Removing front clip
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Visalia, CA
Removing front clip
I'm replacing the 292 in my 64 with a 460 and want to remove the front fenders and grill in one piece. I see that the front is bolted to the frame thru the radiator support. How are the front fenders attached to the body??
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,222
Likes: 1
From: East Central Florida
JR,
1st mark position of both hood hinges where they mount. Unbolt them from the firewall & brackets but leave them in place on the hood, a 2 or 3 person job.
Next are a series of Bolts at Firewall which hold fenders in place.
Some are readily visible, some are not and a couple are "hidden" in your "A" Pillar (door jamb).
If you go to the Sticky & let the images download, you can see a beam like member where the inner fender meets the fender, at the top. Follow it back to the firewall and there are some bolts right there with their heads facing forward.
Mark position where top beam meets firewall for a reference when you reassemble, also look for shims & spacers which may or may not be there. If they are, mark or note or remember how many are/were on which side. Remove all bolts from top but 1, which you'll "back out" but leave threaded in enough to support rest of front clip as you remove other fasteners. FWIW if the top fire wall bolts are rusty/ stiff, clean & Lube the 1 you thread back in so you can remove it w/ fingers.
Next drop down to back skirt of front fender where it rolls under at bottom of the cowl. At the very bottom the fender curves under and about 1.5" forward from the door seam, and 1/2" up in the fender edge, with head facing inward toward cowl, threads outward, is a bolt. remove it.
While you are under there in front wheel opening you should see a insulator and 2 bolts where inner fender attaches to your firewall. remove them.
Next open door. Along inside edge of "A" Pillar [aka door post] ois a small metal plate held with 1 phillips head screw and a clip in tab. Remopve the screw and remove the tab, it will reveal the last bolt holding the rear edge of the fender in place. remove that bolt also. Now the fender should be "loose" but held up by the bolt you left in the beam at the top.
Unplug or remove any wiring, and mark what you are not sure of! or take digital Pix for reference later.
WHen everything is unbolted & disconnected, it is best to have 3 people to remove clip. You want to avoid wracking or twisting support core at all. SO 1 in front lifts up, and 1 on each side nearthe rear of the fender/ wheel opening move forward to get out from under and to clear pinchweld lip on firewall. If you got it right you should be ables to lift and walk awqy with the clip.
If you do it alone brace rear tops so they do not spread, and establish a balanced "Pick Point" for your load cables to meet & hook on your lift device.
I can't stress enough to avoid twisting, wracking or distorting clip while handling it. I have used X bracing held with 6" "C" Clamps, and have even tacked stuff with my MIG to brace off. Twist the clip & you will struggle getting it back like it was, or as it should be. . .
Also when you set the nose down block it up so it's sort of level & squared up and not flopping or leaning etc.
I hope this helps you out JR.
FBp
1st mark position of both hood hinges where they mount. Unbolt them from the firewall & brackets but leave them in place on the hood, a 2 or 3 person job.
Next are a series of Bolts at Firewall which hold fenders in place.
Some are readily visible, some are not and a couple are "hidden" in your "A" Pillar (door jamb).
If you go to the Sticky & let the images download, you can see a beam like member where the inner fender meets the fender, at the top. Follow it back to the firewall and there are some bolts right there with their heads facing forward.
Mark position where top beam meets firewall for a reference when you reassemble, also look for shims & spacers which may or may not be there. If they are, mark or note or remember how many are/were on which side. Remove all bolts from top but 1, which you'll "back out" but leave threaded in enough to support rest of front clip as you remove other fasteners. FWIW if the top fire wall bolts are rusty/ stiff, clean & Lube the 1 you thread back in so you can remove it w/ fingers.
Next drop down to back skirt of front fender where it rolls under at bottom of the cowl. At the very bottom the fender curves under and about 1.5" forward from the door seam, and 1/2" up in the fender edge, with head facing inward toward cowl, threads outward, is a bolt. remove it.
While you are under there in front wheel opening you should see a insulator and 2 bolts where inner fender attaches to your firewall. remove them.
Next open door. Along inside edge of "A" Pillar [aka door post] ois a small metal plate held with 1 phillips head screw and a clip in tab. Remopve the screw and remove the tab, it will reveal the last bolt holding the rear edge of the fender in place. remove that bolt also. Now the fender should be "loose" but held up by the bolt you left in the beam at the top.
Unplug or remove any wiring, and mark what you are not sure of! or take digital Pix for reference later.
WHen everything is unbolted & disconnected, it is best to have 3 people to remove clip. You want to avoid wracking or twisting support core at all. SO 1 in front lifts up, and 1 on each side nearthe rear of the fender/ wheel opening move forward to get out from under and to clear pinchweld lip on firewall. If you got it right you should be ables to lift and walk awqy with the clip.
If you do it alone brace rear tops so they do not spread, and establish a balanced "Pick Point" for your load cables to meet & hook on your lift device.
I can't stress enough to avoid twisting, wracking or distorting clip while handling it. I have used X bracing held with 6" "C" Clamps, and have even tacked stuff with my MIG to brace off. Twist the clip & you will struggle getting it back like it was, or as it should be. . .
Also when you set the nose down block it up so it's sort of level & squared up and not flopping or leaning etc.
I hope this helps you out JR.
FBp
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,260
Likes: 0
From: Napa
Great advice by Pete 
One suggestion I have is to remove the front bumper. We tried for 20 minutes to remove the front clip, only to realize it (lower valance) was snagging on the bumper So we removed the bumper and the clip came right off. This was on a 66 F250 though.
One suggestion I have is to remove the front bumper. We tried for 20 minutes to remove the front clip, only to realize it (lower valance) was snagging on the bumper
So we removed the bumper and the clip came right off. This was on a 66 F250 though.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,222
Likes: 1
From: East Central Florida
Ooops!
JR you're quite welcome, I'm glad I could be of help & hope you find the "retro" easy. I have a D1VE 460 ci Series 385 in my slick. Best thing, er. . . AHhh. . . . 1 of best things I ever did for my Slick.
If you find suspension & stopping to be on "light side" get a hold of me.
ZombieSlayer,
Oops!. . . . . . You're SOoo Right! Forgive my slip up there!
That's what happens when one does stuff in a repetitive manner over a long period of time. One forgets things taken for granted then fails to mention them! Removing front bumper is certainly a prime example. I totally agree nose isn't coming off with face bar still bolted on. . . . . Thanx ZS, I humbly stand corrected !
FBp
If you find suspension & stopping to be on "light side" get a hold of me.
ZombieSlayer,
Oops!. . . . . . You're SOoo Right! Forgive my slip up there!
That's what happens when one does stuff in a repetitive manner over a long period of time. One forgets things taken for granted then fails to mention them! Removing front bumper is certainly a prime example. I totally agree nose isn't coming off with face bar still bolted on. . . . . Thanx ZS, I humbly stand corrected !
FBp
Guess I shouldn't follow the advice given to me by those brand x boys 
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SuperDuty93
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
20
Mar 29, 2016 05:27 PM
LARIAT 85
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Sep 16, 2015 08:12 PM
johnfin1
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
17
Jun 11, 2015 02:57 PM
