I need to replace the bearings in my steering column - it rolls around a little. Any tips? Seems like that is a pretty straightforward procedure, but you never know.
While I'm at it, I'd like to shorten it (never got around to getting a tilt) and need to know the best way to do it or even if it's advisable. Or if there is another application that has a shorter column that will work.

I have a p/s unit off of a 73 250 with all the accompanying hardware. Thanks, boys!

 

I'd like to shorten mine as well, it sits pretty far up in my face and its a little hard to steer. I THINK they told me they replaced the column I'm not sure. it is just uncomfortably close. I'd like to shorten it to a comfortable length and I dunno how to do it either...
I'mm all ears. (ok eyes)

 

I had similar probs on mine...rag joint was shot to high heaven...2nd rivet almost ready to wear completely thru the insulator. In the process, this made the column hard to steer and noisy too. new rag joint and problem gone, although I need to pull down column for overhaul....horn wire,t/signal cam as well as brgs....any one have any experience with these as the harness is inside the mast jacket

Thanks, sixtyfive

 

The harness is incorporate with the T/Sig Switch. I tie a piece of masons' line using a couple of bolen knots so when I remove the T/Sig Sw it pulls line through the galley. after I finish whatever I'm doing with the column, I re-tie the line on the harness and pull it back through into position again.


Some Columns like 73-75 have an adjustable bottom bushing set up, others 76 & up have a fixed bottom bushing. There are other differences between Automatic, Manual Column & Manual floor shifted transmissions too.

I have not had much luck getting repair parts for the "Slick" columns, but I can get them for the 73-79s. Upgrading to 73-9 column is involved. Its been covered here on FTE, & elsewhere too many times, non the less that's what I tend to do.

 

Hiya, Pete! Thanks for tossin in your pennies. You still need to give me that call, brother!

I'm REALLY glad you weighed in, but you didn't hit my shortening query. You've purt near seen and done it all and probably forgot more than I'll ever know. What's the 4-1-1 on column shortening? Do you think it's advisable? Doable? (Anything's doable right?) Is there a better way to get a shorter column in a Slick? I ain't a beanpole by any stretch, but DANG, I feel like I'm drivin the old boy with my gut! Not a lot of give there. Thanks, Pete...j

 

If you guys already have power steering, I would suggest a smaller steering wheel. I put a Grant classic three spoke on my old 66, and it gave me tons of room. I am 6'5" tall, and I was chewing on my knees with the old wheel! Now I need one for my 65!
As far as shortening the column itself, it would depend on if you use a column shift.
My 65's cab mounts went South, so the weight of the cab was riding on the column. The previous owner drove it to the point where the lower bearing race was shot. My 65 has a np 435 on the floor, so I took a good 65 manual 3-speed column I had, and cut off it's lower end, and grafted it onto the end of my 65's column. I had to shorten the steering shaft as I was using a 75 power steering box. I removed the coupling from the shaft, measured twice, and cut the shaft. I slid the coupling back on, and welded it top and bottom. It fits perfect, and now I don't have any slop in the column.
The shaft could be re-splined for the coupler, but I am confident in my welding skills.
I think the same idea could apply to shortening the interior length of the column itself. Maybe cut it upward from where it mounts to the dash?
I didn't try to use the 75's column, so I am not sure if it would gain any more interior room.
I am sure someone else can give some input on the pros and cons of using a later model column.
Good luck guys!

 

Ed, super input. My passenger side cab mount is shot, no doubt adding to the wearing of my bottom bearing race - she's a goner.

I have a Grant 13.5" steering wheel already (thank goodness! I don't know how you did it - I'm 6'2"). I did use the 73 column from my donor, which I think was shorter than stock 66 three on the tree. I do not use the column shifter - I have a B&M on the floor.

I'm pleased to know that you shortened the steering shaft without incident - I have the know-how and wherewithal to do that - just needed to know if it had been done it before (I LOVE this forum!!) All that you said you did I can do and will do. Which is what I planned on doing all along unless someone came along and told me what a big weiner I was.

Measure twice, cut once, good to go. I can only assume that I can likewise shorten the housing as well using a chop saw since I do not have a spare column (I really oughtta go get a tilt - previous thread!)

 

Jason,

Does 73 column you have have Adjustable bearing/bushing at the bottom? If so I do just what you & Ed are talking about. Use chop saw to keep it all square to itself.

I assume you know about scribing pieces, right? I always scribe pieces I part so when I reassemble I can realign correctly using my scribed mark as the reference.

I'd cut shaft at bottom myself, so I can slide it through bearings/ bushings. If you cut it anywhere else you'll not be able to reinstall it again. The weld, or collar if you decide to sleeve it will stop you.

Also I have no problem altering postion/ placement of column support bracket to suit my needs. Harness is inside mast jacket anyway, right?. So what does it matter?.[none!]

What matters is wheel spline to turn signal mtg plate distance. if that relative distance changes you could have cancel or bind up problems later. That's why I'd cut bottoms of shaft & mid point of jacket without hesitation, after I was sure I had "layout right" for bottom mast bearing/ bushing. Another thing, since I want to get adjustable bottom mast bearing, I'd part my mast jacket in middle someplace so it ends up inside, under my dash where cut/ splice won't be seen, then collar my splice with "fall" from cut out, huh?.
If/ since yours is adjustable version, which 73 should be, close is good enough because it adjusts. . . . .

Oh Yeah, I'd stick with MIG or TIG re-weld to avoid corrupting sturctural integrity, like is so easy to do with stick or "Buzz Box".
But if you have the Equipment & ability, yeah sure do it.

Just my "chimes" on the matter, Jason.

FBp