Starter Issues
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Starter Issues
I just recently recieved a 1986 F-150 XLT freebie from my grandfather. The truck runs fine and gets me around but my problem is that once the truck runs for a while and gets hot, when I shut her off and try to restart, there is nothing happening at all. There is no noise, no flutter, no nothing. After about 3 or so hours the truck will restart. What actions should I take to fix this problem.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: GANS
Sounds like you need to replace the ground wire from the battery to the engine and to the frame, and then replace the positive wire to the starter. If you are not getting a click when you turn the key, I would also say you need to replace the starter solenoid on the passenger side fender.
I would replace the battery wires first, altogether, they'll cost around $25 and 1 hrs to change them.
I would replace the battery wires first, altogether, they'll cost around $25 and 1 hrs to change them.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Virginia
Replacing the battery cables is a good suggestion especially if they are the originals. However, if you haven't done so; remove the cables from the battery and clean the battery posts and cable terminals until they are bright and shiny, reattach them and be sure they are tight. Sometimes they open up enough after they get hot to not carry enough current to start the engine. You don't need to over tighten them, just be sure they don't move if you try to twist them by hand.
While you have the battery cables off, be sure the attachments to the starter relay (solenoid), starter terminal and engine ground are clean, bright and tight. If that doesn't cure the problem replace the cables. The relay to starter and negative battery to engine/frame ground cables live down in a lot of heat and dirt and can break down inside without showing any external problems.
I just fought this problem for about a year in my 1985 F250 351W and finally found out that the catalytic converter was bad and generating tremendous heat about 8 inches from the starter and cooking the starter. Changed the cat and solved the problem.
Hope this is some help. RussA
While you have the battery cables off, be sure the attachments to the starter relay (solenoid), starter terminal and engine ground are clean, bright and tight. If that doesn't cure the problem replace the cables. The relay to starter and negative battery to engine/frame ground cables live down in a lot of heat and dirt and can break down inside without showing any external problems.
I just fought this problem for about a year in my 1985 F250 351W and finally found out that the catalytic converter was bad and generating tremendous heat about 8 inches from the starter and cooking the starter. Changed the cat and solved the problem.
Hope this is some help. RussA
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Thanks alot guys, this is by far the most helpful and polite forum I have ever been on. Everywhere else just wants to bash and flame you for not knowing what to do. But you guys actually took time to provide some helpfull insight. Once again, thanks alot and I will work on this problem tommorow and keep you updated.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: rural SE Michigan
2 the floor
Welcome to FTE.
If the good advise posted above doesn't do the trick, check your battery with a good load test. I've had seemingly good batteries turn up with plates shorting out internally when the critter gets warm.
Regards,
Oldbones
Welcome to FTE.
If the good advise posted above doesn't do the trick, check your battery with a good load test. I've had seemingly good batteries turn up with plates shorting out internally when the critter gets warm.
Regards,
Oldbones
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: GANS
Hey no problem man, we were all in that situation once. As to cleaning the battery terminals, if your terminal has a lot of white or green powder (corrosion), you can use a solution of baking powder and water, and use a toothbrush to clean it off. Just make sure you use eye protection as the corrosion is very acidic. After you clean then, use some grease (regular stuff from the grease gun, and coat the terminals with a thin layer; it helps it from coming back. I've seen mentioned here that they sell a spray for that as well, but I've never used it.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Cross SC
I've used a cheap cooking spray for years on my battery terminals to hold down the corrosion. Works great, just douch it down every once and a while.
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From: Beaverton, Oregon
2 the floor
Follow the above tips (it's all good stuff), but in addition, for any non-battery terminal connection (all the rest in the truck if you can) my recommendation is to get a tube of dielectric grease (or "compound") from your local NAPA and apply liberally on all connections, including screw-on type and especially blade-type connections. This will help to keep those connections from oxidizing or carbonizing due to arcing. I've fixed more than one blinking marker light or dim headlight with a quick cleaning a simple dab of this stuff.
BTW: Welcome aboard!
Follow the above tips (it's all good stuff), but in addition, for any non-battery terminal connection (all the rest in the truck if you can) my recommendation is to get a tube of dielectric grease (or "compound") from your local NAPA and apply liberally on all connections, including screw-on type and especially blade-type connections. This will help to keep those connections from oxidizing or carbonizing due to arcing. I've fixed more than one blinking marker light or dim headlight with a quick cleaning a simple dab of this stuff.
BTW: Welcome aboard!