Recently one of the 98 e 250's in the fleet i maintain started the ussual missfire under acceleration, just when i though i had seen it all, I was once again proved wrong. Usually I just hook up the old snap scanner and taadaa there it is PO304 or PO306, well anyway it said missfire cyl.6 so yea changed all the plugs and cyl 6 coil, road tested, miss still there, ok ohmed it, fine, checked injector also fine, tested fuel pressure-66lbs. I was stumped so I cleared the codes and tested again- missfire primary and secondary coil #6, swapped the coil again- still missing errrrr, checked for intake gasket leak, none found......anyway after a whole day of checking sensors, swapping another pcm from another van, vacumm tests, ect. the last thing I could think of was a cloged converter so I cut it off and put in a straight pipe(temp of course) road tested, no more miss, checked codes- all codes clear. The only thing I cant figure out is why the hell the computer would kick out the miss on cyl 6. Just something for you other techs to kick around. Has anyone else ever seen anything like this??? I would like to think that the pressure that built up in the motor caused a lean condition that the computer tried to compensate for and couldnt so the cyl 6 was the first one it checked... But thats just me talkin out my a$$ becouse I really am stumped.
long live ODB-II (NOT)
Jason

 

Question for ya...........

I have a 97 5.4L with 81000 miles & because of a CAT problem, I ended up removing the down stream CATs on both sides. This was done about 2 years ago.

A while back I had my Check Engine light come on (truck runs fine though), went to AUTO ZONE & had the codes read, and the codes that came out were for the (A) Bank 1 Sensor 1, and the other code was (cant remember the number) for a (B) Lean condition. I'm going to replace the bad sensor and was wondering if this sensor might be causing the Lean Condition code?
Also, whats the easiest way to replace this sensor. Should I remove the wheel well to gain access or is there an easier way? Should I cut the wire and throw the 7/8 closed end box wrench over it? There doesn't seem to be alot of room to even get the wrench up in there. When I do replace the sensor.......should I disconnect the negative side of the battery (to rest codes) prior to starting starting the truck after the replacement ?

Thanks Triton King !!

Also, is there anything else I should be doing or watching out for with this engine that you see with the Tritons that ay cause me issues?

 

Sounds like you either have a dirty MAF or a vacuum leak. Check the pcv hose assembly for leaks and clean the MAF.
Jimmy

 

Jimmy,
I actually took a peak at the MAF (air filter area right?) a few weeks ago, and was wondering if I can carefully clean it without removing it. Like using a Q-tip. What do you recommend me using as a cleaning solution/cleaner?

I will also check the PCV area hoses also. Thanks

 

MAF can be cleaned by removing it from the air intake tube and using carb cleaner and the dry it with light blowing with an air gun dont blow hard though or you will wreck it, I like to just let them sit overnight and dry natraly, as far as your lean conditions, you have 1 or 2 bad O2 sensors, Its good to replace both so they both read the same, one new and one old will read at differant speeds. the best way to get at the passenger side is through the wheel well and the other can be easily reached from under the truck, go to auto zone and get the Ford O2 tool about 10 bucks, makes life alot easier, as far as what to do to prevent problems, dont spray the motor(wash it) with water, it reaks havik on the coil packs, change the antifreeze once every 2 years, otherwise it turns very acidic and eats the crappie factory head gaskets, other then that just do your required maint. and should be fine. Oh and the bad news- Heads need to be rebuilt on the 5.4 around 200000-250000, thats when they all seem to start burning valves well good luck, any more questions feel free to ask.

 

Tritonking,

Thanks for the response. I'm gonna do the MAF tomorrow and will get to the O2 sensor sometime next week.

When you say change the anitfreeze,..............would draining the radiator & then refilling be enough or are you talking about a complete flush job? The draining of the radiator is the way I would usually do this.

 

well if its warm enuff where you are i like to just drain the radiator and fill it with water, run it for 10 min , drain, fill with water and add a bottle of prestone radiator flush, run 20 min, drain and refill with fresh coolant about 70% anti freeze 30% water since you have to compensate for the water left in the block that you cant drain and get er full run for another 20 min, check your freeze point and call it a day.

 

Hey Tritonking,
Perhaps you can help me w/ my problem.
Where the #%*+@ are the plugs located on this engine?
I realize the doghouse has to come off, but this is rediculous.
I bought it used last fall w/ 70,000 on it, it's in storage now until the end of March. I looked for and was ready to change plugs one day last fall, I couldnt locate them. Help!
Should I use neversieze slightly on the threads when re-installing? What do I torque them at ?
Thanks much,
jiteha
PS, if you found and fixed your problem w/ plugged converter, congrats- they are hard to diagnose- keep an open mind

 

you cant see the plugs, every plug has a round black coil siting on top of it and the plug is 6 inches under these coils, the coil is held down to the head with a small 7mm screw, first time i ever did one it took 6 hours on a van with the 5.4 triton, now after a 100 of them or so it still takes 1 1/2 hours to do, yes use anti-seize and torqeing them will be next to imposible, i just give them a 1/4 turn past hand tight. to do the #7 plug you have to remove the fuel rail on the drivers side since the coil sits right under the dam fuel pressure regulator. If your not sure about this it is worth the 100 bucks to let presision tune do it, spend the 4.49 and get the motorcraft double platnum plugs too, they do really last 100000 miles, most of the vans i maintain run 10000 miles a month so i do it once a year in them all anyway, but the plugs are still good looking even after 100000 miles. hope this helps, GOOD LUCK, any more questions feel fre to ask

 

thanks tritonking,
It does'nt sound like a very fun project.
So I'm not going nuts - there are spark plugs in there!
I will probably tackle it when it warms up. You know what I mean living in Moorhead.
Motocraft double platinum it is- thanks for the tip.

 

help i am having a lot of problems trying to figure out why my ford e van has a miss under load .did everything i could think of to solve this .changed all 8 plugs cop injectors mas pcv fuelfilter airfilter egr valve air temp sensor both 02 sensors took the cat off checked fuel pressure in stalled new fuel regulator engine runs smooth at idle and does not miss in park when revved up only when driving light load or up hill
. Does any one out there have any suggestions

 

Have you run a scan of the OBD II system, is your Check Engine Light on?

I'm also in the autoglass biz-----we need a separate forum!

 

yes had it checked no codes

 

check engine light is not on

 

i would hate to get rid of this van it has been a great work van and every thing has been replaced over the last 2 years and it is still in great shape for the age and milage it has 267k miles on it does any one think it could be the computer