rust!
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY, USA
I believe that any kind of etching primer or sealing primer will help prevent rust from forming under the paint. I know that there are some other products that claim to neutralize rust but I don't know the name of them off hand.
I would take a look at Eastwood's catalog. I'm sure they have all kinds of stuff to help.
I would take a look at Eastwood's catalog. I'm sure they have all kinds of stuff to help.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 5
From: Valley Center, CA
There are a lot of people in the paint forum that can answer this question much better. I had lots of surface rust on by 54 so I sanded it off then sprayed it with phosphoric acid and rinsed the next day. It's available at Home Depot for $6/quart. Good luck, John 
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,495
Likes: 2
From: Northwest Fl
If the truck is being kept insde and dry after sanding I would use a good etching primer. If, on the other hand, you are going to continue driving it or if it exposed to the elements then I would use the phosphoric acid and then cover with an epoxy primer.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
There has just been a discussion on this subject on the classicbird yahoo groop. A product named POR15 has rave reviews for stopping rust and durability. Go to www.por15.com for their web site. From what I understood, this product goes right on top of rust.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,495
Likes: 2
From: Northwest Fl
I have used POR-15 on my frame and underside of the cab, but I would be leery of appling it to the topside of the body parts. I would instead stick to a full paint system, using compatible primers and paints. I like the POR products but with the work and money involved with prepping and painting a truck, I would go with proven and compatible paint system. Mixing products can lead to all kinds of problems.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 5
From: Valley Center, CA
I used the por 15 first. It worked fine but at $12 a pint, it seemed a little expensive compared to the stuff at Home Depot. They both smell the same and seem to work equally well. I think they are the same stuff except for the pretty packaging and fancy flyer. If you want a 100% guarantee, then let the paint shop do the whole process. But, that's going to be very $$$$. Huntsman right about the mixing brands. I heard about a guy who used one brand of primer and another brand of top coat. Bad results! Good luck, John
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
I understand from the classicbird group discussion, por15 should be kept out of sun. It is to be used only where the sun don't shine to so to speak. Some people on the group thought it was better than powder coating for the frame.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,119
Likes: 2
From: Southern New Hampshire
Ive used and sold POR-15, YUK! In the snow belt it will not stand up to road salt plus brake fluid will dissolve it. It looks like a tool dip and is virtually impossible to top coat with real paint. OK I guess for trailer queens and show cars if you are into the phony look.
These days I swear by and pimp <h2>ZeroRust</h2>It can be used on frames, exterior and anywhere in between. It can be used as a top coat or coated with just about any commercially available automotive paints.
It is compatible chemically with plastic fillers also.
It can be brushed or sprayed with just basic protection.
"<b>www.zerorust.com</b>"
EMail me for specific pricing, etc. but a quart is in the $15-17 range for most colors.
These days I swear by and pimp <h2>ZeroRust</h2>It can be used on frames, exterior and anywhere in between. It can be used as a top coat or coated with just about any commercially available automotive paints.
It is compatible chemically with plastic fillers also.
It can be brushed or sprayed with just basic protection.
"<b>www.zerorust.com</b>"
EMail me for specific pricing, etc. but a quart is in the $15-17 range for most colors.