Disk brake upgrade
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 920
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From: Colville
where are the 6hole spindles coming from?
I have got a complete 79 front axel with good disc brakes.
I know I will have to build a tierod. Is there any thing else that I will have to change to make these fit?
I have got a complete 79 front axel with good disc brakes.
I know I will have to build a tierod. Is there any thing else that I will have to change to make these fit?
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,594
Likes: 2
From: Southern Oregon USA
The spindles, backing plates, calipers are from 71-76 1/2 ton GM pickups with 44 front end (in 77, they started using the corp. 10 bolt). Uses Ford hub and rotors, and Ford bearings. And you use the stock drum brake knuckles, with some grinding for caliper clearance.
You can get sleeves that allow you to use stock bronco tie rods with the Ford pickup knuckles. Other than that, they are pretty much a bolt on swap. A lot of people say that the GM is easier because you don't need to remove the knuckles but I think that is the perfect time for new ball joints.
IMO, the GM brakes work better. They are a better design and in my experience, they stop much better. But if you already have everything for the Ford swap...
Jason
You can get sleeves that allow you to use stock bronco tie rods with the Ford pickup knuckles. Other than that, they are pretty much a bolt on swap. A lot of people say that the GM is easier because you don't need to remove the knuckles but I think that is the perfect time for new ball joints.
IMO, the GM brakes work better. They are a better design and in my experience, they stop much better. But if you already have everything for the Ford swap...
Jason
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 920
Likes: 2
From: Colville
So then the stock bronco brake hoses work? and do I really need to change the proportioning valve. I don't have a brake warning light so I'm not concearned with that. When I went to 31sp rear axels I also upgraded to 11x2.25 rear brakes so they should be well balanced.
thanks Ed
thanks Ed
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,594
Likes: 2
From: Southern Oregon USA
You can use stock 76-77 disc brake hoses for the Ford swap.
If you have access to a Bronco prop. valve, then you could go ahead and use it. If not, try it first without and see how the braking performance is (lockup, lack of pressure, or stopping power) If you use the drum brake master cylinder, you will need to remove a valve from the rear reservoir (for the front brakes). If you don't it will hold residual pressure on the front brakes.
Jason
If you have access to a Bronco prop. valve, then you could go ahead and use it. If not, try it first without and see how the braking performance is (lockup, lack of pressure, or stopping power) If you use the drum brake master cylinder, you will need to remove a valve from the rear reservoir (for the front brakes). If you don't it will hold residual pressure on the front brakes.
Jason
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 920
Likes: 2
From: Colville
I will change the master cylinder. My thoughts are to stick with the drum prop valve and plumb in an adjustable valve.
I like the way the 5 bolt Ford spindles are studed and not bolt on.
I like the way the 5 bolt Ford spindles are studed and not bolt on.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
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you can still buy the prop valve new from ford. get a booster and master cyl kit, then you have power disc? i took a 79 front axel and used it from the ball joint out on my bronco. i put new ball joints, brgs, rotors, calipers ect...i did not do anything with the sleeves where the tie rods go? had a little tough time to get them to tighten up where the ball joing bolted to the knuckle. maybe i needed sleeves? or the 74 is different? lined it up after i was done and been driving it for awhile. stops great now, glad i went the extra and did it all while i was into it. did all new brake lines hoses and rears also.
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,594
Likes: 2
From: Southern Oregon USA
If they go into the knuckle all the way and are still loose or if you can remove the castle nut and the tie rod comes out on it's own you probably need the sleeves.
BTW, you can get studs for the 6 bolt knuckles. After years and years of R&R'ing my spindles to change broken axles on the trail, the threads in my knuckles were pretty thin. The last time I tore it down, I had to helicoil all of the holes. A couple of the bolts had come out far enough to wear on the wheel seal area of the hub. I'm glad I found it in the shop instead of on the trail or that the whole thing didn't come apart on the highway
Jason
BTW, you can get studs for the 6 bolt knuckles. After years and years of R&R'ing my spindles to change broken axles on the trail, the threads in my knuckles were pretty thin. The last time I tore it down, I had to helicoil all of the holes. A couple of the bolts had come out far enough to wear on the wheel seal area of the hub. I'm glad I found it in the shop instead of on the trail or that the whole thing didn't come apart on the highway
Jason
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 920
Likes: 2
From: Colville
RC, I have helicoiled some of my spindle bolt holes too, this is my concern. I have power brakes all ready just drums in front leave a little to be desired.
Left to do on my wish list for the 68 is > soft top
> change out 4sp od
> front disc brakes
> win the local mud drags
Left to do on my wish list for the 68 is > soft top
> change out 4sp od
> front disc brakes
> win the local mud drags
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,594
Likes: 2
From: Southern Oregon USA
I don't see any strength advantage between a GM and Ford knuckles or spindles.
They use the same size bearings, the same centering design in the knuckle. And the thickness of the spindles are nearly identical.
The only advantage that I can see is the spindle being secured by studs instead of bolts. But that is easily fixed.
Jason
They use the same size bearings, the same centering design in the knuckle. And the thickness of the spindles are nearly identical.
The only advantage that I can see is the spindle being secured by studs instead of bolts. But that is easily fixed.
Jason
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 650
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A few years back when I used to do quite a bit of tough truck racing, I would see a lot of chevys bend their spindles. In fact, I helped one guy flip one of his spindles 180 degrees because it was bent, he told me that whenever it happened, he would just take it apart and flip it over again. I see what you mean about the dimentions being roughly the same,but the ford spindle also has a larger mounting stud pattern. I guess I don't recall ever seeing a ford spindle bend-not to say it's never happened- I've seen housings and ball joints protest in an unpleasant ways.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,959
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From: USA
The GM spindles seem plenty tough. Years ago, I got airborne in my old '77 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 (Dana 44 front) and came down sideways on the right front wheel, in a deep rut crossing the road. The spindle studs sheared off the knuckle and everything from the spindle out seperated from the truck. I replaced all the spindle studs and the brake hose and used the same spindle, as there was nothing wrong with it.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,594
Likes: 2
From: Southern Oregon USA
We ran 2 tough truck Broncos out of our shop in many races on the west coast. Never bent a spindle. Broke a reinforced and trussed 44 housing after endo- ing about 48' into a 50' jump. I've jumped mine a couple of times at the dunes and (knock on wood) haven't broke or bent anything yet.
Once you bend a spindle and then try to bend it back the other way, it will have a tendency to be weak. Its like bending a piece of metal back and forth. Eventually, it is going to break.
Jason
Once you bend a spindle and then try to bend it back the other way, it will have a tendency to be weak. Its like bending a piece of metal back and forth. Eventually, it is going to break.
Jason