1991 351W-need advise.
#16
It has been a couple of days now and it has been running great-I installed a new kenwood system with Sirius yesterday and it sounds pretty good. Installing front door 5x7s is a pain but the head unit and back 6x8s were easy. This is the only system I have that doesn't have a sub so it sounds a little off but I will get used to it.
Going back to mechanic this week to install mech oil gauge as the old one is still pegging L once warmed up.
Today will be a true test, headed to rockingham loaded down with 4 adults and all the tailgating gear. Hopefully 12 MPG will be the only thing I have to complain about
I would definately go for a 351 if you can find a nice one, I have buddies that have had 302s and they always seemed to wish they had found a 351. It does sound pretty awesome with those flowmasters.
JW
Going back to mechanic this week to install mech oil gauge as the old one is still pegging L once warmed up.
Today will be a true test, headed to rockingham loaded down with 4 adults and all the tailgating gear. Hopefully 12 MPG will be the only thing I have to complain about
I would definately go for a 351 if you can find a nice one, I have buddies that have had 302s and they always seemed to wish they had found a 351. It does sound pretty awesome with those flowmasters.
JW
#17
#18
W,
I don't want to sound like a pessimist....but it is afterall your money....
If spending THAT amount....to get a temporary fix.....I would invest
$1300 on a new FRPP shortblock....and have the heads serviced and install the new assembly.....making sure you have new gaskets....necessary sensors etc....
If you decidd to have the mechanic fix the problem...an angle of attack can be to cut the exhaust tube crossing over to the driver side.....remove the oil pan
and then get into the oil pump/pickup tube, bearings, pistons etc....
It is your call.....
Instead of performing temp fixes I bit the bullet and replaced the entire engine and had the trans rebuilt.
the result = a reliable bronco that towed my sportscar up steep climbs with little or no bogging. (I took the san Luis Reservoir climb on 152) and the truck settled at 60mph.....)
If you are looking into selling the truck in the future...then go for trucks with lower mileage.....and sell them when they get up in mileage....
If you are going to keep it for a long time....I suggest investing some money for reliability
I don't want to sound like a pessimist....but it is afterall your money....
If spending THAT amount....to get a temporary fix.....I would invest
$1300 on a new FRPP shortblock....and have the heads serviced and install the new assembly.....making sure you have new gaskets....necessary sensors etc....
If you decidd to have the mechanic fix the problem...an angle of attack can be to cut the exhaust tube crossing over to the driver side.....remove the oil pan
and then get into the oil pump/pickup tube, bearings, pistons etc....
It is your call.....
Instead of performing temp fixes I bit the bullet and replaced the entire engine and had the trans rebuilt.
the result = a reliable bronco that towed my sportscar up steep climbs with little or no bogging. (I took the san Luis Reservoir climb on 152) and the truck settled at 60mph.....)
If you are looking into selling the truck in the future...then go for trucks with lower mileage.....and sell them when they get up in mileage....
If you are going to keep it for a long time....I suggest investing some money for reliability
#19
#20
Sounds like you got things taken care of for now...BUT watch that oil consumption like a hawk. You should check it every time you start to drive it anyway, but it's even more important now.
One thing you can do is get the little screens that go on your oil filter. If you have any metal filings floating around in your oil, they will collect on that screen. If you see that, it's time to overhaul the motor or sell the Bronco.
One thing you can do is get the little screens that go on your oil filter. If you have any metal filings floating around in your oil, they will collect on that screen. If you see that, it's time to overhaul the motor or sell the Bronco.
#21
good storm here in charlotte-watched a ton of 2WD SUVs sliding into curbs and other cars and the bronco just did its thing.
I got stuck behind a wreck and nobody was going anywhere, looked to the right and to my passengers amazement we jumped the curb and kicked it through a yard of a office park, there was enough snow to hide all the dips and eventually the stairs we ran down but didn't bottom out and jumped the curb again a block away. I would have loved to be looking out the window from the building watching it, it had to look funny.
JW
I got stuck behind a wreck and nobody was going anywhere, looked to the right and to my passengers amazement we jumped the curb and kicked it through a yard of a office park, there was enough snow to hide all the dips and eventually the stairs we ran down but didn't bottom out and jumped the curb again a block away. I would have loved to be looking out the window from the building watching it, it had to look funny.
JW
#23
There's a little kit you can buy at most auto parts store or even online. It has 4 round screens, about the same diameter as the oil filter. You place one of them between the filter and it's mount. As oil flows thru the filter ,they trap any metal filings without restricting oil flow. I can't recall the brand name though.
#25
Wolfeman, Just spoke with my uncle about the problem i'm having with my truck. I have the same problem you're having. Whats your RPM's when in gear? The RPM's should be greater than 900. Does you're Tranny downshift hard from 2nd to first when decelerating quickly? If so check you're hubs, make sure they're unlocked on both sides.
#26
Hey J
once warmed up my idle in drive is right at 500-600 rpm, no downshifting problems and I have auto hubs that have worked great the 4-5 times I have used them since I bought it in December. When I first bought it, it would rev itself at start up for awhile and then chill out, it also hesistated when I hit the gas but this was deemed a faultly Throddle body sensor and was replaced during the first round of repairs ($1900 worth
JW
once warmed up my idle in drive is right at 500-600 rpm, no downshifting problems and I have auto hubs that have worked great the 4-5 times I have used them since I bought it in December. When I first bought it, it would rev itself at start up for awhile and then chill out, it also hesistated when I hit the gas but this was deemed a faultly Throddle body sensor and was replaced during the first round of repairs ($1900 worth
JW
#27
JW, it sounds like the idle speed may be a little low. Check out this thread on how to check and adjust the Idle speed yourself
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...2B%25252Bspeed
Who installed and adjusted the new TPS?
JJD
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...2B%25252Bspeed
Who installed and adjusted the new TPS?
JJD
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