they are 8" beams. The noch I was thinking about would be just enough to seat a 1/2 copper/PVC or in some places 3/4 Copper. The original thought was to place it so that the bottom edge of the pipe would be flush with the bottom of the beam to create a fluch area for covering material. That's why I am thinking that we may not have a structural issue, but I could be wrong, that's why I am weighing all of the suggestions here.

 

For the water I'd use PEX pipe, if it freezes it usually won't burst. it's flexible enough you won't have to put any connectors in it to get it in place. You could put it inside 1 1/2" wire loom (availible at electric supplies) if its not going to be accessible in the future if you should ever need to replace it. I know I'm going to get shot down for this, but I used 1/2" pex for compressed air. I wouldn't use it in a commercial shop. Also it has a 100PSI relief in the lines. Go to <www.pexconnection.com> and ask them for recommendations and specs.

 

If you notch the bottom inch out of the joists, you will reduce the strength of the joist by the corresponding amount of material removed. When a joist or any other beam is loaded, the material at the top edge loads up in compression and the bottom edge is loaded in tension. If you remove material at the bottom, you are reducing the load carrying capability of the joist. Even worse is the sharp-cornered notch you will cut. The notch will concentrate the stress at the bottom of the joist and further weaken it.

There is something else to consider. If the piping is just under the surface of the drywall, it is at risk of being pierced by a nail - if not when the drywall is hung, then later on when you can't recall exactly where the pipe is. Electric wiring typically is required to be at the center of a joist for just this reason.

If the space above the garage isn't finished, why not just run the piping above the joists and cover them with an extra batt of insulation. If you are planning to drain the plumbing when you're not in the shop it should be fine.

Another option for the compressed air is a product like Kitec. It is becoming more common in residential construction for hot & cold water lines, but it is also marketed for industrial compressed air use. Kitec is flexible enough to pull through holes bored at the center of the joists and it is joined with compression-type connectors. It has two layers of PEX with an aluminum layer in between - kind of like liquid-tite conduit. The aluminum resists the pressure and the PEX keeps it sealed. It's rated for much higher pressure than plain PEX. IIRC, it's rated at 175 psi.

Kitec is made by Ipex. I recently was on their web site; I typed in www.kitec.com and I was redirected to the correct page. ipex.com is a different organization. I am in no way connected with Ipex, but I am planning add on to my house this summer and will use it for all my water plumbing. My local home improvement store carries it.

In the end, of course, the decision is yours. If you choose to notch the joists, just make two cuts beside each other with a saw to the required depth and knock the chunk out with a hammer. You probably won't even need a chisel.

Cheers,
Eric

 

Beams can be notched to a 1/4 of their depth but should be drilled instead. Keep the whole smaller than 1/4 of the width and make sure it is in the center third of the width and length of the beam. Multiple holes should be six diameters apart.


And don't use PVC for air! There is a shop near me that uses it. I am going to post some pics of it.

 

I'm just checking the replies and I am a bit surprised. didn't mean to cause such a big stink on this.

ok, the most important thing here is CPVC or other plastic pipe can explode.

I admit, I'm a user but for what its worth I will say I know of at least 3 other shops set up with CPVC and the oldest of which is about 15 yrs old. and I don't feel the risk is high enough to stop its use or tell others the same.
but for the ones that are using the CPVC or PVC, theaded joints derates any of its operating values.
CPVC is rated to 200*f and PVC is only good to 140*F.

think I will add more info with any tips or suggestions that may cause a safety issue.

this part of the topic can end now, I get the point.
just cuz it works and some of your bases are covered dosen't mean its entirely safe. but what is.
beware of dog
enter at your own risk
may cause dizzyness
warning! contents under pressure

well anyway, good luck with the copper pipe 95se5m.
later

 

I want to thank everyone for their assistance on this matter, it's given me a lot to think about. I believe what I am going to do to keep structural integrity is run them behind the wall I just studded out and then where they need to run across the ceiling I will run them between the beams. The wall I just studded out for insulation stands about ¾ to 1 inch away from the cinderblock. I leveled the wood top to bottom. Anyway, after looking at everyone’s advice, and viewing what I had to work with, this became the best way to do it.

Again, thanks to everyone for their help.

 

This is just a thought that might help, would it be possible to "fir" out say with 2"x2"'s on the bottom of the beams except where the lines run. I think from reading the posts, you mentioned that you were going to sheet the ceiling with foam sheets instead of drywall. If this is true, I think the 2"x2"'s would be plenty stong enough when screwed into the beams to support the foam sheets, or even drywall for that matter.

 

If you do want to put the pipe in the beam here is what you do.

Use a chalk line and snap a line on the bottom of the beam where you want your perpendicular run to go. Snap your line clear to one of the outside walls. Decide how high up on the beams your hole needs to be and mark them so they all line up. Now drill all the holes, including in the last beam by the wall so it goes to the outside. (You may have to remove some siding if you can't patch a hole in it) Now, from the outside shove your pipe in. Foam the hole shut and replace/patch the siding. Nice clean and neat installation.