I have a '97 f150 super cab 3 dr with a
4.6 l engine,
3.55 rear axle ratio
class III towing tow package that includes a
7-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness,
Class III Frame Mounted Hitch,
Super Engine Cooling MAX,
Auxiliary Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler,
130 Amp. Alternator and
HD 78 Amp.-hr. Battery.

Now for my questions.

1: I bought the truck used and it came with oversized tires (not original). What performance declines do the oversized tires cause? ie lower gas mileage, trouble with pulling, I have a 19' travel trailer that I pull with it. I know the spedometer is off becuase of them and I have a pretty good idea as to how fast the spedometer reads as to my actual speed. No tickets yet.

2: I have about 75,000 miles on it so I'm pretty sure the fuel filter is in need of replacement. Where is the filter? I have looked in the engine compartment to no avail so I'm guessing it is back next to the fuel tank. Is this something that an averege person can tackle. The mechanic wanted $80, seems a little steep for a part that cost under $15.

3: I am having the front breaks replaced, did the back one 3 years ago. The mechanics that I have talked to say the rotors can be put on the lathe if they can get them off but they normally have to beat them off ,in ford trucks, with a sledge hammer. Is that normal, or are they feeding me a line to get another $200 out of me?

4: I am going to replace the spark plugs this spring, since reading several post it sounds like a several hour job so I will wait till it warms up a little. Is there a particular type that will help with horsepower when towing. I am engine illiterate, I can do basic maintence but I'm not sure how each piece interact to effect performance.

5: And finally, what can I do to improve towing performance? The trailer and truck, even when fully loaded with water and everything, weight around 9,500 pounds. Well under the max of 11,500, according to ford. But it still seems to have problems when towing up long grades, 3/4 mile or better. That isn't a big problem around central iowa there are a few but not that many but we want to take it to the black hills in the Dakotas this summer and I hear there are a few more hill there.

Thanks for any input

DDNwolff

 

Welcome to the forum

I will try to answer the best that I can.

1) The oversized tires will reduce gear multiplication which may slightly increase gas mileage but will hurt you in the towing department. A programer will calibrate the speedo for the different tire size.

2) As long as you relieve the fuel pressure before removing the filter, you should be ok. I would go by your local auto parts store and pick up a ford fuel line tool. They don't cost a lot and you will need it to remove the lines from the filter.
It should be located on the drivers side framerail.

3) I haven't done the brakes on my 2001 yet, but I have read posts here about them not wanting to come off because they rust to the hub.
If you are having brakes put on by someone else and the rotors only need to be turned, I know that Sears can turn them on the vehicle. Other shops may be able to too.

4) Only use Motorcraft double platinum or Autolite double platinum plugs. They are of the best quality and will last you another 100,000 miles. Also only use Motorcraft oil filters, they have the best anti-drainback valves to help prevent the oil from running back into the pan when the engine is off.

5) You can put a performance Cat-Back exhaust on it such as a Flowmaster or Dynomax.
A good chip or programmer (available at our online store at the top of the screen) will let you adjust power, tranny shifts etc.

My 5.4L doesn't like hills with a trailer either. It is best to lock out OD when pulling hills. The engine stays in it's peak powerband and it is easier on the tranny.

Jimmy

 

Your truck is an exact identical setup of mine, same engine, gears, etc...

1: How oversized are we talking? My truck came from the factory with 255/70/16 that i later swapped to 265/75 after my lift kit, I can't burn out anymore but gas milage did improve, despite the claims I've read where it should decrease due to weight, but I've always thought tires were unsprung weight? Now my dad's truck has 3.08 gears and came with 235/75 tires, I don't think he'd see gas milage improve with larger tires due to the gears. The only performance decline I noticed with larger tires on mine is now the inability to burn out without using brakes.

2: Definitly a do it yourself job, you'll also need to fuel filter line release tool which is about $5, the filter is under the driver's side door on the inside frame rail. Easiest way to releive fuel system pressure is to pull back the plastic kick panel by the passenger side door, below the glove box, there should even be something there that says "Fuel Reset switch". Once you pull back the panel, locate the switch (It's black with a rubber press button top) and unhook the cable to it. Then try to start the truck a few times, it should just crank and not actually run, done this twice now and it works for me. Be warned though, even with the fuel system pressure releived the filter still holds a LOT of gas, possibly a pint, take extra rags and use a lot of caution.

3: Beat them off? I hope not, I watch them pull mine off for my suspension lift, they pulled the dust cap on the rotor, pulled the cotter pin, took off the nut, and the whole rotor just slid right off with the bearing in place. I'm an extremely novice mechanic and replacing the front brakes on my truck was a 20 minute job, both sides combined. I didn't have to have my rotors turned though.

4: I've always heard 4.6's don't like anything else other than Motorcraft plugs and wires, but I'm running Motorcraft plugs along with Borg Werner Supermax 8mm wires with no probs for at least 40k miles now. It is a tough job though, those plugs are pretty deep to get to.

 

The 2wd trucks don't have the front rotor removal problem, it's the 4x4's with the slip on rotors that get stuck.
Jimmy

 

man...I am always late on the questions i know the answers to...I second all of the above for what thats worth...

 

The tires that came with the truck were 235/70/16 and it now has 265/75/16. It thows my spedometer off by about 5 miles an hour at 55 on the spedometer ie. actual speed is 60 when it reads 55.

I won't need new tires for at least another year(Hopefully) so I will look at changing them at that point, However I do live about 3 miles on gravel so it might be sooner. Just not sure what size I will go to at that point.

A guy at work recommended putting in a k & N air filter to improve performance and mileage. Are these really worth the price tag, O'Reilly $50+? Or are the Motorcraft air filters just as good?

Thanks for the feedback, this is a great forum.

 

1.) Depending on the gear ratio and original tire size, you may not notice any performance decline. My truck has 245/75's on it now, and I am going up to 285/75s this spring (or sooner) on a set of American Eagle 589's (16X8). My speedometer is off 10% @ 65MPH. When I get the tires, I am going to try and get the guys at the dealer to reprogram my speedo without having an actual service appt. (I got connections!!!)
2.) When it warms up, I think I'm gonna change my fuel filter too. I need to try and stop the pinging. (occasional, but still there). next step is to open up the exhaust with a set of flowmasters
3.) When I put my new CV boot on, I could not get my rotor off. I had another mechanic friend tell me horror stories of cutting the rotors off an expy
4.) I changed mine with motorcraft plugs this winter. Left the wires alone, and got a 2-3MPG increase
5.) I personally would start with a flowmaster cat back exhaust. I have heard of people ruining mass airflow sensors with the oil in the k&n. Makes me skittish to get one.

If you decide to lift the vehicle and put even larger tires on, I would reccommend a gear change, probably to 4.10. When I lift mine and get bigger tires, I will most likely end up switching to 4.10s.