Eric, let me get with the guys in my area and see if any of them know of any engine rebuilders who can use what I already have. But if I can find one who can rebuild my engine, I want the new Edelbrock performer 400 cam kit, and the Edelbrock head rebuild kit. That will make my engine complete.

 

Eric, one quick note. I just got off the phone with Jasper Engine company and Jason said that they can for 10% extra, take my engine and rebuild it per your request. He said instead of sending my engine down an assembly line, it will be given to one tech and that one person will teardown engine, mark parts and go through the process of rebuild using the engines original hard parts. And he said it would be no trouble to make said engine a high performance engine. It's just a couple of different parts but otherwise another typical rebuild. With that, I still get the 3yr/75K warranty. The price for normal Ford 400 high performance is $2200 dollars and another $200 for custom rebuild brings price to $2400 dollars. I have to use their camshaft and other internal parts but they will allow Edelbrock intake and carb. The price is a little high but the warranty can't be beat. All internal parts except crank, rods are brand spanking new never used before. Even heads are ported and all brand new parts go into new heads. Block will be bored out to next higher size, and pistons are flatter than stock. Churning out over 275Hp, and over 300+Hp with my Edelbrock stuff.

Just think, once I get all this work done, then all I need is a 70's model F250 rolling chassis and put my engine, and transmission in the truck and have one nice piece of equipment. Now thats Ford tough.

 

Can you swap out the cam & lifters later and still keep the warranty? By using their cam grind they can limit the stress on the engine components so they might not want to allow a cam change. The cam is the heart of the engine, it determines how all the other parts perform.

 

man those guys @ jasper seen you comin thats a C6 trans mission in that boat and you could put nitrous on that motor and not hurt that trans unless your going to run slicks with nitrous

 

Thats with their components Eric, no internal changes allowed during warranty period.

Kkmart, the criteria I gave the technician was as follows. Based upon a trip I made just over a year ago, I pulled out of Las Vegas and went south to Laughlin, NV and then east to Arizona. Back then I was in my new full-size GMC pickup with the Vortec engine. Back of the truck was loaded in addition to fiberglass topper, and I was pulling a tandem axle trailer. Getting from Las Vegas to Laughlin was difficult but the hardest part was pulling east out of Laughlin. Laughlin is at 500' ASL and climbing that first mountain proved to be the hardest task leveling out at over 3000' ASL. Mind you, this was not a mild rise but rather straight out climb. I pulled that hill in second gear, accelerator fully floored and could only manage 5 mph. Half way up, the truck overheated. This was a new truck. I got passed by semi trucks.

So in time after this change, I want to simulate the conditions that existed that day with the same trailer and as close to weight conditions as I can get which was near 15,000#. If I keep this drivetrain, I want it to have the ability to pull heavy trailer. As said earlier, if I can find a 1970's model F250 rolling chassis in excellent condition, I am concidering moving the entire drivetrain to the new chassis and put a stock drivetrain back into the wagon and selling it.

I have read on this forum and other places that the Ford 400 engine when setup right will out pull the 429, and 460 gas engines due to longer stroke. So I'm gonna place the 400/V8 in the same class of engine that the 300/L6 belongs. Though I have written this statement, it is also true that I have not researched that data, and cannot at this time verify it's truthfullness. But as a diesel man, it sounds right. The 429/V8 engine I have had major problems with timing gear in the past and refuse to use that engine anymore. I have no experience with the 460/V8 engine. Only the fact that I've understood that the 400/V8 uses longer rods which provide better bottom end torque.

I used to own a Chevy truck that had the 292/L6 engine. I put that engine through hell and it kept coming back for more. And the Ford 300/L6 is a proven power house too because before Cummins came out with the B-series engines, UPS used the 300 engine exclusively. And those engines performed without fail.

My dream truck one day would be a 1979 Ford F250/350 Ranger full-size, with the Cummins B-series turbocharged 6 cylinder engine and the Allison automatic transmission. I like the looks of the 1979. I want to build a truck one day that is virtually indestructable.

Can't blame a man for dreaming heh.

 

indyjames500-

-Guys, you don't need to quote whole posts with this few people -Admin

well im surprised you did not burn up the trans in that new truck
because it is a peice of junk compared to a C6 trans and any diesel willout pull a gas motor you should know that turbo charged or not I have an 85 f 250 2wheel drive 4 speed 7.3 diesel non turbo and it pulls like a bull I have owned fords since i have been driving I know them inside and out im 40 years old
so I have some experience I used to rebuild and remachine engines and regrind cranks

you need to make sure your turning your distributor the right way
it is not a chevy and turns the opposite direction to much timing on these fords will keep the motor from turning over also you need to double check your firing order and make sure they are in their right order
now i will tell you how to time a ford and i have never told no one this because it works so good fords like alot of initial timing
unplug that vacum advance then loosen the distributer hold down to a point to where you can turn the distributor but keep it snug enough so it will not turn on it's own now start the motor or have someone their to help and start the motor you stand to the side of the carand rev the motor to around 2500 rpm or alittle more move the distributor back and for and listen when the motor sounds smooth and does not shake and sounds like it's not lugging then leave the timing there and snug down the hold down now with the motor still reved up connect the vacum advance if the motor starts shaking and missing out then you need to disconnect it and leave it disconnected throw the timing light away if you hear a little pinging then lift the cap up and see wich way the rotor is turning when the motor is turned over [yes disconnect the coil wire when you do this or you will get shocked ] now move distributor the same direction as the rotor turns this will retard the timing you do not have to move very much to get it right
you can use the timing light after you get it set right to see where it is set for future settings if you want but thats it
I have set timing on hundreds of motors in my life and i threw my timing light away years ago i can listen to any motor and set the timing if you set the timing on this motor to the factory specs it runs like a dog but if you get it set to high it will also crank over very hard the best way is to have the disrib recurved but it is hard to find someone who knows the right way to set the timing curve on a ford

I live north of indy i also have semis

 

Kkmart, I would like to email you privately but you have that function turned off. I live 1/2 mile N of the Greenwood Park Mall. How far N of Indy do you live? I know entire state of Indiana so I've probably past your home thousands of times. I'd like to bring car to you and let you see for yourself whats going on.

You do not have the ability to email other members yet so you won't be able to contact me. If you change the setting on your profile and enable contact from other members long enough for me to enter my private email addy then you can change it back.

Since I now have electronic ignition, I have the yellow wire off of the distributor for hooking up a tachometer. I think it would be best to pull and reset distributor first and then reset timing. Maybe we could look at oil pressure problem too to see if the problem is in the pump drive gear, the pump itself, or the main bearings. I am also interested in the health of the timing gear and chain too.

The only thing I know of that ties together timing and oil pressure is the camshaft itself. Maybe you might be able to tell if these are two seperate problems or a single problem tied to a single part failure. If engine needs to be gone through, I'd like to keep it running until it's warm enough outside to take it out of service. I have a motorcycle I can ride when it's warmer. My new trucking company is in Pendleton, IN. That's 40 miles one-way from where I live, and I have no-where in my area that I live in that permits tractor trailer parking except for the truckstop down at exit 99. Thats where my brother parks his semi for downtime. But then someone here has to go pick him up.

You drive semi's, you know what I'm talking about.

 

Check around, you can find a shop or someone with a distributor machine. If you have a few "tools" you can rig one up yourself.

 

I turned on the email option I live 10 miles north of lebanon
exit 146 I 65

 

Thanks Kkmart. You may now turn off your email option if you wish. I have sent you an email with my information. Jim B.

 

Guys, I have made a temporary change to my engine which will keep it going a couple more months and then I'm pulling it. There will be no more discussion from me about this crap motor. I will answer question from members about my experience.

I have found my replacement engine and will save back the money so I can buy it. It's a high-performance Ford 400/V8 325Hp. The machine shop is S & S out of Washington state. The option only costs $1690 dollars. It incorporates everything that I have read about on FTE forums. I will mount this engine in my car long enough until I can find a mint condition 1979 Ford F250 rolling chassis with 4 X 2 drive, setup for C6 transmission.

On the distributor swap out I performed last year from points to electronic, well I'm taking that back out and putting my original points distributor back in with the Pertronix upgrade. I didn't know about Pertronix until yesterday. But I like what I've learned.

I'm sorry for the attitude but I'm sick of my engine, and will be glad to see it gone. I'm tired of playing catch me games.