Carb upgrade question
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New User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8
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From: Montana
Carb upgrade question
I have a 1980 Bronco with a stock 300-6 (re-built with <20,000 mi.). Been having some trouble with mileage & starting lately. Starts great first thing, then runs fine until it is shut off, and tried to re-start again. It'll just crank & crank...not fire. After about 10 minutes of this, it'll finally reluctantly start after holding throttle to the floor. Some say its a choke issue...others say carb. The carb was re-built the same time as the engine. Anyway, I'm interested in upgrading my manifold/carb. to solve this issue permanantly, as well as more towing power.
Anyone have any advice or experiences?
Sorry for the "amateur mechanic" question!!
Anyone have any advice or experiences?
Sorry for the "amateur mechanic" question!!
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 772
Likes: 0
From: Glen Burnie Maryland
With a Carter YFA historically the mid body comes loose from the lower body.
Causing a vacuum leak thru the gasket which leads to rough running , hard starting, and poor mileage (not that the 300 gets good mileage by any stretch).
Pull the carb off the truck. Turn upside down on a bench. Remove the 3-4 bolts hoding the lower body to the mid body. Clean threads with a wire brush. Coat threads with RED lock-tite, and re-install bolts, then re-install carb.
Run a couple of can of Gumout thru the carb itself as the internals could also be gumming up.
Recheck the mixture screw adjustment, the idle adjustment, the high idle adjustment, and the choke setting per specs.
Holley used to make a 1 bbl replacement for the YFA years (20+)ago but haven't seen one lately as the requirements for carbs has dwindled in cars and trucks..
Larry
Causing a vacuum leak thru the gasket which leads to rough running , hard starting, and poor mileage (not that the 300 gets good mileage by any stretch).
Pull the carb off the truck. Turn upside down on a bench. Remove the 3-4 bolts hoding the lower body to the mid body. Clean threads with a wire brush. Coat threads with RED lock-tite, and re-install bolts, then re-install carb.
Run a couple of can of Gumout thru the carb itself as the internals could also be gumming up.
Recheck the mixture screw adjustment, the idle adjustment, the high idle adjustment, and the choke setting per specs.
Holley used to make a 1 bbl replacement for the YFA years (20+)ago but haven't seen one lately as the requirements for carbs has dwindled in cars and trucks..
Larry
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 576
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From: Cameron, OK
Larry is exactly right, I had the same prob with an 80 F100... locktite fixed it up though. That was the reason I got the truck so cheap, it would barely run. I got it home and the carb was about to fall apart, after fixing that and a couple of vacuum leaks it ran fine. I have a 2bbl motorcraft carb off of an early 70's 302 on mine now. I couldn't find an adapter plate for the ford 1bbl 1bbl swap but I found one for chevy 1bbl to ford 2bbl at a speed shop. I just used a 5/16 reemer tool and my dremel and adjusted the holes slightly to fit the ford 1bbl bolt pattern.... slotted the holes about 1/8" in. The throttle linkage is turned 90 degrees from the 1bbl, so I cut my throttle cable mounting bracket and turned 90 and welded it back together. Bolted it on, and the rig runs great now, has a little more power too. To get the right carb I called JC Whitney, told them I needed an old Ford 2bbl with elec. choke, that was it. Took about 4 weeks to get here but it was $110 where all the locals wanted about $250. They also make 4bbl intakes for the 300's, I have one, an offy, but I haven't put it on yet.
New User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4
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From: Vermont
the Holley Carb is still available as a rebuilt. It is a Model#2280 (which comes in a 1 and 2 barrel version ) and the reman number from Holley is a 64-1126. There are not a lot of them but they are still around
