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shifting problems with my ranger

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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 08:59 PM
  #1  
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shifting problems with my ranger

whenever i shift into second from first (doesnt happen from third to second) it always grinds, no matter what, is it the whole clutch or is it something to do with the syncros? and how much would it cost me to fix it? its a pain in the ***, the only way i can somewhat avoid it is to shift like 3 seconds after i push in the clutch can anyone help? thanks
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 03:37 AM
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Unhappy Grinding

It sounds like the synchronizers are gone. These are very susceptible to wear, especially if the transmission has been filled with ATF. FWIW, I'm told that when a transmission as old as yours is drained to replace the fluid, a lot of synchronizer debris is often found. The synchronizers are made of bronz which isn't the most durable of materials.

I would suggest that when you have the repairs completed, you replace the ATF (if that's what was used) with gear oil which is far more protective.

Just my 2 cents . . .
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 11:35 AM
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i'll do a fluid change next time im in my school auto shop, but i was wondering how hard is it to install new syncros because if there is depris im doubting that they are in the right place anymore, so ya how hard would it be to install them and of course cost, i doubt that they are too expensive, but you never know lol.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 01:31 PM
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Unhappy synchronizer installation

I have no experience with the installation of synchronizers. I just passed along some information I got from the mechanic who changed my transmission oil about a year before my Ranger (and nearly me) got crunched by a semi. My guess is that it's a pretty complicated operation and might require dropping the transmission. That's why I'm changing over my new Ranger's transmission to gear oil next week. There is a substantial improvement in shifting feel with the gear oil over ATF.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 03:46 PM
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If it is the sycnhronizers, you need to take the transmission apart and replace them. It sure sounds like that is the problem. You could try to "double clutch" when going from first to second. It's not a fix, but might help until you can fix the tranny. Drain the oil and see what comes out. Use a magnet to check for steel, and a paint filter or coffee filter works to check for non-ferrous metals.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 04:08 PM
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Houckster... I tried switching from the Ford recommended ATF Mercon to gear oil b/c i thought the same thing you did and the shifting got so stiff that I had to switch back and the problem was fixed. Your tranny is different than mine so check w/ a Ford dealer for the recommended Tranny fluid.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 05:03 PM
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el conquistador what kind of truck do you have and what year? because i hope i dont have the same problem
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 07:27 PM
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Sounds as if the master cylinder may be going bad. I had the same problem and R&Rd the master and it went away.

The guy where I get my trans worked on siad these are pretty hearty transmissions. Most problems seem to be hydraulics related more than anything else.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 08:54 PM
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I have a similar problem with my '95 3.0, 2WD. Sometimes it will grind going into first or second. But not if I ease it into gear slowly. Is this more likely to be a hydralics problem or sycnhronizer problem? The truck has 120,000 miles.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 01:53 AM
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Thumbs up

Was having the same problem with 94 splash,3.0 V6,had the third cluch put in with new flywheel,slave cyclinder,throw out bearing to resolve the slipping cluch problem/now for the gear grinding,had the guys to open up the tranny and replace the syncrows,,now she drives like she did when I bought her,and that it with 225,000 miles on the clock,yes I bought her new,but my daughter has claimed her now..
 
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 02:07 AM
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Thumbs down ATF in a manual

EL CONQUISTADOR: I am surprised at your results. I have done this change on several transmissions, all with the same very positive result including my late lamented '90 Ranger. I am unable to say why you got a poor result but if you gave SynLube's MT gear oil a try, you would not be the loser. Shifting is much smoother and there is none of the metal to metal feel as with ATF. ATF may reduce fuel consumption somewhat in the test facilities but out on the road, it's a mistake with accelerated synchronizer wear one of the results.

After my '90 Ranger got bumped off by a semi (crushed rear end vs. a dented bumper) I spent almost three years in two Ford Focus vehicles. We had a big debate about ATF. Turns out that initially, Ford specified ATF for US production, gear oil for Europe and motor oil for Japanese export for the same MTX-75 manual. Guess what all Foci use now. ATF just didn't do the job. Our Rangers don't generate the speeds of internal components like the Foci but the relevance is still there, the faster speeds in the Focus simply point out the problem sooner. Consider, ATF is primarily made for automatic transmissions, that it can work in manuals is a plus for the accountants since they can save money but we pay for it in the long run and few of us here are into trading their beloved Rangers in every 3-4 years. ATF is fundamentally a compromise. Gear oil is is what our manuals want.

I am scheduled to replace the transmission, transfer case and front axle lubes with SynLube MT on Tuesday. As with previous conversions, I'll have excellent results. In contrast to the marvelous Dana rear axle with RE lube (esters and PAO, a real synthetic lube), the front axle has a terrible lube (foam and sludge) that I'll be glad to be rid of. I plan on keeping my Ranger for a long time. By replacing the lubes in these mechanisms, I'll be reducing drivetrain friction considerably. I believe 19-20MPG around town (light to moderate traffic and no lead foot) and 22-24 MPG on the road are reasonable possibilites with a 4.0L V-6 (4WD, manual 5-speed).
 

Last edited by Houckster; Feb 1, 2004 at 02:10 AM.
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 10:14 AM
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EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE I GET A VERY SLIGHT GRIND GOING 2ND TO 3RD. ONE MECHANIC SAID THE SHIFTER CUP (BELOW SHIFT LEVER) NEEDS LUBE.? IT IS A 98 2WD. WOULD CHANGING TO GEAR OIL BE GOOD FOR MINE? WHAT WEIGHT?
 
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 10:18 AM
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Exclamation Gear oil weight

Either 70W90 or 75W90 would be just fine if you're looking to improve shifting in general. I prefer the synthetics. Mobil 1 I'm told is good if you're looking for something over-the-counter. Otherwise . . .

I am not sure about whether this would do anything for the shifting cup since I'm not a mechanic though but if it receives lubrication from the ATF at present, it would have to get better.
 

Last edited by Houckster; Feb 1, 2004 at 10:22 AM.
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 02:35 PM
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Lightbulb

interesting stuff Houckster...Thanks for the FYI. so where do you get ahold of 70w-90 or 75w-90 Synlube MT oil?
 
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Old Feb 1, 2004 | 02:52 PM
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I just went to synlube.com and they had in bold letters DO NOT USE were ATF is specified. Mine specifies using ATF. Do you still recommend it?
 
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