Driver's side window woes
John
FWIW, all work is done on window in lowered position.
After screws holding metal panel on lower portion of door in place are backed out & panel removed you can "look / see" inside door itself. All you need to do to solve your problem is accessable from there. Glass should be sitting on Stop Brkt if it's still there.
The Nylon Rollers are available in many places.
Ones on HELP racks at most common Parts Houses work and cost less than FoMoCo rollers, but FoMoCo rollers seem to last longer. Either way both come with req'd spring clips, we fondly call them clover clips, you'll see why.
Rollers fit in a track like channel along bottom of glass. Regulator mechanism has two studs with reciever grooves cut in them. Clips fit in these grooves to lock & keep rollers in place.
Sometimes channel has it's back towards you, but it's still there and still the same "drill" anyhow. Clean studs & grooves, as well as channel, appropriately depending on their condition. This could range from a wipe with a rag & solvent, to wire brushing, or using Emory cloth or sand paper. It all depends like I said.
When clean, lubricate studs & channel/ track with some suitable silicone or other synthetic grease that's impervious to water/ moisture. We use silicone because "benzine ring" component of all petroleum based or lithium based grease attacks chemical structure of nylon/ plastic composite rollers are made of, thus hastening their decline. Especially in warmer or hotter climates. Rollers get "brittle" & break causing window to drop down inside the door, but you know that part already.
When reassembling, place nylon rollers in channel/ track with clips installed outside, toward studs. Adjust regulator by using window handle to raise/ lower studs so they can be aligned with rollers in channel/ track. Slide rollers & adjust regulator as req'd to get good precise alignment. when that's done start stud tip into roller opening. Next apply pressure to backside of regulator & channel/ track "smartly" to "Pop" stud into roller past spring clip. Repeat proceedure at next roller same way. I use my 20" (twenty inch) set of channel-lock pliers. That works great 4 me.
Try window operation, if satisfied, button it up & go for a ride!
FBp
Last edited by FORDBOYpete; Jan 25, 2004 at 11:26 AM.
As an aside, I found a new heater core (mine just started leaking) at http://www.partsamerica.com/ for less than $20.00. I know that some have asked where to find them.
I jury rigged the broken roller to allow it to be temporarily reattached to the regulator arm using the clover clips.
I ordered new rollers from Mac's as the parts store "Help" rollers (though listed as usable for my '66) were not the correct configuration.
Thanks again for all of your replies and help.





