter solenoid corroded and breaking, after replacing it started up. I don't know if this is a different problem from the intermittant cutting out or if this was the same problem I've had all along.
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The bad wire you found this AM sounds to me like a different problem, but resulting from the orignal trouble. You said "Usually restarted right away". If it's like mine, sometimes I have to crank it over some, creating heat in the starter wiring. My guess is, that wire finally got to the point (from repeated overheating) where it wouldn't carry enough current to operate the solenoid, but probably wasn't the cause of the "Cutting out".
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From: PA
You are correct, this was a different problem. After repairing the wire between ignition switch and starter relay the truck starts but now I'm back to the intermittant cutting out. I believe I'm chasing several different problems with similar symptoms. When the problem originally started it got to the point where it happened often enough to isolate it to the ignition switch. I believe the switch was bad because of the way the truck would try to start as I turned the ignition to the off position and the starter would sometimes keep cranking when turned off. Since it doesn't do those things now I think the switch in there is OK. I've been reading some posts about the starter relay or ballast resistor wire causing similar problems, I guess I'll just have to keep looking.
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From: PA
I'm glad you got your problem straightened out, hopefully I fixed mine too. Looks like I had another bad ignition switch, when the truck was running the slightest pressure on the key would cause it to cut out. After replacing it yet again (this time with a Motorcraft switch) it cut out on me again then started right up, jiggling the key while running didn't cause it to cut out any more. Early on in this whole troubleshooting process I replaced the coil with an older one I had stored for years, it came off of a running truck so I thought it was good. I put the original coil back on and so far no problems in over 3 days now. Now I'm thinking (hoping) that this old coil was going bad and contributed to the problems I had. Like you said, time will tell.
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WELL, IT DIDN'T WORK OUT AS WELL AS I'D HOPED. IT DID SOLVE THE ROUGH IDLE & RICH FUEL CONDITION, BUT IT CUT OUT ON ME AGAIN YESTERDAY WHILE CRUISING AT 45mph. NEXT STEP IS TO TRY TO DETERMINE WHICH SIDE OF THE IGN. SWITCH THE PROBLEM IS ON, i.e. LOSING POWER TO THE SWITCH OR LOSING POWER ON THE OTHER SIDE (BETWEEN SWITCH & COIL). SO FAR I'VE ALWAYS BEEN IN TRAFFIC WHEN IT HAPPENED, SO CAN'T WATCH GAUGES. THIS WEEKEND, I'M GOING TO GET OUT OF TOWN WHERE I CAN PAY ATTENTION TO THE TRUCK & DRIVE UNTIL IT HAPPENS A COUPLE OF TIMES.
I'VE GOT MY FINGERS CROSSED FOR YOU, BUT DON'T GET YOUR HOPES UP YET. IF MY MEMORY SERVES ME, THE FIRST THING A WEAK COIL DOES IS CAUSE A HIGH SPEED MISS (NOT ABLE TO KEEP UP WITH DEMAND) ANYBODY?.......I'LL KEEP YOU POSTED ON MY PROGRESS AS I FIND TIME TO WORK ON IT!
I'VE GOT MY FINGERS CROSSED FOR YOU, BUT DON'T GET YOUR HOPES UP YET. IF MY MEMORY SERVES ME, THE FIRST THING A WEAK COIL DOES IS CAUSE A HIGH SPEED MISS (NOT ABLE TO KEEP UP WITH DEMAND) ANYBODY?.......I'LL KEEP YOU POSTED ON MY PROGRESS AS I FIND TIME TO WORK ON IT!
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From: PA
Looks like I finally found and fixed the last part of this problem....had a bad ground in the reman distributor that I installed last fall. Previously I wiggled the wires at the connector but it never stalled, when I wiggle the wires at the grommet entering the distrib body it stalls. Replaced it with another reman unit about 3 weeks ago and no more trouble. This was in addition to the bad ignition switch and possible bad coil.
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