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Old Feb 9, 2004 | 07:46 PM
  #31  
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Originally posted by Mattsbox99
We need a 60' cottonwood cut down in our front yard. My dad was quoted $300 just for that. Seems awful high.
If that is to cut it down and chip the branches and leave the stump, it sounds like a VERY reasonable price. Just make sure the guy/company has proper insurance and is certified. There is A LOT of riff raff out there running around.

-Matt
 
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Old Feb 9, 2004 | 07:54 PM
  #32  
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Originally posted by Kraken
Stump grinding and taking down a tree are two totally different things. Around here we get about $4-$6 per inch in diameter, root flare to root flare, for stump grinding. I've boiled down tree work to $150 pr hr and thats a fair rate some co.'s get 200. So if all you have to do is box a tree over and chip it up, it could take only 2 hrs with cleanup. Think about what he said $80 pr tooth, what happens if you break 2,3,even 4 teeth because of rocks that you cant see. Also with a 4 ft stump there will be about an entire truck load of mulch left over. To rent a stump grinder is about $200 for a day. They are not cheap, to buy your looking at about 15-20k.
Actually the teeth for the stump grinder (a Vermeer SC 252) are just under $10 CANADIAN a tooth.
We price our stumps by the hour. I feel as though you can't price by the inch because a 16" red oak and a 16" poplar are 2 totally different jobs. Doing it by the inch is not practical. A 16" red oak will take you 10 mins and a 16" poplar will take you maybe 20 mins. We quote $100 an hour for stump grinding. So, if you have a stump that will take 45 minutes (including machine on and off the trailer time) you will be looking at $75. The minimum charge is $60-$65 though.

For tree work we charge the high rate of $200 an hour CANADIAN. That's from the time we get on your property until we leave. This is all estimated time when we give the quote. The quote never goes up or down except for the rare exception (see post above). Sometimes we will make the $200 an hour, sometimes more or sometimes less. Depends on how close the estimator was on his quote.

-Matt
 
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Old Feb 9, 2004 | 08:08 PM
  #33  
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Kraken
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Ahh the art of the estimate. I hear you there. I going to raise my prices this year to I think 175 an hour.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2004 | 01:22 PM
  #34  
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But can you do better than this guy did? Amazing stupid animal tricks meets people.

http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmp...rmany_chainsaw
 
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Old Feb 11, 2004 | 04:22 PM
  #35  
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Oh my! Some people's kids!

-Matt
 
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 07:48 PM
  #36  
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Yesterday I bought a new chainsaw. Husqarna 455 Rancher.

What a great saw it is twice the saw that the junk steihl was.
 

Last edited by sglaine; Nov 20, 2004 at 07:54 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 08:03 PM
  #37  
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A mculloch [sp?] chainsaw cuts human flesh pretty good, 25 stitches last month for me.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 08:10 PM
  #38  
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Wow 25 stitchs becareful dude.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 08:21 PM
  #39  
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Yep, a word of caution to all, do not take safety for granted. I have used a chainsaw many times, and i will treat them with the utmost respect from now on.Took a hit on my calf muscle, it got in to the muscle a little, but another 2 " and i could have bled to death or lost my lower leg.I did not even feel a thing!I was doing something stupid, lifted up on a tractor, standing on a pallet, holding on with 1 hand and cutting with the other,bad situation!
 
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 08:46 PM
  #40  
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As a professional tree trimmer, feller and all around cool guy may I recommend something to ANYONE who uses a chainsaw? Go out and spend $200 (or less) and get yourself some safety equipment. You will want safety glasses, a hardhat, earmuffs (that preferably attach to your hardhat), gloves (mostly for the vibrations from the saw), chainsaw chaps (they go over your pants) and steel toed work boots.

I wear ALL the above stuff when working with a saw and it makes me feel MUCH safer. The chainsaw chaps have kevlar in them. If you accidentally hit your leg with the saw the kevlar "string" comes out and will wrap around the sprocket of the saw making it stop. Preferably get the chaps that have the kevlar in the front AND the back of the pant leg. If you only get it in the front and you hit yourself with the saw it could spin the pant leg around and still cut you.

I prefer the STIHL chaps over the Husquvarna ones (and not just because STIHL is a better saw!) but because the STIHL's have a zipper on the side and the Husky's are these stupid buckles that always break and cause the pant leg to shift around. JMHO.

-Matt
 
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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 07:33 AM
  #41  
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From: Where Critters Are Free
Originally Posted by Beast12
As a professional tree trimmer, feller and all around cool guy may I recommend something to ANYONE who uses a chainsaw? Go out and spend $200 (or less) and get yourself some safety equipment. You will want safety glasses, a hardhat, earmuffs (that preferably attach to your hardhat), gloves (mostly for the vibrations from the saw), chainsaw chaps (they go over your pants) and steel toed work boots.

I wear ALL the above stuff when working with a saw and it makes me feel MUCH safer. The chainsaw chaps have kevlar in them. If you accidentally hit your leg with the saw the kevlar "string" comes out and will wrap around the sprocket of the saw making it stop. Preferably get the chaps that have the kevlar in the front AND the back of the pant leg. If you only get it in the front and you hit yourself with the saw it could spin the pant leg around and still cut you.

I prefer the STIHL chaps over the Husquvarna ones (and not just because STIHL is a better saw!) but because the STIHL's have a zipper on the side and the Husky's are these stupid buckles that always break and cause the pant leg to shift around. JMHO.

-Matt
And fpr less vibartions buy a Husky saw for better control. The line up for the 2005 Stihl saws do not match up to the Huskys at all.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 08:17 AM
  #42  
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Beast12
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Originally Posted by sglaine
And fpr less vibartions buy a Husky saw for better control. The line up for the 2005 Stihl saws do not match up to the Huskys at all.
We aren't going to go down this road again, are we? I think we both know how each other feels about each saw.

-Matt
 
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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 08:21 AM
  #43  
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From: Where Critters Are Free
Originally Posted by Beast12
We aren't going to go down this road again, are we? I think we both know how each other feels about each saw.

-Matt
Matt at least try out the Husky 455 Rancher. They are a great saw far more powerful and smooth.

I tried 3 brands of saws before buying this one.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 08:52 AM
  #44  
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Beast12
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From: Sarnia, Ontario, CANADA!
Is it a consumer saw or a professional saw? Do you know what it would compare with in a STIHL?

Saws are like trucks: you use what you know. My dad has always bought STIHLs and that's what I use. I have used a couple Huskys but they were smaller ones. They were more powerful, I will admit, but I have heard that their filtering system was not as good so more stuff gets in the carb. That is why people always complain the air filter on a STIHL plugs up easier, it's because it is catching all the dust! That's what you want it to do.

My opinion: almost any saw will be fine for the average homeowner. BUT, for the professional, buy a STIHL or if you have to, a Husquvarna.

-Matt
 
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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 09:25 AM
  #45  
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I just bought a new Homelite 16", 33cc for use around the house and maybe a bit of firewood, they any good? Got to be better than the Mculluh's I had!
 
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