'81F100 w/ps
After replacing all four tie-rod ends, my steering wheel is about 90° 'off'. What happened was: I pushed the pitman arm out of the way(toward the drivers side) when the tie-rod joint was off the arm. I don't think the steering wheel was locked, but it may have gone into lock when I moved the pitman arm. The steering wheel was in the 9/3 o'clock position before I moved the pitman arm, but now its about 11:30 to 5:30 position. Before I take the truck in for a toe-in adjustment, I want to fix my own FU. The problem isn't with the tie-rod measurements, since I carefully measured the old set and transferred those measurements to the new parts. I broke the joint loose again from the pitman arm and thought I fixed it, but nothing changed when I refit the joint. I have to use a 'picklefork' to break the joint loose and have only one new boot left, so I need to do it right this next time. I don't want to have to pull the steering wheel to do this, I just hope someone understands what I did, and can tell me how to 'undo' my FU. Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.
Dave in Texas

 

It's hard to tell where you went wrong, but I'll sort of give you a generic cradle to grave approach and see if you can find out for yourself...hopefully. (It does seem odd that with the same measurements, the thing is off, huh?)
Remember...the following is general and some will not apply to your specific problem, but maybe you can glean from it:

Anyway...
First of all you have to make sure the sector shaft on the steering box is centered (oriented/rotated to center point).

(1) There should be a double spline on the sector shaft and a matching double spline on the pitman arm.
(2) Then move the pitman arm to the max both ways and find the "theoretical" center point. After this go inside and check the steering wheel to make sure it is oriented. (unless someone has diddled with it, it should be straight) If it is not, then you will need to remove it and set it.
(3) If the steering wheel is straight (or after you reset it) then measure the distance from your pitman arm to the knuckle on the passenger side. This will give you a general dimension for the drag link length.
(4) Install the drag link with the adjusting sleeve loosened and then reset the length to snug on pitman arm and knuckle. Tighten the adjusting sleeve on the drag link.
(5) Then measure the distance between the drag link tie-in to the knuckle of the driver’s side. This will give you a general dimension for the tie rod length.
(6) Install the tie rod with the adjusting sleeve loosened and then reset the length to snug. Tighten the adjusting sleeve.
(7) Torque all components to factory specs and take her for a spin. This will get you close enough to get it to an alignment shop.


Note: It is not always best to set drag links/tie rods to the same length as the old ones. Just a reminder.

Good Luck.

 

Thanks Big Orn for the help. I think where I must have gone wrong was pushing the pitman arm out of the way. I don't know if the steering gear or pitman arm would continue to turn after the steering wheel goes into 'lock' position. I've been calling around to find out what shops charge to adjust the toe-in on the truck. Everyone charges the same $80.....all they can adjust is the toe-in on the truck.....but they charge like its a full alignment job (castor/camber etc.)! The last time I had the toe-in adjusted it was $25. Times here in Texas are rough in my trade and I don't have the $$ for this work. Last month I had to replace all four tires and what with the cost for the new ends...... I'm not all that comfortable repositioning the steering wheel. If the pitman arm is in the wrong position, it seems to me that messing with the steering wheel would cause more problems with the way the truck steers. I sure with I hadn't swung that pitman arm out of the way! LOL Thanks, I appreciate the response!

 

If it's all stock the pitman arm can't be in the wrong spot. As far as the sector shaft turning when the steering wheel is locked - it shouldn't, but then there might be some play in the shaft from the sector to the steering wheel. If that was the case, though, it would definitely be apparent.

It is a strange set of affairs.

 

Parr, Where are you located? I am in South Central Texas. I have a toe-in guage and tire scribe I use for racing. It works pretty good for setting toe-in on just about any car/truck. If you didn`t pull the pitman arm off the sector shaft from the get go, disregard the following instructions, the problem has to be in the adjustments you made to the new parts. If you did break it loose from the sector shaft, try this. Some steering sector shafts will have four notches on the shaft making it possible to get your steering wheel off. Pop the pitman arm loose, turn your steering wheel all the way to the left. Then count how many turns it takes lock to lock (left to right). Turn back half that amount. Example; 5 rounds lock to lock, turn back 2-1/2 rounds. Steering wheel should be centered. Lock it in place. Reinstall pitman arm. If it is still off, then, you will have to make adjustments on your tie rod ends and drag link to get proper toe-in and proper steering wheel placement. Let us know how it goes.

 

I Agree.

 

Thanks for the replies. No, I didn't pull the Pitman arm off, just pushed it out of the way, so apparently the problem is in the adjustments. I used calipers to take the measurements from the old parts and made sure those measurements were the same on the new stuff, so I'm at a loss to figure what's wrong. Well it can be fixed with money.....finding that will be another problem.LOL I appreciate everyones advice on this, thanks! Dave S(Texas)

 

Found a place that I could afford ($50) so I had the adjustments made today. The toe-in was 'well' off and after the job was finished, the steering wheel was back to where it was before I changed the inner/outer tie-rods. The mechanic asked me if I/someone had attempted to adjust the steering gear. (No, it's never been touched) He mentioned this because he felt it didn't have the right 'feel' to it (returnability). I noticed this too, but figured it was because of the new joints in the tie-rods. I'm wondering now if the small copper-colored BB I noticed under the engine might have somehow come from the steering gear....I had to do some heavy banging on the pickle-fork to get that joint loose. I know the steering gear has something over 2dz ***** in it. I wonder if this ball I noticed on the ground could have somehow come from the steering gear? What might the consequences be if the gear has one less ball in it? I haven't noticed anything different as far as steering goes, except that tighter feeling and it doesn't 'return' as well as it use to. The pump is full of fluid and it was working well beforehand.