Replacing seals in NP205
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
Replacing seals in NP205
I bought a complete seal kit for my 205 and plan to change them all while I have it out. My question: is there any special method to installing the new seals that I need to know about? I'm assuming I just pry the old seals out and carefully tap the new seals in, but I don't want to screw them up.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ivan
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ivan
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,711
Likes: 2
From: Pittsburgh
That's really all there is to it, just a couple tips.
-If i were you i'd get some 600 grit sandpaper and anywhere the seal will seat in the case clean it up, then squeeze something along the lines of permatex #2 in there, just to be sure nothing gets by the sides.
-Also use that sandpaper to clean up the shafts where they go through the seals to be sure there are no burs or highspots to tear the seals up.
-When you install the seals lube them with whatever you're going to be running in the case (exactly). If you're gonna run straight 90 dino, lube em with that, if you're gonna run 75-100 full synthetic lube em with that. Helps them out when you first use the case.
Justin
-If i were you i'd get some 600 grit sandpaper and anywhere the seal will seat in the case clean it up, then squeeze something along the lines of permatex #2 in there, just to be sure nothing gets by the sides.
-Also use that sandpaper to clean up the shafts where they go through the seals to be sure there are no burs or highspots to tear the seals up.
-When you install the seals lube them with whatever you're going to be running in the case (exactly). If you're gonna run straight 90 dino, lube em with that, if you're gonna run 75-100 full synthetic lube em with that. Helps them out when you first use the case.
Justin
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
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hoxiii has great advice.
When you tap your seals in use something flat and about the same size to put on top of them so the metal part does not distort. If you can use a press or a c-clamp to gently push them in thats even better.
EDIT: One more thing - if you have to push a splined shaft (or anything with a notch or edge) through a new seal, put vinyl electrical tape over the splines before you push it through to keep from nicking or cutting the seal.
When you tap your seals in use something flat and about the same size to put on top of them so the metal part does not distort. If you can use a press or a c-clamp to gently push them in thats even better.
EDIT: One more thing - if you have to push a splined shaft (or anything with a notch or edge) through a new seal, put vinyl electrical tape over the splines before you push it through to keep from nicking or cutting the seal.
Last edited by wick246; Feb 12, 2004 at 10:24 PM.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
Awesome. Thanks for the advice guys. FTE is priceless!
I figured it couldn't be too complicated but didn't want to chance a leaking seal. It's way too much work getting that thing in and out of the truck.
I figured it couldn't be too complicated but didn't want to chance a leaking seal. It's way too much work getting that thing in and out of the truck.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,711
Likes: 2
From: Pittsburgh
These are just things you pick up from experience that NO manual EVER says or even HINTS at. Things like this can get expensive (relative term) fast. I had one leaking seal once after I replaced it, wound up bing a highspot on the shaft split it 
Decided that killing one $20 seal was enough for me. Having to spend $40 on a $20 seal really digs into a highschool budget. When money is tight it's amazing how quickly you learn 
Justin
Decided that killing one $20 seal was enough for me. Having to spend $40 on a $20 seal really digs into a highschool budget. When money is tight it's amazing how quickly you learn Justin
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