new 390 won't start
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 0
From: Eureka, Ca.
Thanks for all the great feedback.
I have checked the plug wires, Not the voltage while cranking. Maybe I will try running a lead from the bat. to the plus on the coil. About the gas, it got so much gas last time I had to change the oil. the viscosaty was almost like water. I cranked it alot and was dumping gas down the carb trying to start the damn thing. I am afraid of doing that again. So how do I know when enough gas is enough? If I don't get it started today I am taking it to a mechanic. I have almost 3000.00 into this motor. I don't want to screw it up (If I haven't already).
I have checked the plug wires, Not the voltage while cranking. Maybe I will try running a lead from the bat. to the plus on the coil. About the gas, it got so much gas last time I had to change the oil. the viscosaty was almost like water. I cranked it alot and was dumping gas down the carb trying to start the damn thing. I am afraid of doing that again. So how do I know when enough gas is enough? If I don't get it started today I am taking it to a mechanic. I have almost 3000.00 into this motor. I don't want to screw it up (If I haven't already).
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,447
Likes: 1
From: Littleton, CO
A little gas will go a long way. If your carb is full and squrting gas, don't prim it with more than a quick splash, if at all. Should your carb be dry and need the pump to fill it up, I usually go with a small splash. I use and RC Car type fuel "jug", it has a nice little feed tube on it and you can hold it in your hand while watching, in case you need another little splash.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 0
From: Eureka, Ca.
It seems to be only fieing on cyls. 1 and 5. At least the header tubes for 1 and 5 are the only ones getting warm the reast are cold to the touch. Must be an ignition issue. Just don't have enough expierence with ford electronic ignitions . I think I will just buy the 6AL box and MSD dist. Any opinions on which ignition is best for a hi-po FE. This will make 420hp and 460tq, plus another 250hp NOS.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 908
Likes: 4
Sounds to me like you don't have the distributor aligned properly. Very similar symptoms to what you'd get on a Mopar if it was "180 out."
You may have already ruined the cam with all that cranking and watered down oil.
You may have already ruined the cam with all that cranking and watered down oil.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
You will need a better ignition. The stock stuff should still give you good low-mid rpm performance. You might check the stuff scroob said. I would pull the intake and check the lifters/lobes and redo the gaskets like mentioned by your machinist and try again. This will ensure there is no more water and the cam is not wiped out.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 0
From: Eureka, Ca.
I got the MSD 6AL box and a MSD Blaster 2 coil. Didn't make mucj difference. It ran very badly for about 5seconds on its own, then died. On the next try it blew flames out of the headers and carb then went back to sputtering and coughing. Easy! 
if I know!
I have built a couple of engines before and done lots of head gasket replacements cam swaps and so on. But this is got me totally buggered. Can someone tell lme what the symtoms for a flat cam are. Never had the privlege of dealing with one.
if I know! I have built a couple of engines before and done lots of head gasket replacements cam swaps and so on. But this is got me totally buggered. Can someone tell lme what the symtoms for a flat cam are. Never had the privlege of dealing with one.
Last edited by Ratsmoker; Feb 14, 2004 at 12:38 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
Sometimes you won't know a cam is flat until its too late. I pulled a cam with about 6 flat lobes out of a 2.8L chevy and it didn't really run too bad. It just didn't have anything but low end power and not a whole lot of that. Metal particles can destroy your bearings and possibly cylinder walls before you know anything is wrong. Cylinder pressures can get higher than usual or drop off to almost nothing. Flat cams are pretty evil problems becasue you don't know it until its too late.
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Apple Valley, CA
Are you sure you got the firing order in the correct rotation? It sure sounds like the rotation is set backwards!
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 0
From: Eureka, Ca.
Counter clockwise: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
Cyl No. 1 TDC, Both valves closed and rotor pointing to plug No. 1
The dot on Large cam sprocket is lined up with the 0 on small cam sprocket. Used straigt-edge to line them up with the center-line of the cam and crank.
Working MSD 6AL ignition and Blaster 2 coil. Good spark.
Plenty of gas to the carb.
There is no reasion I can think of that would stop the engine from starting.
What about the lifters not letting the valves close completely.
I can just barely turn the pushrods when both valves are closed. isn't that the way they are supposed to be?
Cyl No. 1 TDC, Both valves closed and rotor pointing to plug No. 1
The dot on Large cam sprocket is lined up with the 0 on small cam sprocket. Used straigt-edge to line them up with the center-line of the cam and crank.
Working MSD 6AL ignition and Blaster 2 coil. Good spark.
Plenty of gas to the carb.
There is no reasion I can think of that would stop the engine from starting.
What about the lifters not letting the valves close completely.
I can just barely turn the pushrods when both valves are closed. isn't that the way they are supposed to be?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
Assuming you have non adjustable rockers you can also check the lifter pre-load with the intake off. You can get a rough idea with the intake on by taking any cylinder and rotating the engine until the exhaust valve is about all the way open (presicion is not key here). Then take a wrench and slowly pry the intake rocker back until the lifter lunger bottoms out. You should have about 1/8" or a little more space between the valve stem and the rocker tip. Do the opposite for checking the exhaust preload of course.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 1
From: Colville, Washington
It sounds like the lifters are preloaded too much. You should be able to turn the pushrods quite easily when the valves are closed. Are they adjustable? Ratsmokers right on for checking the preload.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 0
From: Eureka, Ca.
Stock pushrods and stock non-adjustible rocker assemblies. I will check the pre-load tomorrow. I will let you know what I find.
I thought if you could turn them with your fingers you were O.K. So I didn't check pre-load.
I thought if you could turn them with your fingers you were O.K. So I didn't check pre-load.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 0
From: Eureka, Ca.
The heads are new Edelbrock Performer RPM. The block is a 1968 casting so who knows how much has been taken off over the years. I know that my machinist took off just enough to freshen up the deck to ensure a good seal.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 0
From: Eureka, Ca.
O.K. guys.
don't laugh too hard. I am new to ford's.
Found out why it wouldn't run: you know the drip rails that run under the rocker assenbly? well guess what happens when you leave them out. Yeah you gessed it. valves don't close all the way. After I reinstalled the drip rails it ran beutifuly. started right up.I ran the cam in. I will let you know if the cam is O.K. after I get to drive it (Well not me but my wife).
don't laugh too hard. I am new to ford's.
Found out why it wouldn't run: you know the drip rails that run under the rocker assenbly? well guess what happens when you leave them out. Yeah you gessed it. valves don't close all the way. After I reinstalled the drip rails it ran beutifuly. started right up.I ran the cam in. I will let you know if the cam is O.K. after I get to drive it (Well not me but my wife).