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Ball joint replacement - NEED HELP!

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Old Jan 26, 2004 | 04:18 PM
  #1  
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Ball joint replacement - NEED HELP!

Vehicle is a 98 Navigator:

My lower ball joints need to be replaced. I have the new ones and went to replace them but got stuck:

The ball joint is easy to seperate from the hub, the problem is it doesn't appear you can pull the lower control arm away from the ball joint unless you either:

1 - Remove the lower control arm - I am a little leary of that since the torsion bar, shock, and air bags are connected to it.

2 - Pull the axle half away from the hub - I hate doing that! I have had them either start leaking grease or go bad after doing it before (different vehicle).

3 - Other???? Something I missed?????

Anyway, if you can help I would appreciate it. What is funny is I have the service CD for my truck and it doesn't have a thing about replacing the ball joints!

Ford wants $506 in labor to do it!
 
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Old Jan 26, 2004 | 05:08 PM
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My service CD says the control arm and ball joint is replaced as a "unit" although I had mine done (ball joints only) at a shop a few months ago under warranty and it was about a $600 operation.

I had a popping noise up front that was diagnosed as bad joints, however the ball joint replacement didn't fix. At least I got to use my extended warranty.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2004 | 05:20 PM
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I called Sears Automotive and they said they would do the replacement for $79.95 / side (plus ball joint, they won't use mine). I am waiting for a price on the ball joint, if it is reasonable I will have them do it. It is WAY too cold here to be working in the garage.... bigmattxxl says it's ok to pay for work in the cold
 
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Old Jan 26, 2004 | 06:03 PM
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I don't think we can believe anything bigmattxxl says anymore jk
 
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Old Jan 27, 2004 | 11:56 AM
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Well, BigMattXXL wins (and he isn't even reading this post). I have wimped out and paid Sears to do the job. The sad part is as soon as I get the truck home I am going to jack it up, pull the tires, and make sure they did it right!
 
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Old Jan 27, 2004 | 11:15 PM
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Originally posted by itlkick
Well, BigMattXXL wins (and he isn't even reading this post). I have wimped out and paid Sears to do the job. The sad part is as soon as I get the truck home I am going to jack it up, pull the tires, and make sure they did it right!
You should know by now that I read everything. I'm like herpes - just because you can't see doesn't mean I'm not there

You should be ok, but I'd still check it myself. Paranoid like that.

As far as replacing the whole thing as a unit - I think it's the shadiest move any motor company can pull on its customers.

I think Dodge does the same thing - ball joint goes out, you buy a whole control arm

In my experience, the aftermarket replacement parts (which are technically not supposed to exist) work just fine. In your case, the mechanic gives the ball joint a good workout with an air chisel. If I'm not mistaken, there are little metal "fingers" that hold the ball joint in, making it irreplaceable (or am I thinking of the Dodge setup? Who knows...).

Either way, I would have faith in the mechanic.

XXL
 
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Old Jan 27, 2004 | 11:21 PM
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Originally posted by mistercmk
I don't think we can believe anything bigmattxxl says anymore jk
I sold my Expedition today for a Honda civic. It's very dope. 19" rims and the exhaust is sooooooooo loud it has to be doing something for the performance. It's also got a Takabushi-super-funky-****-chung-akebono-yoko-ono cold air intake.

The wing on the back is HUGE. This thing MUST be generating at least 137 horses - the wing doesn't lie. You can't fool physics.

5 point seatbelt harnesses, baby - that's how much raw power this thing kicks out.

Now if you'll excuse me, I have to go cruise the mall.

XXL
 
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Old Jan 28, 2004 | 06:31 AM
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LOL!
 
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