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E350 Cutaway chassis

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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 08:24 AM
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Question E350 Cutaway chassis

Hi all. New to the board. Just purchased an '88 Jamboree 26' class C motor home on E350 Van chassis. I know it has a 460 but I don't know what rear or trans it has. Any help you could provide would be appreciated. I'm assuming if I get the E350 manual(s), they should cover this application. Vin Sequence is 1FDKE30G0JHA. I think gvwr is 11,000. Thanks, paul

 
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 04:10 PM
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Yakk
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From: The KeyStone State
Your trans is a C-6 3 speed automatic.
The only Auto trans put behind a 460 in 1988 E-series.

The GVWR should be on the top of the vehicle safety compliance label in the door jamb.
I have a 1990 manual, and your axle code should be either 53 or 52 or E2.
Both are 7800 lb rated axles.
53 is 3.55 ratio.
52 is 4.10 ratio.
E2 is 4.10 ratio limited slip axle.

Check your vehicle safety compliance sticker for the 2 digit axle code, and I can decode it for you if it is different.

I have a complete 1990 E-series manaul set if you would like.
The info is all the same as 1988.
I have a 1988, but it stays with my truck.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2004 | 07:45 AM
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Thanks

thanks for your help. I bought the chilton manual for it and so far it's pretty good. I'll let you know if I can use the other manuals, give me a couple of weeks to tear into it.



 
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Old Feb 10, 2004 | 11:36 AM
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From: houston
FYI:

I've got an 82 e350 cutaway chasis like you. My rearend is a Dana-70. Becareful as one side of my rearend had reverse thread lugnuts. I wound up breaking off a few studs before I realized this. Needless to say I replaced mine will all normal thread studs. This may not be your case with the newer van but though I'd throw this in.

Dave
 
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Old Feb 11, 2004 | 08:23 AM
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thanks

Thanks Dave. Have you ever changed the fluid? Is their a drain plug or did you have to remove the pan?

paul
 
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Old Feb 11, 2004 | 01:08 PM
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My rv had been sitting up for almost 2 years when I got it.

Rear Diff: I pulled the cover to drain the fluid, replaced cover and filled up using fill plug hole.

C6 Tranny: I dropped the pan (as I don't know of any stock trannys that have plugs that would just be too easy, helpful if you leave the pan attached in one corner to drain it instead of it just dropping the whole pan. Regardless it will still make a mess. The filter is just a screen so it can be cleaned. I didn't pull the plug on the converter. If you know someone who can weld they could put a bung on the pan so you have a drain or buy an aftermarket pan.

You should probably use the mercon/dexron fluid. Don't use type-f.

Dave
 
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Old Feb 11, 2004 | 03:34 PM
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Yakk
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From: The KeyStone State
"THEY" don't provide drain plugs, since people would accidently drain their tranny fluid, instead of engine oil.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2004 | 03:40 PM
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From: houston
Anyone that stupid doesn't need to be working on their car then he he......

A drain plug is nice because you can drain the pan, drive a few hundred miles, drain it again, eventually you will get most of the old fluid out. This is what the tranny shop I sometimes us does. They say (and I've heard this other places) that power flushing the tranny is bad on it, stirs up the shavings etc....

I've got an gm van that had the tranny acting up. Changed 5 of the 13 or so quarts of fluid and now it's much better. Another change or so and I think it will be perfect.

I wish I could get a manual tranny in a new van...

Dave
 
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Old Feb 11, 2004 | 07:22 PM
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Type F is fine for an older C6, in fact Ford didn't start recommending Mercon in a C6 until the mid 80s.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2004 | 08:32 AM
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From: houston
I think it's somewhere about 80-82 where you don't want to use type-f anymore. Regardless I've been told if the tranny has been rebuilt you shouldn't use type-f
 
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Old Feb 12, 2004 | 09:42 AM
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thanks guys

thanks, all great useful info.

 
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Old Feb 12, 2004 | 09:45 AM
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From: houston
Also on your motorhome you need to make sure you are greasing the drive shaft as most likely it is a 2 piece driveshaft.

I've had to fix almost everything on my motorhome so let me know if there is anything else...

Dave
 
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 11:32 AM
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Electrical Problems

Now I have some serious electrical issues. When I got the motorhome I noticed the key didn't turn so easy and didn't spring back from the starting position. It got steadily worse. Had to play with it to get power to the fuel pump, distributor and stater solenoid. I replaced the ignition switch but things got worse. Now no power to fuel pump, etc. and when any light or elec. accessory turns on 2 solenoids start buzzing (it's a 2 battery setup with 3 solenoids). The solenoids only buzz for a few seconds when the dome light comes on or you step on the brakes but turn the headlights on and they buzz continuously. This is all with the key in the off position. Turn the key to on and buzzing doesn't occur with those activities. RV place said to check the emergency fuel pump cutoff switch. Haven't done it yet but thought that was kind of silly. Looking for help please.

thanks, paul
 
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Old May 29, 2004 | 12:00 AM
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"I wish I could get a manual tranny in a new van..."

Yeah. That bugs me. You can get them in trucks. Same loads. Maybe the gas crunch will change this. We have a 1985 E150 that used to get 22 MPG on the highway. Now it is tired and is only getting 18 but I am working on that, undoing the various little screwups from professional mechanics. (No mechanic should be allowed to use an air impact wrench for the first two years. And they should have to cover half of the cost of parts from mis-diagnosed problems.) The van has 4.9L, four speed overdrive standard tranny and a 3.5 (usually 3.0) rear end.

Larry
 
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