Suspention replacement/air suspension
I have a 99 xlt 4x4 air suspension expedition with 3" body lift and I'm planning on changing the front suspension with aftermarket suspension. Has anyone done this?
2 problems
1- what suspension can I use? I heard I can use Rancho 9000. Is this possible? anything better?
2- how do I turn the air suspension off? Will it cause problems? Is there an online diagram I can find? Do I plug the hoses?
I tried old man emu before but the people who installed it didn't put the right ones on. Anyway it dipped a few inches and I decided to keep my front's oem and kept the rears, problem now is my oem's need to be replaced because of a leak. I don't want oem's anymore.
Please I need help
Thanks
Thanks
Thanks
Is there another replacement shock I can use? Then just plug/fool the front suspension? My biggest concern is if I replace the front shock with conventional shocks will there be a problem because I don't have a coil spring? Will I have the max hieght? And can I fool the air suspension to only ativate the rear airbags? Anyone done this before?
Thanks
There was a thread recently, though, that detailed the process of converting a LLS Expedition to standard suspension.
Many of us (myself included) have decided that if the LLS goes belly up, then the conversion is the way to go (rather than fix the LLS).
EDIT: The main problem is this. You have 4 "air shocks" - two airbags in the rear (to act as springs) and 2 air shocks up front (to act as shocks). There are 2 height sensors, front and rear. The height sensors tell the compressor which shocks to pump up and how much. If you replace the front air shocks with standard ones, then either the compressor is going to run forever (trying to pump up the shocks, which are not there) or you can unplug the compressor (but the springs will deflate. Totally undriveable).
Your options are to either replace the front airshocks from Ford or replace the whole suspension system (not as hard as it sounds - 2 front shocks, to rear springs. Done)
According to the thread about converting the suspension, the total cost was around $300. If I were in your situation, I'd bite the bullet and convert the whole thing. It's cheaper and the old style springs 'n shocks setup will never leave you stranded.
EDIT #2: Upon further thought, you might be able to convert your LLS to rear-only by eliminating the front sensor (disconnect the electrical connector) and replacing the air shocks with standard gas shocks. Don't take my word for this; hopefully our collective thinktank can chime in and help us out (Farmlaw, PaulC - you guys there?)
I don't know if there are any real differences between the rear-air and 4wheel air systems (hopefully, the 4wheel air system is just a "rear-air" system with some bolt-ons)
XXL
Last edited by BigMattXXL; Jan 21, 2004 at 11:43 PM.
I was thinking of using the shocks he mention, but keeping my rear bags active. That way in towing or heavy load, my truck won't look so wierd. Could I fool the sensor in front to think it's on max/ride level, that way it would only air the back? Can I plug the front hoses?
In theory it should work. right?
Last edited by Voksboy; Jan 21, 2004 at 11:49 PM.
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Yes you can remove the front air shocks and install any 1966 Ford Bronco (early serial number) REAR shocks, I listed numerous part numbers in a prior thread. I used the NAPA's, which are MONROE.
Remember:
1) You will have to find an effective way to plug the air lines running to both front shocks, I would suggest plugging the single master line before it "T's" to both shocks. Try using an exact size nail or rivet, or melting the plastic line shut. You never want it to leak, and cause the rear bags to deflate (they will).
2) DO NOT remove the front ride height sensor on the drivers side upper control "A" arm. This will keep you from getting a CHK SUSP light.
3) You will need to get a high speed die grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut the metal shank segment of the old air-shocks in half to remove easily. Trying to remove normally takes too long.
4) Your front ride height will not change, as that height is controlled by your torsion bar adjustment bolts. But this is the time that if you want, you can set your truck to a different height by setting the rear height sensor adjuster on its slotted bracket to a higher or lower setting, your preference, and then adjust BOTH front torsion bars EVENLY to match the rear height when pumped up. A front-end alignment may be required if you decide to really lift or slam your Expy.
!!!!! Before doing any work, shut off the AIR SUSP switch under the R/H kick panel.
Remind you, I did not do this exact mod EVER, but after having my Expy's system gutted, and understanding how it works, it should work fine.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I'm attempting to keep all the big brains in my forum so I can continually brag about the unstoppable Expedition-related thinktank I can call upon

Between you, Buzzard, PaulC, and Farmlaw and TSDRallyer I believe we could successfully assume total control of Ford's R/D department

XXL
Thanks
Here are useful links of other threads
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=192025
http://www.fordtrucks.com/forums/sho...hreadid=193492
Last edited by Voksboy; Jan 22, 2004 at 08:56 PM.
Lama
One thing though. My pump still goes on ever now and then. I'm trying to cheat the sensor in thinking it's on ride hieght. As far a leaks I don't have any, I used a rivet to plug the hose and lot's of electric tape. Works like a charm.
Another option I've always thought about was to have selective LLS. How? Well, I would remove the air-susp switch from the lower pass kickpanel (it is a nice switch held in with a clip back), then I would lengthen the wires that connect to the switch, make them long enough to reach to the drives side of the center console. Mount the switch on the side of the center console, by the map pockets (or anywhere you like). Then, use the switch WHEN YOU WANT. Lets say you get the rig all pumped up, okay, shut the switch off. Nothing will happen, except, you WILL get a CHK SUSP light. We will deal with that later (I hope).
Now belive me, because I've done it, you can drive your expy for 3 weeks, and the rear will not sag. After about three weeks, it will need a charge of air, so, turn the switch on. Hook up a trailer? Turn it on, and the back will lift to match trailer weight. Done towing, unhook trailer, turn switch on, let itself lower. What you will gain is no more constant running of compressor, and you will lose the park "SQUAT" function.
Now, what is needed to make this function complete is if some Expy or Ford wiring guru could tell us what wire to cut under the dash that would kill the CHK SUSP light. Maybe someone on this board has a factory wiring diagram book, and could locate the wire and post it. The light means nothing, and one could live with it on, but it is a nusiance.
Just an idea, hey, at least we have identified front shocks that fit prior LLS equipped Expy's. Thats quite a feat. Also the Strutmasters rear spring kits are working good.
Anyone who has a EXPY wiring diagram manual, please tell us what wire to clip to kill CHK SUSP light. Thanks!!!!
What turns the pump on? The sensor. If you remove the sensor then the check suspension will go on. So what to do? I streached the sensor/shock and tie it down, well it worked a bit but still the pump would go on even now and then. This is the funny part after using it today I thought I broke the sensor cause the tie down slip and yank the shock/sensor to much. At least I thought it did
The bar that guides the sensor popped out of it socket (which I never knew was there, which you can't see). So the sensor is still functional but the bar that activates the sensor isn't thus the pump won't go on yet the check suspension won't go on either. So yank the sensor/shock as long as possible then you'll feel the guide(bar) pop out os the socket and then tie it down (using tie downs) to a wire or hose and that's it.
The shock/sensor in the rear still works and ativates the pump when necessary.
I'll try to post a pic.


