F250 stalling
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Lake Havasu USA
F250 stalling
My father-in-law has a '00 F250 (non-diesel) that has been stalling quite frequently (every week for the past month). It only has 10,000 miles on it. It stalls out on him when he descends to a stop. It's been in 3 times now and Ford can't find anything wrong with it. The computer test comes back clean. We asked if it was the torque converter or possibly the Idle Air control. Someone at work said that there might be a hole in the intake. Has anyone else any problems with this? It would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Julie Maziar
Lake Havasu City, AZ
Thanks!
Julie Maziar
Lake Havasu City, AZ
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 234
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From: Moriches USA
F250 stalling
My 99 5.4 used to do this and it was a 5spd during cold weather. The truck was always in a heated garage at night but the first stop after a 1/4 mile trip it would almost stall. I didn't follow up on it as it to me was a minor thing to say the least. Seems to me you'll have to leave the truck overnight at the dealer so the tech can start it cold and realize the problem himself. Trimman
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,955
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From: Mesa
F250 stalling
Hi Julie, welcome to the site.
A bad idle air control valve will not leave a code. When mine went bad, it would start and then die right away. It wouldn't stay running unless I gave it some gas and held the pedal somewhat. It usually did it when the truck was cold. I suppose it could malfunction while driving. I replaced it myself for $70 or so. If this sounds like what your father's truck is doing then I'd press the dealer a little to replace the part if it's under warranty. If not you can take it off yourself and clean it with carb cleaner and give it a small shot of WD40 and try that out. To locate the valve, follow a 3/4 - 1" diameter rubber hose from the intake snorkel to the rear of the engine. Where it attatches is the valve. It should have 2 bolts holding it on and a wire connector.
A bad idle air control valve will not leave a code. When mine went bad, it would start and then die right away. It wouldn't stay running unless I gave it some gas and held the pedal somewhat. It usually did it when the truck was cold. I suppose it could malfunction while driving. I replaced it myself for $70 or so. If this sounds like what your father's truck is doing then I'd press the dealer a little to replace the part if it's under warranty. If not you can take it off yourself and clean it with carb cleaner and give it a small shot of WD40 and try that out. To locate the valve, follow a 3/4 - 1" diameter rubber hose from the intake snorkel to the rear of the engine. Where it attatches is the valve. It should have 2 bolts holding it on and a wire connector.
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