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I have worked in many shops with PVC air lines. It's cheap and doesn't swet like iron. Most shops use 3/4 PVC for the runs to 3/8 hoses and 1" PVC for 1/2" hoses. As long as PVC is anchored properly and glued right it works great.
we do all our air lines in schedule 40 black pipe, we buy it in 20' lengths and have a rigid power threader
Shatterable PVC is no good in a shop enviroment, IMHO
My hone has a 20' long 4" diameter crossover pipe where the honing oil flows between drains from the table, well they did it out of PVC on the cheap, somebody dropped something on it, pipe broke, 100 gallons of oil rushes out of the 4".............next pipe piece was steel with welded flanges
Eric,
This topic keeps coming up time after time. Would it be possible in the interest of saving time and lives, to post the threads that we have gone to such lengths in as "stickies"? Maybe that would stop this from coming up again and again.
I once worked in a shop with all PVC airlines. They worked great if you didn't touch them. When you did touch them, they would blow out. They finally had to redo the whole system. PVC just can't handle more than about 80 psi. I think that is the standard schedule 40 rating anyway.
I agree with Torque1st "Do not use PVC for Air Lines".
jbullfrog- Then why did you recommend it if you knew better???
I have started a FAQ section above. It was long overdue. Check it out and let me know if you have any additions or comments. -Thanks 79Lariat for the suggestion!
PVC used as a spanner to get to the outlets is a bad idea at every turn....the joints are glued together, and the more air you push through the system, the more heat is built up by the mass movement.....hte heat can make the plastic brittle (subject to failure upon bumping or even touching) and it causes the glue to break down as it has very VERY low viscocity, which causes the joints to be a timebomb waiting to fly apart.
**I** wouldn't use it around people that I liked....but in a shop environment, depends on how much you like your coworkers.
It isn't the heat either, it is just the failure mode of the material. It fails in a brittle manner and explodes. The glue is not a glue per se, it is a solvent that fuses the two surfaces together. That is why you are supposed to mix the materials by twisting the joint while pushing it together.
PVC should never be used anywhere for compressed gas service.
Why don't you use "L" copper with Brazed joints? It won't rust, is light weight, and is easy & cheap to insulate. You can get all the fittings, pipe, hangers, and braze rods at a refrigeration supply house. Just remember we measure by outside diameter. So 1/2" is 5/8"; 3/4" is 7/8"; 1" is 1&1/8". Make sure you sweat the joint not pile the brazing rod up at the connection. The braze should run back into the joint, you do this by heating the bulge in the fitting, its like soldering only hotter. Cherry red is too hot, so stay just under this point. If you quinch copper it gets soft, if you walk away and let it cool its hard, unless it was over heated. So you should quinch 90s and let thread connections cool gradually. Avoid 45s as they tend to crack.