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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Driver's side window woes

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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 01:06 AM
  #1  
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cashs66
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Angry Driver's side window woes

My door window had been working well until today when I shut the door and the window dropped from the down position to out of sight. Chilton's is no help. Does anyone have a procedure for repair?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 03:58 AM
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fordman428
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well obviously the window dropped out of the rollers, so i suppose you can take the door panel off and pick the window back up onto them, it takes lobger to get the door panel off than it does to get the window back in place, ive done it a few times on different vehicles. lucky it didnt break. good luck
 
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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 04:35 AM
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cash, There is a nylon roller and clip that likely come off. You likely need to replace the roller, and will find in the bottom of the door. Put it back on and keep the window up until you get one. Once you get the panel off and inside the door, it will wont take long to figure it out. You may be able to get a new roller in the help section at your favorite parts house.

John
 
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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 11:15 AM
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Wink Door Window Installation in a slick #101

Cash 66,

FWIW, all work is done on window in lowered position.

After screws holding metal panel on lower portion of door in place are backed out & panel removed you can "look / see" inside door itself. All you need to do to solve your problem is accessable from there. Glass should be sitting on Stop Brkt if it's still there.

The Nylon Rollers are available in many places.
Ones on HELP racks at most common Parts Houses work and cost less than FoMoCo rollers, but FoMoCo rollers seem to last longer. Either way both come with req'd spring clips, we fondly call them clover clips, you'll see why.

Rollers fit in a track like channel along bottom of glass. Regulator mechanism has two studs with reciever grooves cut in them. Clips fit in these grooves to lock & keep rollers in place.

Sometimes channel has it's back towards you, but it's still there and still the same "drill" anyhow. Clean studs & grooves, as well as channel, appropriately depending on their condition. This could range from a wipe with a rag & solvent, to wire brushing, or using Emory cloth or sand paper. It all depends like I said.

When clean, lubricate studs & channel/ track with some suitable silicone or other synthetic grease that's impervious to water/ moisture. We use silicone because "benzine ring" component of all petroleum based or lithium based grease attacks chemical structure of nylon/ plastic composite rollers are made of, thus hastening their decline. Especially in warmer or hotter climates. Rollers get "brittle" & break causing window to drop down inside the door, but you know that part already.

When reassembling, place nylon rollers in channel/ track with clips installed outside, toward studs. Adjust regulator by using window handle to raise/ lower studs so they can be aligned with rollers in channel/ track. Slide rollers & adjust regulator as req'd to get good precise alignment. when that's done start stud tip into roller opening. Next apply pressure to backside of regulator & channel/ track "smartly" to "Pop" stud into roller past spring clip. Repeat proceedure at next roller same way. I use my 20" (twenty inch) set of channel-lock pliers. That works great 4 me.

Try window operation, if satisfied, button it up & go for a ride!

FBp
 

Last edited by FORDBOYpete; Jan 25, 2004 at 11:26 AM.
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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 02:11 PM
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cashs66
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Thanks & Found Heater Core

Wow. Great response(s). Looks like a doable task. Thank you all.
As an aside, I found a new heater core (mine just started leaking) at http://www.partsamerica.com/ for less than $20.00. I know that some have asked where to find them.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2004 | 08:08 PM
  #6  
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My roller had indeed broken and had fallen off the regulator arm. The problem was apparently caused by the forward nut falling off of the forward window channel bracket (bracket at the bottom of the channel) which caused the rivets (that attach the bracket to the channel) to break. This put stress on the roller and the ears that retain the "clover clips" broke off the roller.
I jury rigged the broken roller to allow it to be temporarily reattached to the regulator arm using the clover clips.
I ordered new rollers from Mac's as the parts store "Help" rollers (though listed as usable for my '66) were not the correct configuration.
Thanks again for all of your replies and help.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2004 | 11:08 AM
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Thumbs up

Good Deal ! Glad you got it worked out. FBp
 
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