Well, while more hp could certainly be found with a different intake/carb combo, I would probably keep your current setup with what you use this engine for. I'd say its better suited for a dd/hauler.

 

What combo do you have in your 460 to get 600 HP?

 

Granted, thats according to desktop dyno so theres room for error. But dd made it out to be just over 600 horse and torque. Obviously thats at the flywheel. Anyways, my combo:

460 stroked/bored to 512 ci, JE pistons with comp @10.8:1 max ported/ slightly milled Dove heads with the oversized ss valves (Scott J. at Reincarnation Auto is the MAN...the heads wail), harland sharp roller rockers, Holley HP 970 race carb, 1" open spacer on ported stealth cj...would've gone victor jr. 'cept for the vehicle weight, custom grind comp cam at 243/253 @.050 .623/.640 lift 112 lc, L&L headers into 3" exhaust which I run open when I drag, eagle rods, and your basic odds and ends like the pan evac setup. All that and I can still pul 10" of vacuum at idle. Thing pulls to 6k in the mud no problems. Only thing I might have done different is gone with the victor jr but I probably made the right choice with my weight.

 

Proeliator, thanks for your reply. Now comes the questions. If I step up on other components won't that take me away from pump gas? I want to go as far as I can and still run pump gas. Like I said on the parts I listed, "I was only thinking" trying to start with some sort of a plan. For a off-road, street, and towing I was hoping to build a low end tq monster. I guess thats why I said a mild truck cam. If I get a cam higher than the 220-230 range doesn't it cause problems on the street?

 

514FORD, If a mild truck cam is worthless what would be your pick to run this engine on pump gas? What would be a better design than L&L's? Can't I stoke this thing and use milder parts for street use? I was thinking 514 cubes would produce alot more hp/tq than a 30 over engine. What do you think the numbers would be? Wish I had a desktop dyno to run different combo's, not sure where to buy one.

 

You can certainly stroke if for the extra torque and hp, and still keep it a milder engine for towing dd duty. Nothing wrong with that at all. I think what we were leaning towards was that a stroker likes to consume ALLOT of cfm, and for that you need the bigger cam to motivate the valves to suck all that air/fuel goodness down through the intake/carb. With your desired usuage in mind, I would lean towards milder than wilder, but there also isn't much sense putting money into a nice stroker and then castrating the top end. You can go with a really healthy cam and the only "problems" you have is a lumpier idle, lower vacuum, and a softer lower end. BUT, a stroked 460 makes so much torque this loss is minimal untill you go with a really big cam like I did. 'Course, I don't tow, I mud drag/bog and I've got a 2500rpm torque converter. Point up, you can step up to a "medium" cam with zero worries. Finally, stepping up your other components won't get you away from pump gas unless you do something like mill your heads or put in pop up pistons (which most 385 racers tell me these heads don't like anyways). Most of these engines can tolerate up to 10.5:1 compression without detonation on premium, provided you haven't gone crazy with your timing. Since you'll be towing I'd keep it 9.5:1 which will still be a decent compression ratio but plenty safe. Heck, you can run that on regular. Anyways, hope that helped. Since you are in the beginning stages of building your engine it might not hurt to buy desktop dyno...its kinda fun to play with and a helpfull tool. When you get the rest of your components matched call one of the cam techlines...they have people there just waiting to match one of their cams with your combination. Have fun!

 

Like pro said, a very mild cam will be like castrating a stroker. A 514(or 521) can take a fairly healthy cam before it becomes noticable. I had a comp cams extreme 4x4 cam X4270H and I loved it, but you could tell it was there. Idled a little rough, but the power was there. No problems on pump gas. My crane hyd roller idles at 900 rpm smooth and makes ok power, but I feel like I kind of pussed out because I think I could make more power with a little hotter cam and still have daily drivability and run 91 oct pump gas(is there any other thing?) I am by no means an expert, but I wouldn't go with much less than a 220-225 duration cam. Maybe look at the comp X4262H(one step below what I had). For the 79 and earlier trucks L&L's are awsome(installed on friends truck)!! For My 86 I didn't care for the design much(not equal leangth, kind of cramped), but they were the best made ones I could find and have held up extremely well and look like new after quite a few years. Hope this helped.

 

Thanks again guys, I do want a nice choppy cam just don't know how far I can push it on pump gas. Local shops were saying to stay in that 220-230 range. If the stroker can take more cam and still run on pump gas thats a good thing. I do have a sniffer test in Maryland to deal with, I forgot to bring that up earlier. My truck is a non-cat for the factory so headers won't be a problem. As for the cfm with the carb. I didn't know for sure what was right.

 

Hopefully the title got your attention. What are your suggestions for building a budget stroker? I know it sounds like a contradiction ut how about some suggestions? Anyone with used parts or know where to find them? Suggestion on blocks and budget heads? My friend has a Chevy short box with a "corvette" 350 in it. Funny how any swaped engine happens to be out of a corvette. But it soes run hard (since I helped him tune it up), And I want to build an 81 stepside to walk all over him in a big way since his truck is unbeatable. Any help or suggestions guys?

Jack

 

zzcharger, I don't know of a budget stroker for the 460. I'm sure someone around here knows how to do it. Dan