I was wanting to lower the rear of my truck. What I am looking to do is level the truck when it is sitting. I don't really want to remove leafs because if I do I won't be able to haul very much. From what I can see I'd need to flip the axle so the leaf springs run under it instead of on top. I'm afraid if i do that the back of the truck will be too low.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

Aftermarket coils in the front to raise the front to level with the back. It is safer and you will retain the same load capability. Too much fabrication work to flip springs and axles around, and yes, it will be too low anyway. If you do this, get a front end alignment after installation.

 

Interesting idea, but I do not want my 2 wheel drive looking like a 4. I may try removing some leaves, and then installing some type of airbag suspension to help when I put something in the bed.

 

AIM makes dropped shackles. Search "lowering" for more info.
I thought about dropping the rear 2" on mine before I do the front drop but after measureing I think the back would be lower than the front and not look good. Then again mine is a v8 so the front sits lower (maybe?) and being old the suspension has settled. I want lowering for handeling purposes but I'm going to try sway bars first and see how it goes.
Nick

 

Use the drop shackles from AIM or DJM. Flipping the shackle would give the opposite effect and could be dangerous.

 

16 years ago, I wanted to level up my F-100. An old time street rodder said to heat up the main spring close to the shackel. He told me to bring it over and he would do it. He go the tape out and decided how much the rear bumper would need to be lowered to got the effect I wanted. He put jackstands under the rear bumper. he warmed up each side until they touched the jackstand. It looks great!

 

That does work, but it weakens the spring. I saw a friend of mine do it on the front springs his Sonoma after the lowering kit he bought made it look like he was hauling bricks.

 

I just saw a pair for $59. They are made by Chassis Tech, SHA-FO6581A. Comes with the grease zirk fitting and says it's for 1965-1981 Ford Trucks. Also says it's a 30minute install. That's a good chunk of change to me, so I think I might toy with making a set before I buy a set. I would not put the axle on top of the spring pack. You will be bottoming out and jarring the back of your truck with every little bounce. I too plan to lower the rear to level it out with the front. I'll probably add a couple of Firestone airbags for when I tow my boat or haul a heavy load. I've opted from removing a spring from the spring pack, because I've seen some picks of a set of these old leaf springs that cracked near the spring pack bolt.
Lowering it will give it a sportier meaner look. When I see these old 70's trucks lowered(sporty, not butt scrappin' stance) it reminds me of a stout bulldog--built tough and low to the ground.

 

My truck has never bottomed! It rides great. What ever

 

Well, I have studied metallurgy for years and work with steel everyday. Heating steel up and cooling it in that way makes it more brittle. Why I have no doubt your truck has worked fine, the spring is weaker than it was before. (that is why your truck sits lower, and rides softer. Think about it. In order to sit lower and ride softer with the same amount of leafs they must be weaker.) If you do not believe me take a old coil spring (A valve spring will work also) test the compression force, then heat it up with a torch and let it cool down. If you test it again you will find that is is weaker than before.

You can get away with the torch lowering method on a coil spring with little danger if you heat the bottom coil so there is more of the spring touching itself at all times. That way the torched part of the spring will not be flexing during normal driving. However on a leaf spring the whole pack is required to move with each bump and dip in the road so torching it is a BAD idea.

I am glad you have not had any problems with your backyard lowering kit. As long as a person does a mild drop this way they will probaby be fine. Unfortunatly if a person drops the truck more the say 2 to 3 inches they are taking serious risk that the springs will fatigue early and break or crack on them.

When steel is heated above critical tempratue (around 1350 degrees) and allowed to air cool it become more brittle. Oh, by the way if the steel was glowing cherry red it was above 1350. On a piece of high carbon tool steel this method results in a harder surface also, but on a low carbon steel such as the type springs are made of is simply pulls carbon out of the steel making it weaker.

If you don't believe me look it up yourself in any book that discusses heat treating of steel.

Why that method worked for you, and I am glad you have not had any problems, I personally will take a safer approach.

 

I understand what you are saying, but this has been with success buy the old hot rodders for years. Good Luck!